When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
looking for it Ill post soon as I locate it. Used a lot on 383 super ram engines that peak about 5500ish it kicks butt and is daily drivebale.
If you go 700r may wanna add more gear. You can keep your 400, put a small converter in it..you may love it and leave it alone. If not a little more gear/700r will do if you get bored.
Few 383 builds here in Ca that pass smog with this one.
Id love to have the overdrive, but I hear 700r4 are not as reliable as the 400. What’s your thoughts?
Id also consider an aftermarket overdrive that can be installed on the 400, but I’d definitely have to research that.
It is true that they are not known to be as strong as a T400, or in the early years, even as strong as a turbo 350. I would hope that the aftermarket performance built versions would be strong. Hopefully some here can chime in. The 700R4s ran from approx 1982 to 1992. They were very weak in the beginning and got better over time. V8 versions a little different that V6. I bought one out of a wrecked 1992 305 car and my Cousin rebuilt it with a B&M rebuild kit and added a B&M shift kit. We put in the Corvette servo too (‘posed to be better?). There was another Corvette based item we added to the valve body, but I can’t remember what it’s called. It kept it from dropping out of OD at high speeds (which was not good)
I did do the retrofit /install myself. So far it’s held up in my ‘79 Camaro for about 19 years. I’d say the air dyno numbers for my Camaro are 350HP/ 380TQ. I’ve only put about 10,000 miles on it though. However, they have been somewhat abusive miles with lots of burnouts, full throttle 1-2 shifts, etc. I did put a lockup TC in it too.
If I ever frag that 700R4, I’ll buy one from a performance tranny builder
With the amount of fun that came with that lower first gear, I would never go back to a T350 (or T400). YMMV.
Id love to have the overdrive, but I hear 700r4 are not as reliable as the 400. What’s your thoughts?
Id also consider an aftermarket overdrive that can be installed on the 400, but I’d definitely have to research that.
I just sold a hotrod I built with a warm 355 SBC and it had a built 700R4 with a elec lock up converter. Thats like a 5spd. I had that in for almost 15yrs of all kinds of driving and it never burped. Get one built by someone who knows what there doing and you wont have any problems
unless you constantly abuse it and beat the **** out of it. Its the same basic trans as the 4L60E except no computer. If you need a builder
I can hook you up.
SF
Last edited by 0311 jarhead; Jun 24, 2021 at 07:02 PM.
Id love to have the overdrive, but I hear 700r4 are not as reliable as the 400. What’s your thoughts?
Id also consider an aftermarket overdrive that can be installed on the 400, but I’d definitely have to research that.
The TH400 is a beast, one of the strongest automatics ever made. The 700r4 isn't as strong as a TH400 but can be built. I had 700r4 built with extra clutches, corvette servo, etc. My transmission builder who builds lots of hotrod and racing transmissions opinion is much beyond 450HP save yourself the pain and to just go TH400 or 4l80. A few of my friends are running his 700r4 at 500+HP with 406's and they seem to be holding up to a good amount of abuse. Good builders are not always easy to find, there are lots of tricks to making one last and the mega dealers are probably not the place to go for a good one.
I build mine just as a rowdy street cruiser/tire burner, but it's probably on the edge of being decent on the street. For something fun to drive around town I would have gone down in duration to 218-224 and 9.5-1 compression. With vortec heads and 3.08 gears, you might want to look at something like comp XR270hr. Comp has some dyno graphs from a 350 that might give you an idea of power band on a bunch of different cams. Those vortecs will make good power with the right cam. A cam that puts down good power from 1200 rpm - 5k rpm is just going to work better on the street than one that pulls from 2500-5000.
FYI : I had vtec rebuild my diff and install 3.70 gears, I think it was $1100 plus a couple hundred shipping. Jim at vtec is good guy to talk to and does great work.
I just went from a voodoo 262 cam to the comp XE270hr in my 10:1 355 and the difference in power was very noticable. It takes longer for the car to warm up and reliably idle in gear now but that may have something to do with the new carb as well which I will have tuned soon as the bung for my AFR meter gets welded in on sunday. a 270 cam will be even less aggressive in a 383 but in my engine its great on the street, nothing crazy and it feels like I picked up power through the whole rpm range. I am using 1.6 rrs
I'm also installing a 2004r OD transmission which should slip in with no mods to the drivetrain as well as a 3.55 rear end (I scored a great deal on facebook classifieds for the rebuilt diff). My friend who builds transmissions told me he actually prefers the later 2004rs to the 700r4. Most of what I have read stated the 700r4 is stronger in stock form.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 25, 2021 at 10:10 AM.
^^^^ were you using the 262 HR or the flat tappet?
Most 270 type cams work great on the st for a "driver"
262 flat tappet.. went to the roller 270 cam and I dont doubt that was a large part of my gains. and yes a "driver" was what im looking for. I made the cam choice before I found the 3.55 rear gears but had I known I was going this route I believe I would have gone with the howards 245 cam which was one step larger.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 25, 2021 at 10:51 AM.
Comparing durations between roller and flat tappets @ .050 is not a fair comparison as the roller has a LOT less area under the curve to open and shut the valve faster.....this combined with friction reduction is the only two things that determine how much power a roller has over a flat tappet. You can't compare them short of seeing how far down the page you go in the catalog.
