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Well, after much searching, debating, stressing, then searching more…I finally decided to make a change of plans.
Seeing that my car will be strictly a weekend cruiser, and I’m really not overly interested in torque numbers that will break other parts, I decided to backtrack some and I purchased a blueprint crate engine, 350 (357 with a 4.040 bore), with a 30 mo/ 50,000 mi warranty. There were only 2 of these remaining, nationwide, at the time of purchase, and that last one was spoken for soon after. So I jumped on it in the hopes of getting this car back together before October, which will mark the 1 year anniversary from when I pulled the old 350 out. Time will tell.
Considering everywhere i looked for a retro roller cam setup they were on National back order. Then, at a price point of $1,000+ for a cam, lifters and then rockers to boot, I’d be at ~1/3 the cost of a long block crate engine, just for a cam setup.
I understand, I’m taking a step backwards in torque numbers from a 383 to a 357, but I’d still be in a similar hp range as the stroker.
It comes with vortec heads, so I still plan on using my RPM Air Gap intake with my old Holley 650 carb. Haven’t decided on a torque converter yet. Most likely an 1800-2000 rpm stall.
Another factor for my decision was the fact that the machine shop doing the work on my engine is dragging his feet on the balancing work (due to labor shortages I suppose). And I have a local buddy who wants to buy my 383 short block for his S-10 strip truck once the machine shop assembles it to that point.
Needless to say, I’m no longer stressing about finding the right cam for my vette. I’ve moved on to other aspects of the build. 🤪
Thank you all for your input!
I’ll start a new thread on the 357 install soon…😎
One other thing....I had a motor like yours in my 34 Ford with a 700R4 trans. It really liked a 2500 stall converter. 1800 and you'll be wanting to slide thru stoplights with the brakes on.
I like the GM 723 cam for your engine. It's 222/230 so just a little more tame than the earlier one you picked. You said want just a little lope and also have 308 gears.
I am working on a friends car with the ZZ383 in it, and that cam, and 3.23s and a 2400 convertor. It has run 11.90s @ 110+ at the strip in a 69 Camaro. It's plenty strong.
You will like the slightly milder cam on the street better.
My best friend has literally built 5000 engines himself, and his favorite quote is when you are talking about a street car, and you have you selection narrowed down to 2 or 3 cams, "Always choose the smallest one of the two cams". You'll be happier that way. Don't chase HP & duration numbers unless you are racing it. That's a completely different story. With those heads you'll gain little or no HP from more duration, and just loose idle quality and low end TQ.
ZZ383 ....GM723 or similar duration, you can't go wrong.
I like the GM 723 cam for your engine. It's 222/230 so just a little more tame than the earlier one you picked. You said want just a little lope and also have 308 gears.
I am working on a friends car with the ZZ383 in it, and that cam, and 3.23s and a 2400 convertor. It has run 11.90s @ 110+ at the strip in a 69 Camaro. It's plenty strong.
You will like the slightly milder cam on the street better.
My best friend has literally built 5000 engines himself, and his favorite quote is when you are talking about a street car, and you have you selection narrowed down to 2 or 3 cams, "Always choose the smallest one of the two cams". You'll be happier that way. Don't chase HP & duration numbers unless you are racing it. That's a completely different story. With those heads you'll gain little or no HP from more duration, and just loose idle quality and low end TQ.
ZZ383 ....GM723 or similar duration, you can't go wrong.
thats likely the cam I will use on my 383 build next year. Someone here recommended it. Hell it may have even been you who suggested it LOL. From what I’ve learned, a couple of advantages:
1. GM cams are steel. Many aftermarket cams are cast iron
2. GM cams are often designed to work with lower spring pressure. This one, I am not positive about.
3. more or less, it’s a proven grind for a street 383.
Does anyone know if this cam would produce enough manifold vacuum on a 383 for power brakes? I assume yes or GM wouldn’t spec it for their ZZ383.
10-4 on erring on the small side. With my current 350, I went with a Comp Cams extreme energy. FT. I wanted to get the 268 - cuz that’s what everyone was getting. But I have a “small” 350: Eddy 170 cc heads, performer intake, 1-5/8 headers, and 600 CFM carb. The guy on the phone for Comp Cams, pushed me hard for the 262, and that’s what I did I and I’m glad I did. The motor will roast the tires from here to Galveston
Its perfect for my 3,600 lb car and street fun.
Last edited by need-for-speed; Jul 8, 2021 at 09:40 PM.
Ugh, I wish you had said something earlier. I was just at Summit Racing in Arlington, Tx on Monday and they had the aluminum head, Holley Sniper version of this engine on clearance for $4,500. - Normally $6g’s.
