'69 427 Bent Push Rod
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 16
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
Have you done bearing and crank work, or are you just taking this motor to somebody? T1028. Tonowanda plant. Oct 28th. The january 06 063 heads are 3 months too young for your build date. Doesnt mean they are not worth the money. But can't be used in a "numbers matching" scenario.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 16
Have you done bearing and crank work, or are you just taking this motor to somebody? T1028. Tonowanda plant. Oct 28th. The january 06 063 heads are 3 months too young for your build date. Doesnt mean they are not worth the money. But can't be used in a "numbers matching" scenario.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 16
Have you done bearing and crank work, or are you just taking this motor to somebody? T1028. Tonowanda plant. Oct 28th. The january 06 063 heads are 3 months too young for your build date. Doesnt mean they are not worth the money. But can't be used in a "numbers matching" scenario.
what date code range can I consider for the heads?
Last edited by Z06CE; Mar 24, 2019 at 09:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 16
How does the clutch pivot arm that connects to the block and frame removed?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
There is a 3/8 stud in the end of the cross shaft (z-bar). 9/16 wrench on the outboard side-- loosen that nut and the stud will come up out of the slot in the frame bracket. The 3/8 stud is really a pivot ball in the end of the z-bar, but you can't really tell until you get it out. When that is out, the z-bar just pulls off the block side pivot.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 767
Likes: 74
From: Blaine MN
My 68 had a CE replacement block so I went non-period correct 460, I basically kept the 4-bolt block and upgraded everything else, forged lower end, h-beam rods, AFR 256 heads, studs top and bottom, custom Hyd roller cam, Alum rad, elec fans/controller etc. I kept it all on a spreadsheet so it is pretty close to all costs included (even little stuff). I had a HP goal of better than 550hp at crank with the Tri-power (made 560ish with Tri-power and just shy of 600 with a dart high rise sp/holley 850 combo un-tuned as we ran out of time on dyno). I had the Dyno/Mach. shop button up the bottom end, I did the rest.
I think you'll be really happy you opted to pull the motor. The chevelle forum is also a great resource for performance BB build info (this forum is great too). I'll be following to see what you end up doing.
I think you'll be really happy you opted to pull the motor. The chevelle forum is also a great resource for performance BB build info (this forum is great too). I'll be following to see what you end up doing.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 16
My 68 had a CE replacement block so I went non-period correct 460, I basically kept the 4-bolt block and upgraded everything else, forged lower end, h-beam rods, AFR 256 heads, studs top and bottom, custom Hyd roller cam, Alum rad, elec fans/controller etc. I kept it all on a spreadsheet so it is pretty close to all costs included (even little stuff). I had a HP goal of better than 550hp at crank with the Tri-power (made 560ish with Tri-power and just shy of 600 with a dart high rise sp/holley 850 combo un-tuned as we ran out of time on dyno). I had the Dyno/Mach. shop button up the bottom end, I did the rest.
I think you'll be really happy you opted to pull the motor. The chevelle forum is also a great resource for performance BB build info (this forum is great too). I'll be following to see what you end up doing.
I think you'll be really happy you opted to pull the motor. The chevelle forum is also a great resource for performance BB build info (this forum is great too). I'll be following to see what you end up doing.
I took the oil pan off today, looked up into to view the cylinders I see some scuffing at the bottom of the cylinder walls. Metal must have been circulating through the motor.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 16
Yes tiny slivers here and there in oil pan, Before I knew I had issues I changed oil and filter just after I purchased the car.
Hot a good look at the cylinder walls, some stuffing on at least 3 cylinder walls. Not deep but they can be seen.
Engine is ready to come out. Just been real busy with work.
Does the car need to be raised to get the engine and 4 speed out as one unit?
Any tips?
Hot a good look at the cylinder walls, some stuffing on at least 3 cylinder walls. Not deep but they can be seen.
Engine is ready to come out. Just been real busy with work.
Does the car need to be raised to get the engine and 4 speed out as one unit?
Any tips?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
Yes tiny slivers here and there in oil pan, Before I knew I had issues I changed oil and filter just after I purchased the car.
Hot a good look at the cylinder walls, some stuffing on at least 3 cylinder walls. Not deep but they can be seen.
Engine is ready to come out. Just been real busy with work.
Does the car need to be raised to get the engine and 4 speed out as one unit?
Any tips?
Hot a good look at the cylinder walls, some stuffing on at least 3 cylinder walls. Not deep but they can be seen.
Engine is ready to come out. Just been real busy with work.
Does the car need to be raised to get the engine and 4 speed out as one unit?
Any tips?
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 29, 2019 at 09:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 16
i plan to fly out of san diego by middle next week back to home base north of dallas. I could fly to where your at help you fix it if you have the money for parts and any machine shop cost needed. If its down to the short block will be easy to pull both it and trans out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 767
Likes: 74
From: Blaine MN
I've read that it's a pain in the neck to remove the shifter but maybe you can pull the trans out with the motor (just removing shift linkage) without to much pain. I pulled my L71 minus the tri-power in about six hours (tranny stayed in) working under a shorty two post lift (sat on a rolling stool mostly) I drove the Car to a buddies house after work on a Friday, we were done before 10PM.