Help to determine possible horse power!
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Help to determine possible horse power!
I have a matching number 77, L82. I removed the engine and replaced it with a beefed up 350 ci engine but I need help trying to figure out how much more horse power it will have over the original engine without having it put on a Dynamometer. Can anyone give me a rough idea based on the parts installed in the engine? Please read the attached parts list.
#2
Pro
I have a matching number 77, L82. I removed the engine and replaced it with a beefed up 350 ci engine but I need help trying to figure out how much more horse power it will have over the original engine without having it put on a Dynamometer. Can anyone give me a rough idea based on the parts installed in the engine? Please read the attached parts list.
All of this is a complete SWAG though with no more info than what you have given.
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-14-2018)
#3
Race Director
Not really anyway to answer this with the info you gave. Without knowing the compression ratio and the specific cam info (could look this up) it could be just about anything. With that said, assuming a decent build, I would guess around 1hp/CI is a pretty normal amount these days. That would put your 350 engine at something in the neighborhood of 350-380 HP. That would put your new engine somewhere in the 150 hp more than stock range.
All of this is a complete SWAG though with no more info than what you have given.
All of this is a complete SWAG though with no more info than what you have given.
Lift .489 .476
Dur @ 50 235 249
DCR should be decent with that 67 abdc intake closing
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-14-2018)
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Confused
Not really anyway to answer this with the info you gave. Without knowing the compression ratio and the specific cam info (could look this up) it could be just about anything. With that said, assuming a decent build, I would guess around 1hp/CI is a pretty normal amount these days. That would put your 350 engine at something in the neighborhood of 350-380 HP. That would put your new engine somewhere in the 150 hp more than stock range.
All of this is a complete SWAG though with no more info than what you have given.
All of this is a complete SWAG though with no more info than what you have given.
Thanks again
ddhebert
#5
Pro
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-14-2018)
#7
I'd be VERY surprised if your motor is making much more than 300 with those heads. Stock, those heads barely flow 200 CFM, so they would take some pretty significant porting to even get up to Vortec-level flow. Heads and cam is where the power is made, you have a decent cam, but those heads are choking the motor (assuming they haven't had SIGNIFICANT port work to open them up)
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-14-2018)
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Posts: 13,654
Received 4,924 Likes
on
1,930 Posts
[QUOTE=ddhebert;1597791395]they seemed to think it would be in the neighborhood of 420 hp. /QUOTE]
Not a chance. With those heads and cam, you're maybe in the 320 - 350 range on a good day. I've dyno'd engines with the ****** Thumper cams, and that cam design gives up a a lot of potential power for the benefit of the sound. Combined with the low flow on those heads, getting power over the 300 mark would be pushing it.
Lars
Edit: I just saw mobird's post, and I think he's closer to the truth...
Not a chance. With those heads and cam, you're maybe in the 320 - 350 range on a good day. I've dyno'd engines with the ****** Thumper cams, and that cam design gives up a a lot of potential power for the benefit of the sound. Combined with the low flow on those heads, getting power over the 300 mark would be pushing it.
Lars
Edit: I just saw mobird's post, and I think he's closer to the truth...
Last edited by lars; 08-14-2018 at 05:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-14-2018)
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I'd be VERY surprised if your motor is making much more than 300 with those heads. Stock, those heads barely flow 200 CFM, so they would take some pretty significant porting to even get up to Vortec-level flow. Heads and cam is where the power is made, you have a decent cam, but those heads are choking the motor (assuming they haven't had SIGNIFICANT port work to open them up)
#10
Race Director
No. Vortec or better. AFR, Brodix, Patriot (whatever they are called these days.)
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-15-2018)
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-15-2018)
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Apr 2001
Location: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Posts: 5,928
Received 275 Likes
on
232 Posts
Cruise-In IX Veteran
I have a matching number 77, L82. I removed the engine and replaced it with a beefed up 350 ci engine but I need help trying to figure out how much more horse power it will have over the original engine without having it put on a Dynamometer. Can anyone give me a rough idea based on the parts installed in the engine? Please read the attached parts list.