@JC 1975 hey man, did they have any 383’s on clearance?
No, this was the only engine in their “clearance” section. They must be clearing out their old inventory because they had the most clearance items I’ve ever seen.
Ugh, I wish you had said something earlier. I was just at Summit Racing in Arlington, Tx on Monday and they had the aluminum head, Holley Sniper version of this engine on clearance for $4,500. - Normally $6g’s.
Thats a fantastic price! Must have been an in-store only deal, because last I’d checked, those weren’t $4,500 online.
oh well, I still picked up the long block for under $3,000, and I already have some of the accessories needed.
Good choice for a cruiser. One thing you need to consider , which I just went thru the same thing is what intake to use. You said RPM air gap. I did the math and with a stock small hood, I dont think it will fit. If you have the big hood it should be no problem. I just tried putting a 3" air filter on my stock setup and it wont clear. Just a heads up. Also, you need to get a Vortec intake. I tried a non vortec and it wont work with those heads.
SF
If my understanding is correct, I’ve heard it many times in here that the Air Gap will fit a mid-rise hood using a 2” drop base air cleaner. I’ve got all my chips on the table counting on it to clear my hood. Otherwise, I may be driving hood less for a while. Lol
And the air gap is a vortec intake so I should be good to go there.
If my understanding is correct, I’ve heard it many times in here that the Air Gap will fit a mid-rise hood using a 2” drop base air cleaner. I’ve got all my chips on the table counting on it to clear my hood. Otherwise, I may be driving hood less for a while. Lol
And the air gap is a vortec intake so I should be good to go there.
I recently learned there are 2 different height edelbrock air gap intakes theres a performer air gap and an rpm air gap the rpm is the same height as the rpm airgap and the performer air gap is 1/2" shorter.
This is a perfect example of why everyone would even consider wasting their time giving advice to the.......
It's hard to put into words!
Dreamers that don't have 2 nickels to rub together and ask advice🤪
Nobody on the forum should ever post any thing
Well, I’ll start off by saying I’m sorry for wasting your time, gkull. I truly do appreciate every bit of advice given on this forum from so many knowledgeable guys like yourself. And I can understand how frustrating it must be taking the time to respond to a noob who is still rather clueless despite so much help on CF.
Unfortunately, an OP cannot take everyone’s advice that posts on this forum, there’s far too many differing opinions, and has to ultimately make a decision based on advice given as well as what will fit in the OP’s timetable, budget, parts availability and so forth.
With that said, in this particular case, I had narrowed my cam preferences down to 2 top contenders, however, both of those cam mfgrs were on a National back order. So I called other companies and distributors, and the same thing.
Maybe I should’ve been more patient and waited…a month?, 2 months?, 6 months for a cam setup??
Or plan B? Rather than paying upwards of $1,000 for a retro cam setup, which I was prepared to do, I figured I would be money ahead to switch gears and purchase a crate engine, with a warranty from a highly respected builder, as recommended by many other forum members here and on other forums as well. Plus, I have a buddy who’s been looking for a 383 short block and is interested in buying mine, if and when the machine shop ever gets to that point. Win/win, in my book.
All things considered, you are totally right. In hindsight, I should have NEVER purchased an unrestored C3.
I found my lifelong dream car, rust free nonetheless, for $3800. Little did I know how fast all these countless repairs, rebuilds, mods, repairs, maintenance and more repairs would add up.
Who knows, maybe this is a hobby for the more mechanically inclined or for rich folks and retirees who have lots of time and money at their disposal. I’m not any of those, but that’ll never change my love for the C3.
Unfortunately, I did not research before jumping at the opportunity to finally purchase a C3 within my budget. Little did I know that a few little issues would turn into a whirlwind of never ending repairs. I was simply wanting a cool weekend cruiser with “just enough” fun factor without breaking the bank. Lol!
I really was clueless as to how little $14,000+ will buy when dealing with a nearly 50-year old C3.
Lastly, thank you all, once again, for putting up with us ignorant noobs 🤪 and our countless questions.
Gotta go now and count up the last 2 nickels left of my life savings after buying a vette….and collect on my wife’s promise of another ****-whooping.
I recently learned there are 2 different height edelbrock air gap intakes theres a performer air gap and an rpm air gap the rpm is the same height as the rpm airgap and the performer air gap is 1/2" shorter.
I was unaware of the height difference. Mine is the RPM Air Gap. I hope it fits under the hood….🤷🏼♂️
I had an Edelbrock EPS with one inch spacer and it fit under my stock ‘79 hood. I think combined it was 5.27” tall. However, my carb didn’t have a choke so my lid didn’t sit up as high.
