Trailing Arm Nightmare
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
Trailing Arm Nightmare
As some of you know I’ve decided to rebuild my Trailing Arms on my 81 myself. I unfortunately have decided that the Trailing Arm bolt on the left side is not going to come out, it’s frozen solid. So my only choice is to cut it out. Are there any tips or suggestions on how I should cut it out? The shims on the outer side are out be the inners are stuck too. Thanks in advance.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
Likes: 44
From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
I had to use a Sawzall to cut the bolts and shims to get my Trailing Arms off.
Be patient when cutting and buy several blades in advance.
Be patient when cutting and buy several blades in advance.
Last edited by Stewart's74; Aug 31, 2020 at 12:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 226
From: PA
Get a diablo carbide blade for the sawzall. See the one in this thread about my combat with the TA's to see the blade I'm talking about. After hours of trying to get the bolts out without cutting them and then more time with a different blade, this beast cut through both bolts in 4 minutes total time.
Here's a link to Home Depot for the blade. As I said, 4 minutes total time on both bolts. Blade teeth were still in good shape. No need for multiple blades.
And per our Willcox friend's recommendation - put lube on it. Few blades hold up well to excessive heat. I threw lube on it 3 or 4 times per bolt.
Here's a link to Home Depot for the blade. As I said, 4 minutes total time on both bolts. Blade teeth were still in good shape. No need for multiple blades.
And per our Willcox friend's recommendation - put lube on it. Few blades hold up well to excessive heat. I threw lube on it 3 or 4 times per bolt.
Last edited by vince vette 2; Aug 31, 2020 at 02:56 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Not that this will help you much, but when we run into this in the shop we will cut the arm off at the frame.
After the arm is removed we take the plasma cutter and cut the rest out. The labor intense job of sawing it eats up labor for the customer and if we spend 2 hours cutting one out with a saws all we could have purchased a new arm and installed it. In the long run this saves the customer money especially since it only takes us about 15 minutes to cut the end of the arm out once the entire arm is out of the way.
Aside from that... everything everyone else said above is 100 percent on spot. Be sure to put some lubrication on the area you are cutting and cut through where the rubber is in the bushing, this will save you some time because you'll only be cutting through one thickness of the bolt and the inner sleeve. Cut on the inside of this and you'll be cutting the outer sleeve on the bushing and it will take more time.
IMHO,
Willcox
After the arm is removed we take the plasma cutter and cut the rest out. The labor intense job of sawing it eats up labor for the customer and if we spend 2 hours cutting one out with a saws all we could have purchased a new arm and installed it. In the long run this saves the customer money especially since it only takes us about 15 minutes to cut the end of the arm out once the entire arm is out of the way.
Aside from that... everything everyone else said above is 100 percent on spot. Be sure to put some lubrication on the area you are cutting and cut through where the rubber is in the bushing, this will save you some time because you'll only be cutting through one thickness of the bolt and the inner sleeve. Cut on the inside of this and you'll be cutting the outer sleeve on the bushing and it will take more time.
IMHO,
Willcox
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,645
Likes: 2,464
From: Indiana
the stories i heard were as above.. many blades,, and if it was me there is aHUGE difference in cutting blades.. (USA SWISS made better)..as others die too fast..
i am rooting for you!!! any pics? spray area liberally with some god oil/ penetrant? kroil i like..
i am guessing a long stroke and blade to get in there?
i am rooting for you!!! any pics? spray area liberally with some god oil/ penetrant? kroil i like..
i am guessing a long stroke and blade to get in there?
Last edited by interpon; Aug 31, 2020 at 03:12 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,907
Likes: 4,480
From: Virginia
Get a diablo carbide blade for the sawzall. See the one in this thread about my combat with the TA's to see the blade I'm talking about. After hours of trying to get the bolts out without cutting them and then more time with a different blade, this beast cut through both bolts in 4 minutes total time.
Here's a link to Home Depot for the blade. As I said, 4 minutes total time on both bolts. Blade teeth were still in good shape. No need for multiple blades.
And per our Willcox friend's recommendation - put lube on it. Few blades hold up well to excessive heat. I threw lube on it 3 or 4 times per bolt.
Here's a link to Home Depot for the blade. As I said, 4 minutes total time on both bolts. Blade teeth were still in good shape. No need for multiple blades.