Jebby
I thought it was the other way around with a roller cam lobe having MORE area under the curve allowing the valves to be open longer and more gasses to be moved on each stroke.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 25, 2021 at 11:04 AM.
I just went from a voodoo 262 cam to the comp XE270hr in my 10:1 355 and the difference in power was very noticable. It takes longer for the car to warm up and reliably idle in gear now but that may have something to do with the new carb as well which I will have tuned soon as the bung for my AFR meter gets welded in on sunday. a 270 cam will be even less aggressive in a 383 but in my engine its great on the street, nothing crazy and it feels like I picked up power through the whole rpm range. I am using 1.6 rrs
I'm also installing a 2004r OD transmission which should slip in with no mods to the drivetrain as well as a 3.55 rear end (I scored a great deal on facebook classifieds for the rebuilt diff). My friend who builds transmissions told me he actually prefers the later 2004rs to the 700r4. Most of what I have read stated the 700r4 is stronger in stock form.
do people only install an O2 sensor on one side (and trust that the other side is running the same ) ?
I thought it was the other way around with a roller cam lobe having MORE area under the curve allowing the valves to be open longer and more gasses to be moved on each stroke.
No.....it has less area under the curve but a much steeper ramp......you wouldn't design a roller like a flat tappet as you plain can't have a steep ramp on a F/T and you do not want a lot of area under the curve with a Roller.....
One more question. I was under the impression that by using a roller block, one could save a lot of money on pricing for hydraulic roller lifters, But the still seem very spendy.
Are the OEM LS7 hydraulic roller lifters a good choice? I hear they are much cheaper.
Last edited by need-for-speed; Jun 25, 2021 at 12:07 PM.
Are you saying the 1.6 rockers are not worth the extra $ or would be detrimental to my combo? Reason I ask is I already have a set of 1.6 stamped steel roller tip rockers on a ball pivot. Just wanting to clarify if you recommend I purchase a different set of rockers, and if so I’ll just try to sell this set on CF.
Thanks for your input!
I mean...if you have them, ok.....but you have to make sure of retainer to guide clearance....even if cut, as .560 lifts are .110 more than the factory will take...and I cannot remember what they are after they are cut with Comps tool......but it has to be getting close again there......
I just wouldn't do a 1.6 unless you need to.....or if it is to your benefit......as the head just doesn't support it.....you may see a little more, but not much.....1.6 rockers respond when you have more head than cam. Not the case here.....
I broke my 406 FT engine on 1.5's and when I went to 1.6's.......there was zero gain......the head flow stalls around .500 lift @ 264 CFM.......
So you can use them if you like.....but check that clearance.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Jun 25, 2021 at 12:11 PM.
One more question. I was under the impression that by using a roller block, one could save a lot of money on pricing for hydraulic roller lifters, But the still seem very spendy.
Are the OEM LS7 hydraulic roller lifters a good choice? I hear they are much cheaper.
Check out some of GM performance cams. They make a couple “off road” HR that are street able. I think they use a billet core and have a step nose for the roller block. A 383 will tame them a bit and they are reasonable price.
Check out some of GM performance cams. They make a couple “off road” HR that are street able. I think they use a billet core and have a step nose for the roller block. A 383 will tame them a bit and they are reasonable price.
Thanks. Good reminder on the billet. The GM performance cams are definitely on my radar. As you mentioned, they are (steel?) billet vs cast iron. Also, someone mentioned in one of the threads that the GM cams require less spring pressure than many of the aftermarket cams, which would be good for reliability / longevity. I’m aware of the LT4 hot cam. Anyone aware of others, or where to look?
Both say "off highway use only" however in a larger engine they will act a bit more tame.
I bought the 723 but have not got the engine it is going in assembled yet.
Since we are bench racing...I voted for a Howards #110102 solid FT with 1.6 rockers........275/281 Advertised. .516"/.532" NET (after lash) on 112 LSA, ICL 108. Should make good power from 2600 - 6200 RPM range in a 383.
Both say "off highway use only" however in a larger engine they will act a bit more tame.
I bought the 723 but have not got the engine it is going in assembled yet.
great. thanks !
I noticed the first cam is the one in the GMPP ZZ383 (425 HP). That would be a very good choice for the 383 that I am planning.
So do “LS7” hydraulic roller lifters work in roller block SBC’s? I would think not since it is an LS lifter, but I see many references on the interweb of people using them in their SBC 383’s....
Last edited by need-for-speed; Jun 25, 2021 at 11:20 PM.
No.....it has less area under the curve but a much steeper ramp......you wouldn't design a roller like a flat tappet as you plain can't have a steep ramp on a F/T and you do not want a lot of area under the curve with a Roller.....
The #723 cam came in my ZZ383 motor and I've decided to keep it. I need the vacuum for lights and wipers
which work perfect now. Just changing to a Wieand dual plane with a 750cfm Edelbrock carb to clear my hood
and converting my disto to electronic. Should put out low-mid 400hp which will go fine with my muncie and 370 posi
and 4X better than the CA smog motor in the car now. I didnt want the extra weight of a big block and now with an
alum flywheel should wind up pretty quick.