I had an Edelbrock EPS with one inch spacer and it fit under my stock ‘79 hood. I think combined it was 5.27” tall. However, my carb didn’t have a choke so my lid didn’t sit up as high.
when I bought this vette, it already had an edelbrock performer, Holley 650, and a drop base air cleaner, and it fit with a little breathing space under the hood.
Hopefully the RPM air gap will fit, although with less space, or I may have to get a lower profile air filter.
If not, I guess I’ll be shopping for a shorter manifold.
I decided against the air gap myself after much going back and forth.. The reason being is since I went to the bigger comp xe270hr roller cam, the car takes much longer to warm up and idle correctly on its own when in gear. This can be pretty annoying in itself but from what Ive read from multiple owners, the warmup time is extended even longer with the air gap and some owners have reported problems getting it warmed up in cooler weather. That said there are plenty own owners that report no issues and I supposed this has a lot to do with the engine combo and setup. I have read that some have solved the fuel boiling in the floats issue with them. I have a spacer so I dont have that issue but then again I have a high rise hood on my 74.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 9, 2021 at 10:00 AM.
Well, I’ll start off by saying I’m sorry for wasting your time, gkull. I truly do appreciate every bit of advice given on this forum from so many knowledgeable guys like yourself. And I can understand how frustrating it must be taking the time to respond to a noob who is still rather clueless despite so much help on CF.
Unfortunately, an OP cannot take everyone’s advice that posts on this forum, there’s far too many differing opinions, and has to ultimately make a decision based on advice given as well as what will fit in the OP’s timetable, budget, parts availability and so forth.
With that said, in this particular case, I had narrowed my cam preferences down to 2 top contenders, however, both of those cam mfgrs were on a National back order. So I called other companies and distributors, and the same thing.
Maybe I should’ve been more patient and waited…a month?, 2 months?, 6 months for a cam setup??
Or plan B? Rather than paying upwards of $1,000 for a retro cam setup, which I was prepared to do, I figured I would be money ahead to switch gears and purchase a crate engine, with a warranty from a highly respected builder, as recommended by many other forum members here and on other forums as well. Plus, I have a buddy who’s been looking for a 383 short block and is interested in buying mine, if and when the machine shop ever gets to that point. Win/win, in my book.
All things considered, you are totally right. In hindsight, I should have NEVER purchased an unrestored C3.
I found my lifelong dream car, rust free nonetheless, for $3800. Little did I know how fast all these countless repairs, rebuilds, mods, repairs, maintenance and more repairs would add up.
Who knows, maybe this is a hobby for the more mechanically inclined or for rich folks and retirees who have lots of time and money at their disposal. I’m not any of those, but that’ll never change my love for the C3.
Unfortunately, I did not research before jumping at the opportunity to finally purchase a C3 within my budget. Little did I know that a few little issues would turn into a whirlwind of never ending repairs. I was simply wanting a cool weekend cruiser with “just enough” fun factor without breaking the bank. Lol!
I really was clueless as to how little $14,000+ will buy when dealing with a nearly 50-year old C3.
Lastly, thank you all, once again, for putting up with us ignorant noobs 🤪 and our countless questions.
Gotta go now and count up the last 2 nickels left of my life savings after buying a vette….and collect on my wife’s promise of another ****-whooping.
Hang in there. Dreams are not easy to come by or everyone would have one. Remember, everyone had to start somewhere. Good luck with your project.
Hang in there. Dreams are not easy to come by or everyone would have one. Remember, everyone had to start somewhere. Good luck with your project.
Thank you for the words of encouragement! It’s a long slow road, but Rome was not built in a day.
I’m taking delivery of my crate motor today so things are looking up!
Thank you for the words of encouragement! It’s a long slow road, but Rome was not built in a day.
I’m taking delivery of my crate motor today so things are looking up!
I always equate C3 Corvettes to women. They always want your time and are never satisfied. You just have to treat them right and have patients.
You bought your car for $3800??? Dude....You are so far ahead of the curve you can afford to make a few mistakes. I didnt realize yours wasnt the earlier
years. I've been going off that because mine is a 72. You do have a little more room under there to play with. If it was me, I'd wait till you have
the motor in the car to test the height and before you buy something. Start by using what you have, and then order from one of the big stores.
You'll have what you need in 3 days, or in your case just drive down to ATL and pick it up.
BTW, I've been doing this **** for over 60 years and I still need help. Anybody who says he knows everything is full of ****
S.F.
Last edited by 0311 jarhead; Jul 9, 2021 at 12:50 PM.
