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If that happened to my 81, I would stop and make popcorn, then call ins. company after the show.
Of late I might agree that it would have been the better option. But the few girls I did go out with liked it. I did have a daily driver and one who I never did ask out asked which car I use on dates as the daily driver was a 76 Buick Century with the passenger side creamed in from an accident and which I bought from my Uncle for $400. I asked her if she was worried what she would have to ride in if I ever asked her out. Needless to say, she never found out.
About the only girl I took out who didn't like the car was the one I married.
When I did my trailing arms, one bolt was frozen. I soon used up my sawzall blades.
I then used a drill, and with a good aim, drilled thru the shims and the bolt. Start with a smaller bit and work up to one large enough to cover the bolt. Ended up easier than a sawzall.
After one h.ll of a battle I finally have the left on off the car. It took a combo of saw zall and air chisel and it’s now ready for cleaning up and paint. Thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge and keeping me motivated. Now I’m off to take the right side off.
I don't have a plasma cutter to compare but I am also not cutting arms out anymore either.
What???? My god Gary... they are so much fun.
When we bought our first one I'd walk around the shop looking for something just to cut lol... I can cut 1/2 inch steel like plowing through butter and I love it. Of coarse it gave my wife some ideas for "More Honey Do's" which sucked. But as far as trailing arms and frame repair you can't beat it.
Aside from my mill, metal lathe and welder it is the most used tool we have. You should try to get one someday you'll see... I was like a kid in a candy store when it arrived here. After 10 years I finally had to replace the hose and torch head and now it's 100 percent again.
Take care Gary and everyone here stay safe from this Covid Crap... it's wearing us out for sure.
Ok of course I have another question. First off thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I notice that who ever did the bearings the last time did not install the inner bearing dust cover on the spindle support. Is it necessary to have the inner bearings dust covers installed or can you go without them?
One thing with those shields, you have to tap them in place to expand over the OD. If you use a punch it will dent them and not work so good, get a pieced of pipe that fits it and tap it on uniformly. Use a drop of 271 Loctite on the ID of the shield and once in place tap the lip down a little for clearance. Glad to hear you are doing it right.
One thing with those shields, you have to tap them in place to expand over the OD. If you use a punch it will dent them and not work so good, get a pieced of pipe that fits it and tap it on uniformly. Use a drop of 271 Loctite on the ID of the shield and once in place tap the lip down a little for clearance. Glad to hear you are doing it right.
Thank for the tip. I need all the help I can get. Lol
Get a diablo carbide blade for the sawzall. See the one in this thread about my combat with the TA's to see the blade I'm talking about. After hours of trying to get the bolts out without cutting them and then more time with a different blade, this beast cut through both bolts in 4 minutes total time.
Here's a link to Home Depot for the blade. As I said, 4 minutes total time on both bolts. Blade teeth were still in good shape. No need for multiple blades.
And per our Willcox friend's recommendation - put lube on it. Few blad es hold up well to excessive heat. I threw lube on it 3 or 4 times per bolt.
- Note for Vets -
always ask Home Depot & Lowe's etc for Veterans' Discount; they & others usually play well. It adds up; 'specially on an appliance. Got another 10% off on an already smokin' deal on a french-door fridge at HD
Last edited by 71chimera; Sep 3, 2020 at 02:23 PM.
- Note for Vets -
always ask Home Depot & Lowe's etc for Veterans' Discount; they & others usually play well. It adds up; 'specially on an appliance. Got another 10% off on an already smokin' deal on a french-door fridge at HD
After 6 years on this project I've become numb to any spend under $100 .
I've started to reassemble the Driver side and i believe my Wheel Bearings are too tight. I used the set-up tool and spacers and came up with .002 clearance so I packed the wheel bearings and assembled the bearing support. I torque the castle nut to 100 ft/lbs and now when i try to spin the spindle it feel very tight. I can spin it but it take some force to do it. Just wondering if i should pull the spindle back out and try it again with a bigger spacer? Any and all thoughts are welcomed.
If you're confident of the .002" play during set up and the nut was tight, I would go with it. I have found that on final assemble the grease will make them feel slightly tighter and be hard to feel any end play.
If you're confident of the .002" play during set up and the nut was tight, I would go with it. I have found that on final assemble the grease will make them feel slightly tighter and be hard to feel any end play.
Thanks 75,
This is more then slightly tighter, I almost need two hands to turn it.