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-15-2018)
#13
I have a matching number 77, L82. I removed the engine and replaced it with a beefed up 350 ci engine but I need help trying to figure out how much more horse power it will have over the original engine without having it put on a Dynamometer. Can anyone give me a rough idea based on the parts installed in the engine? Please read the attached parts list.
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-15-2018)
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (08-15-2018)
#15
Vortec heads can be had for around $500, they should be a decent improvement.
If you are going to go for aluminum heads, my vote is for the Jegs re-branded Profilers. They are $999 for the pair at Jegs, and they flow nearly the same as AFR heads of similar runner size. Those heads would be capable of getting you over the 400hp mark, though I would reccomend a different camshaft "while you're at it".
The following 2 users liked this post by mobird:
KNOT-HEAD (08-15-2018),
NewbVetteGuy (08-15-2018)
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. It seems, all bets are off concerning the beefed up engine I just bought. I finally found a mechanic shop that is knowledgeable about vintage cars. They are basically reworking everything that has previously been done to the car by the four so called mechanics I have had work on it. The last and worst thing is the new beefed up engine I bought from a private individual off of Craigslist was was poorly put together. I paid the person I bought it from to install it and that was an even worse mistake. Bottom line is the new crank shaft drifts about 1/4" after the engine has warmed up. The heads were supposed to have been reworked but when we pulled them we found they had not, also, the rocker arm mounting studs threads have been stripped so a stud puller may not work on removing them so they can be replaced. There are large gouges in one of the cylinder walls. It seem as though some metal fragments were left in the cylinder before the heads were installed or possibly a part of the valve or stripped off fragments from the rocker arm mounting studs fell in to the cylinder. Either way we have to start over from scratch. I brought my original matching number L82 engine to the shop with the intentions of swapping the high performance parts (approximately $1,800.00 worth) that were installed in the "junk" engine into it. Hopefully that engine is still strong enough to take the new Mother Thumper cam and matching valve springs. I also found a used 700r4 transmission to install in the car and had it re-worked bu a professional transmission shop. Hopefully that will not be a mistake too.
#17
Thanks guys. It seems, all bets are off concerning the beefed up engine I just bought. I finally found a mechanic shop that is knowledgeable about vintage cars. They are basically reworking everything that has previously been done to the car by the four so called mechanics I have had work on it. The last and worst thing is the new beefed up engine I bought from a private individual off of Craigslist was was poorly put together. I paid the person I bought it from to install it and that was an even worse mistake. Bottom line is the new crank shaft drifts about 1/4" after the engine has warmed up. The heads were supposed to have been reworked but when we pulled them we found they had not, also, the rocker arm mounting studs threads have been stripped so a stud puller may not work on removing them so they can be replaced. There are large gouges in one of the cylinder walls. It seem as though some metal fragments were left in the cylinder before the heads were installed or possibly a part of the valve or stripped off fragments from the rocker arm mounting studs fell in to the cylinder. Either way we have to start over from scratch. I brought my original matching number L82 engine to the shop with the intentions of swapping the high performance parts (approximately $1,800.00 worth) that were installed in the "junk" engine into it. Hopefully that engine is still strong enough to take the new Mother Thumper cam and matching valve springs. I also found a used 700r4 transmission to install in the car and had it re-worked bu a professional transmission shop. Hopefully that will not be a mistake too.
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (09-05-2018)
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (09-05-2018)
#19
Advanced
It's your car but something that has been said but for some reason you haven't acknowledged. YOU NEED TO DITCH YOUR ****** THUMPER CAM. You are leaving power on the table. Those cams are designed to impress posers that value sound over real power. I get that money is tight and this is an unexpected expense. We have all been there. It's entirely possible to reach your 420 horsepower goal, with the right head/cam combo. Not with what you have. Good luck with whatever you decide
The following users liked this post:
KNOT-HEAD (09-05-2018)
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
ddhebert