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Cam selection for 383 (385) stroker

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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 06:16 AM
  #121  
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Edelbrock usually casts the GMPP heads out here in San Jacinto.
They make other major mfrs too.
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 07:05 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by gkull
Not correct, from the valve seat to the spring seat is the same distance. Aluminum heads are milled for bigger 1.46 or so springs. Aluminum heads require spring shims to protect the aluminum

Generally people don't invest in aluminum heads to put in flat tappet low lift cams
I think there are a lot of people with aluminum heads with street engines and cams that are 278 duration or smaller. Especially now that most aftermarket heads are aluminium. I have aluminum heads at the machine shop now that are replacing my old dart iron eagles. I'm aware of the shims or retainers needed for springs on aluminum heads but did not think they were the main purpose of a .100 or .200 longer valve stem requirement.
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 09:25 AM
  #123  
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I actually watched an older episode of engine masters last night where they compared a comp xe276hr vs an Isky flat tappet cam with the same duration on a mild sbc. The retro roller cam made noticably more power through the whole curve but the power increase grew with RPM. Below 4000 rpm the power curve was very close between the two and that does reinforce the common statement found on the internet that for a mild street engine that doesn't see rpms it may not be a worthwhile investment for everyone. being that I went from a 262 cam with 218 at .050 to a 270 cam with 218 at .050 Its not exactly an apples to apples comparison but the roller Cam really woke my engine up compared to the voodoo tappet cam. Im hoping the $700 195cc runner aluminum heads I will be installing will wake it up even more compared to the 25 year old 180cc iron eagles based on flow numbers.

Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 11, 2021 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 12:02 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by gkull

Generally people don't invest in aluminum heads to put in flat tappet low lift cams
Even excluding OEM engines, I suspect that there are more aluminum headed engines with < .560 lift cams than with > .560 lift.

Last edited by need-for-speed; Jul 11, 2021 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 12:13 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by 0311 jarhead
What is the benefit of LS lifters? I just bought a GM, ZZ383 gen 2 block vortec alum heads and a roller setup. Anybody know what lifters are in here?
Part # according to the spec sheet is 17120735. Also, anyone know who actually makes the alum heads and camshaft ?
Thanks
for me, nothing more than pricing and more choices. Yours are listed as “Chev performance lifters”. You’re good.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-17120735


Last edited by need-for-speed; Jul 11, 2021 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 09:27 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Jarhead 74 Vette
Are you saying the 1.6 rockers are not worth the extra $ or would be detrimental to my combo? Reason I ask is I already have a set of 1.6 stamped steel roller tip rockers on a ball pivot. Just wanting to clarify if you recommend I purchase a different set of rockers, and if so I’ll just try to sell this set on CF.
Thanks for your input!
Toss those and buy a good rocker arm. I know of several people who used those. And in 2 cases the rockers galled and made noise like you could not imagine.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 01:38 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
IDK 2 grand just to install a roller cam alone is an exaggeration IMO,
using good quality parts. Morrell roller lifters are over $1000, pushrod are $200, beehive springs are over $500, billet steel timing sets are $200., cloyes aluminum timing adjustable button cover $200, comp cams ultra pro rockers $360 7/16 ARP rocker studs $150, taller valve covers. The list goes on. Like billet steel cam shafts that you never have to worry about and flattened lobe

That's for h roller with the ability to do 7000 rpm. Or for solid rollers that can do 7500 rpm every day.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 02:20 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by gkull
using good quality parts. Morrell roller lifters are over $1000, pushrod are $200, beehive springs are over $500, billet steel timing sets are $200., cloyes aluminum timing adjustable button cover $200, comp cams ultra pro rockers $360 7/16 ARP rocker studs $150, taller valve covers. The list goes on. Like billet steel cam shafts that you never have to worry about and flattened lobe

That's for h roller with the ability to do 7000 rpm. Or for solid rollers that can do 7500 rpm every day.
Ok but for the the rest of those people trying to get more more power for their 40+ year old street cruiser with automatic transmissions and 3.08 gears who arent building a 7000rpm+ track car. A person could use less extremely priced components for their engine and still benefit from a roller cam with much smaller investment and have more fun below 6000rpm on the street.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 02:41 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
Ok but for the the rest of those people trying to get more more power for their 40+ year old street cruiser with automatic transmissions and 3.08 gears who arent building a 7000rpm+ track car. A person could use less extremely priced components for their engine and still benefit from a roller cam with much smaller investment and have more fun below 6000rpm on the street.
Your modern LS motors are all 7000 rpm h roller cammed . They are not track cars that is how they exceed 400 hp or 505 hp for the LS7 equipped vettes.

The big thing is to make the motor last. I won't buy soft metal cams. Factory roller steel cams can last 100,000 miles

Last edited by gkull; Jul 12, 2021 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 03:31 PM
  #130  
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^^im super leery of cast core rollers and "budget" lifters. No way can they be great quality.
Spent way more than I wanted to for a good sr setup but if it goes south I know theres nothing more I coulda done.
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 03:39 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by cv67
^^im super leery of cast core rollers and "budget" lifters. No way can they be great quality.
Spent way more than I wanted to for a good sr setup but if it goes south I know theres nothing more I coulda done.
See now if mine somehow goes south I can take some relief in knowing I dont have all that much into it and I'll see it as opportunity to replace it with that 406 ive been thinking about. In truth though I doubt ill blow it up going from stop sign to stoplight. especially since I never see 5,000 rpm let alone 7k. I think different grades of components have their place in different types use use and with different budgets. My "budget" engine pro lifters and ductile iron comp cam may not be worthy of 7,000 rpm but I see no reason they wont fit the bill just fine in my car where they likely will be upgraded again at some point when I swap in something else just as I did when installing them and swapping out the lunati flat tappet setup which showed no signs of unsual wear either.

Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 13, 2021 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 07:29 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by diehrd
Toss those and buy a good rocker arm. I know of several people who used those. And in 2 cases the rockers galled and made noise like you could not imagine.
Agree! I owned a set of the roller tip rockers with rocker *****. They blued and wore down excessively making the lash loose and having to re-lash the valves, until I figured what was going on. Full roller rocker for any decent open spring pressure, basically any roller cam.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Jul 13, 2021 at 07:30 PM.
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