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It's been MANY years since I replaced gauges in a C3, but remember the panel mounting points could be fragile and tricky to get back together nice and straight. Is there anything to unhook first, allowing a bit more harness length before pulling the panel? Any dos/don'ts/tips/video links? THX
You just need to back off the flanged nuts on studs at the bottom of the gauge bezel (access via the two front access panels on trans tunnel). Then you can remove the side and upper screws into the interior panels, remove the control ***** of the radio and remove the nuts/washers under them. Then you can tip the top of the bezel rearward and ease it out some. The lower studs will slide out of the trans tunnel by pushing bottom of bezel forward a bit then lifting the bezel to clear the studs.
As soon as you can, remove the plastic (or copper) oil pressure tubing from the rear of the gauge. Then you can mark proper location of all wiring an bulbs, then remove them to pull the bezel free.
Change all bulbs (whether they work or not); don't lose the little black "anti-rattle" pieces between plastic gauge lens and gauge backplate; and
MOST OF ALL, test it out after you have everything hooked up again BUT HAVE NOT YET INSTALLED THE BEZEL. If something doesn't work right, you don't want to do it ALL again.
You just need to back off the flanged nuts on studs at the bottom of the gauge bezel (access via the two front access panels on trans tunnel). Then you can remove the side and upper screws into the interior panels, remove the control ***** of the radio and remove the nuts/washers under them. Then you can tip the top of the bezel rearward and ease it out some. The lower studs will slide out of the trans tunnel by pushing bottom of bezel forward a bit then lifting the bezel to clear the studs.
As soon as you can, remove the plastic (or copper) oil pressure tubing from the rear of the gauge. Then you can mark proper location of all wiring an bulbs, then remove them to pull the bezel free.
Change all bulbs (whether they work or not); don't lose the little black "anti-rattle" pieces between plastic gauge lens and gauge backplate; and
MOST OF ALL, test it out after you have everything hooked up again BUT HAVE NOT YET INSTALLED THE BEZEL. If something doesn't work right, you don't want to do it ALL again.
Is there a reasonable amount of wire to the gauges to pull back the panel for rear access after removing the oil line? THX
You just need to back off the flanged nuts on studs at the bottom of the gauge bezel (access via the two front access panels on trans tunnel). Then you can remove the side and upper screws into the interior panels, remove the control ***** of the radio and remove the nuts/washers under them. Then you can tip the top of the bezel rearward and ease it out some. The lower studs will slide out of the trans tunnel by pushing bottom of bezel forward a bit then lifting the bezel to clear the studs.
As soon as you can, remove the plastic (or copper) oil pressure tubing from the rear of the gauge. Then you can mark proper location of all wiring an bulbs, then remove them to pull the bezel free.
Change all bulbs (whether they work or not); don't lose the little black "anti-rattle" pieces between plastic gauge lens and gauge backplate; and
MOST OF ALL, test it out after you have everything hooked up again BUT HAVE NOT YET INSTALLED THE BEZEL. If something doesn't work right, you don't want to do it ALL again.
In addition to these excellent points, take pictures along the way. That saved me when I was re-assembling.
Yes. There is enough wire to pull the bezel out 3 inches or more. But, as you are pulling the top edge back, look to see how much slack there is in that oil pressure line. If you put that line in significant tension, that 40 year-old plastic will snap. That's not a terrible thing, but it's a PITA to get the new line and compatible hardware to re-plumb it. Just get a little open-end wrench in there and loosen the nut on the line, then remove it. Don't worry about a drop or two of oil that comes out the line.
Now, if you lose track and actually start the car with that line loose...... (not so good). And remember to hook it back up once you've put all the bulbs and wiring back in place.
The comment about taking photos is a good idea. It's also wise to have a copy of the AIM sheet for that "bundle" on hand so you can compare what you really have to what it is supposed to look like. Many a person has just pulled all that 'stuff' loose--only to find out that it has to go back in EXACTLY the same way to get it all to fit!!
While it's out, you might want to consider changing your bulbs to LED's. I have been and can tell you they really make a difference at night. Much brighter. If you're considering it, now would be the time to do it.
While it's out, you might want to consider changing your bulbs to LED's. I have been and can tell you they really make a difference at night. Much brighter. If you're considering it, now would be the time to do it.
Are the LED's you used dim-able ?
I have read the LED's cannot be dimmed but not sure if this is true. Just something to consider if cannot dim them.
Where does it state that those LED bulbs are "dimmable"? Most automotive LED bulbs will dim somewhat with the dimmer control on the lamp switch. But, if you decrease intensity very much, the LED's just turn off. The only way to make them function as intended is to put a PWM (pulse width modulation) dimmer control in the power supply line to those bulbs.
If the SuperBright bulbs are fully dimmable (could be done if the circuitry in the bulb allows it), I would like to know where that is documented (or 'claimed').
Yes. There is enough wire to pull the bezel out 3 inches or more. But, as you are pulling the top edge back, look to see how much slack there is in that oil pressure line. If you put that line in significant tension, that 40 year-old plastic will snap. That's not a terrible thing, but it's a PITA to get the new line and compatible hardware to re-plumb it. Just get a little open-end wrench in there and loosen the nut on the line, then remove it. Don't worry about a drop or two of oil that comes out the line.
Now, if you lose track and actually start the car with that line loose...... (not so good). And remember to hook it back up once you've put all the bulbs and wiring back in place.
The comment about taking photos is a good idea. It's also wise to have a copy of the AIM sheet for that "bundle" on hand so you can compare what you really have to what it is supposed to look like. Many a person has just pulled all that 'stuff' loose--only to find out that it has to go back in EXACTLY the same way to get it all to fit!!
I was going to disconnect the oil line at the engine to give a bit more room to move. Of course I'll carefully make sure it's free everywhere. THX
Do as you wish. I think you have a [much] better chance of successfully removing the line from a gauge panel which have been protected from the environment and not subjected to high heat levels. But, that's your decision to make.
Do as you wish. I think you have a [much] better chance of successfully removing the line from a gauge panel which have been protected from the environment and not subjected to high heat levels. But, that's your decision to make.
I was only going to remove it from the engine so I can give myself a little more room to remove it from the rear of the gauge.
Where does it state that those LED bulbs are "dimmable"? Most automotive LED bulbs will dim somewhat with the dimmer control on the lamp switch. But, if you decrease intensity very much, the LED's just turn off. The only way to make them function as intended is to put a PWM (pulse width modulation) dimmer control in the power supply line to those bulbs.
If the SuperBright bulbs are fully dimmable (could be done if the circuitry in the bulb allows it), I would like to know where that is documented (or 'claimed').
Don't know and don't really care. All I can tell you is that they are dimmable as installed.
Well, I finally made time to do this and holy crap what a pain in the ***! Even with the seats out I'm having a helluva time contorting myself just trying to see what size socket or wrench fits those 2 nuts! Any tricks that I'm forgetting? THX
Guage replacement