And per our Willcox friend's recommendation - put lube on it. Few blades hold up well to excessive heat. I threw lube on it 3 or 4 times per bolt.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
the stories i heard were as above.. many blades,, and if it was me there is aHUGE difference in cutting blades.. (USA SWISS made better)..as others die too fast..
i am rooting for you!!! any pics? spray area liberally with some god oil/ penetrant? kroil i like..
i am guessing a long stroke and blade to get in there?
i am rooting for you!!! any pics? spray area liberally with some god oil/ penetrant? kroil i like..
i am guessing a long stroke and blade to get in there?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,136
Likes: 3,939
From: Connecticut, USA
One thing I didn't see mentioned is the inner sleeve is hardened, that is what chews up your blades. You have to cut in front on if it. I have cut the arms like Ernie mentions to get a bad arm out of the way. They I could get around it better and have used a torch as well but the sawzall works better. I don't have a plasma cutter to compare but I am also not cutting arms out anymore either.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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use the shortest blade that will do the job. A really long one that wont let the feet bottom on the frame will invite the blade to get bent. Good luck. On metal bodied cars I've used heat from a torch to get rusted bolt loose but I try to keep flame away from my corvette as much as humanly possible...
Good Luck!!!!
Good Luck!!!!
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 226
From: PA
use the shortest blade that will do the job. A really long one that wont let the feet bottom on the frame will invite the blade to get bent. Good luck. On metal bodied cars I've used heat from a torch to get rusted bolt loose but I try to keep flame away from my corvette as much as humanly possible...
Good Luck!!!!
Good Luck!!!!
Fortunately, the car that was on fire was on the passenger side of my car allowing me hop in without getting baked. And fortunately the carburetor behaved itself allowing for a quick start and exit. And fortunately it was 35 years ago when I I was much more nimble and more likely to act first and consider the consequences later.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Nothing like having someone banging on your apartment door 15 minutes after you go to bed and when you open the door wearing nothing but a pair of pants have the guy yell "Do you own that white vette?!" and when you say yes he shouts "The car parked next to it is on fire!"
Fortunately, the car that was on fire was on the passenger side of my car allowing me hop in without getting baked. And fortunately the carburetor behaved itself allowing for a quick start and exit. And fortunately it was 35 years ago when I I was much more nimble and more likely to act first and consider the consequences later.
Fortunately, the car that was on fire was on the passenger side of my car allowing me hop in without getting baked. And fortunately the carburetor behaved itself allowing for a quick start and exit. And fortunately it was 35 years ago when I I was much more nimble and more likely to act first and consider the consequences later.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I have had that mistake a thousand times. Having worked for Lenox for 35 years now I have had my fair share of cutting pretty much everything. All the advice above is very good. Use lubricant! A saw blades worst enemy is heat and vibration. Once you start seeing sparks you are pretty much toast. Slow and steady wins the saw blade race. I have cut countless bolts and hardened bolts with a bimetal blade. The faster the blade goes the quicker it dulls out. Bimetal is good, the carbide if you want to step up in price is better. A good quality bimetal blade run properly will do the job just fine though.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 28
From: Southern MD
Not that this will help you much, but when we run into this in the shop we will cut the arm off at the frame.
After the arm is removed we take the plasma cutter and cut the rest out.
After the arm is removed we take the plasma cutter and cut the rest out.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,136
Likes: 3,939
From: Connecticut, USA
Appreciate the endorsement but its Lenox. The two N company fixes HVAC. I have had that mistake a thousand times. Having worked for Lenox for 35 years now I have had my fair share of cutting pretty much everything. All the advice above is very good. Use lubricant! A saw blades worst enemy is heat and vibration. Once you start seeing sparks you are pretty much toast. Slow and steady wins the saw blade race. I have cut countless bolts and hardened bolts with a bimetal blade. The faster the blade goes the quicker it dulls out. Bimetal is good, the carbide if you want to step up in price is better. A good quality bimetal blade run properly will do the job just fine though.
I have had that mistake a thousand times. Having worked for Lenox for 35 years now I have had my fair share of cutting pretty much everything. All the advice above is very good. Use lubricant! A saw blades worst enemy is heat and vibration. Once you start seeing sparks you are pretty much toast. Slow and steady wins the saw blade race. I have cut countless bolts and hardened bolts with a bimetal blade. The faster the blade goes the quicker it dulls out. Bimetal is good, the carbide if you want to step up in price is better. A good quality bimetal blade run properly will do the job just fine though.