Trailing Arm Nightmare
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,173
Likes: 3,982
From: Connecticut, USA
Something is wrong if you are that tight, most likely setup.
To setup rear bearings
To setup rear bearings
- clean the new bearings and oil with light wt spindle oil
- clean the support bores, check for them being round
- install new races fully seating them
- check the spacer and shims - they have to be flat and parallel
- check the spacer bell end to see if it hangs up on the shoulder of the tool
- install the bearings, spacer and shim on the tool and look for them to see flat
- install the bearings in the support without the shim or spacer, snug up and rotate 12 time both CW & CCW. Tighten again and continue this cycling until they don't change. This is seating the bearings
- Install the spacer and 150" shim, torque tool to 100 ft/lb and check endplay. Deduct the amount shown and reshim to that amount. ie: if you have 030 endplay with the 150" shim install a 120 shim and recheck it
- I hold the support fixed so the tool is in a vertical plane. The allows you to push up on the handle of the tool with the indicator on the end to show endplay. Once you get to 002 look close at your first push up. If the indicator jumps 4-5 thou and settles in that is lateral play and should be removed. Grind the shim on a surface grinder to just remove enough to get to the point where the indicator does not jump. Without a surface grinder it is very difficult to dial them in precisely. You can get to "vendor" level but if you want them to be smooth, snug, with no lateral play they have to be machine fit. Alternately you can lap the spacer and if you take your time can come in very close to machine fit. However, these are setup all over the place by many and still function- some better then others. Look on YT to see what I mean. None are precise at all there and they still use them. I sure wouldn't on my car but plenty do.
- Once they are dialed in they should not change from the setup tool to final install. I use a press to install I don't like the puller tool sold.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
One other item, how certain are you about the calibration of your torque wrench? I'm fortunate in that the building I work in has a calibration lab. So, even though my wrench is a moderately priced (not cheap) unit I can check it regularly and verify what the deviation is. At higher loads it is up to 7% off but that's been consistent so it's useable as I know that if I want X set it at Y.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
Well today must be my lucky day, started to take things back apart and i saw that the dust cover was rubbing against the spindle flange. I didn't have the dust cover on far enough, after correctly installing everything all is good. Thanks everyone for your help
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