This might be a dumb question, but here it goes. If the number one piston is at top dead center on the exhaust stroke, which plug on the dist. cap would the roter be pointing to? I thought i had got my car fixed and was so happy until I went out to adjust the carb, and after looking at the timing again I am at my wits end. I am about to give up on getting it so I can drive it again.
Thanks for any help.
Larry

 

I am pretty sure it's suppose to point toward the number 1 cylinder.

here's a video on setting the timing.

 

#6 If it is pushing out the exhaust it is not firing. Number 6 is 180 away from #1

 

when AT TDC, it is in BETWEEN strokes. I assume you mean between exhaust and intake strokes. at that point, engine is firing on 6. 18436572. each piston is at the same height and direction as the cyl 4 numbers away from it. so you can see firing at 1 by looking in oil fill hole at 6 intake rocker. if showing tdc and rocker is just starting to move, you are firing on 1.

 

if you have dist at 1 and it is firing through the carb, you are 180 degrees out. if engine runs, you are close. turn distributor each way til it runs better. THEN get a light. if too advanced, it will run great, but burn pistons.

 

1843
6572

Cylinders are 'paired'. If one cylinder is at TDC there will always be another cylinder at TDC. 1/6 8/5 4/7 3/2 are the pairs.

Ex: If #1 is at TDC then #6 will be at TDC.

 

Thanks doug1 I followed Lars paper he sent me to find out if my balancer had siipped or not and set the timing at 16degrees before top dead center. i found mine had slipped about 2 in. I thought I had found the problem with the carb after I rebbuilt it. The power piston had poped up and the nedels were not down in the the jets. I got them were they were in them and started the car and it ran great. Because it ahd been running rich and would foul the plugs after afew minutes. The next day went to put the vacuum guage on it to set the idel mixture screws and was heart broken the car would not start. I messed with the timing because the guage said late timing. I am at my wits end on this thing. Sorry for going on and on.
Thanks again
Larry

 

4 cycles:
Suck
Squeeze
Bang
Blow.
You are 180* off don't cha know!

 

Did you pull the distributor?

No? Then your rotor will be pointing where it should.

 

Gordonm thanks for you help. I am fighting this thing.

 

Thanks derekderek for the info. Hope to figuer this problem out.

 

That's what were here for, is to help. Yeah, realized from some of the other responses that I didn't read your post close enough. The video is good, he talks about using a paper towel to know when number one cylinder is truly at TDC. Let us know when it's running great.

 

Thanks jim2527 I was not sure if it would be between 3 and 6 or right on one of them. it is driving me crazy.

 

TDC is usually stated as being at the firing point on the compression stroke. With engine set in that position, the distributor should have the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire contact.

With the engine set as you describe in your initial post, the rotor should be pointing at plug wire #6 contact.

 

With the piston at TDC (timing line on the balancer aligned with the timing mark on the timing tab) the #1 piston can be on either the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. If it's on the exhaust stroke, the distributor rotor will point to cylinder #6. You can actually set the ignition timing by clipping the timing light onto either the #1 or #6 plug wires, which is a nice thing to do on cars that have the battery on the passenger side of the car (to avoid running the timing light wires across the engine compartment).

Lars

 

Lars thanks for all you help in the past. I just sent a privet message to jim 2527 asking the question you just posted about the mark on the balancer. If it would be on the exhaust stroke. Mine was, also the rotor was on the number 6 at the dist. I just can't seem to get it running wright. One minute the timming is dead on , turn the car off strat it again and the timming shows late. I followed your paper, and set timing at 16 degreesadv. Now I am not sure if there is still a problem with the carb. The power piston had poped up whtn i rebuilt it. The nedels were not down in the jets. I had a problem with it running rich. When I fixed them it ran great. The next day went out to adjust the idel mixture screws, the car would not start, until poured a little gaas in the carb. it started fine and ran.

 

With timing changing when you shut down and restart, assuming the dizzy is clamped tight and not rotating, I'd suspect the timing chain is getting real sloppy. Or perhaps distributor bushings are worn out or balancer still slipping. Something is moving.

Here are pics of the cam gear I pulled out of my 67 CJ5. Dauntless V6 which is a Buick oddfire 225.

That was the most wear I've even seen on a timing set. The chain was so loose that when pinched at center there was maybe an inch between the sides.

The jeep actually ran really good like that though a little lacking on power. Once I replaced the timing set it ran like garbage. After a lot of frustration, ending up figuring that when the PO did a tuneup, he put on an even fire distributor cap. Probably an auto parts store screwup. Until I brought them part numbers, they couldn't get me the right cap. Lots of confusion out there with the odd fire motors.

My point is that problems can be multifaceted (espicially with old stuff) and more importantly, you can't assume anything that's been done before was done right. Even master mechanics make mistakes but I'm more referring to PO's.

Chasing this kind of thing down sucks but after you figure it out, it's very rewarding. Good luck and stay sane!

 

Oh gosh trz, that's crazy! I sure hope this isn't his problem.

 

I'd check that one of the advance mechanisms isn't sticking.

 

#6

Dom