Eddy Carb - are you getting the AVS 2 ?

 

If your asking me the answer is no. Just a regular 1407

 

My experience with Eddy carbs has not been good. Maybe just me but I put a small Holley double pumper on it and it was like a different engine!

 

I got a custom grind cam recommendation, this time from Isky Cams. Sounds like it’s right about where I need to be, considering the input I’ve gotten from you guys.


Here’s the specs he suggested:

485 lift on intake
488 lift on exhaust
217 @ 50 on intake
226 @ 50 on exhaust
110 LSA

Im gonna go with 1.5 cast full roller rockers.

What do you guys think?
Do you think this would be a suitable choice for my setup?

383 stroker
9.9:1 SCR
Auto TH400
RPM Air Gap intake
650 Holley
Vortec heads w/screw in studs and ground down guide bosses
Street/weekend cruiser
Exhaust still up for debate
93 pump gas
Likely a 2500 stall converter (TBD)

Thanks again for your input!

 

There is no such thing as a stamped full roller rocker.

You can get a stamped steel stock type rocker, a stamped steel roller tip rocker (do not use those unreliable designs) or cast steel roller tip rockers (do like those) or a full roller rocker made of aluminum or cast steel.

 

One poster here mentioned that the roller tip without roller fulcrum are not good because the roller tip adds weight and the friction reduction need is at the fulcrum, not the tip. I do know that brings the question - then why get full roller rockers?

The best way to go may be like the LS engines have - roller fulcrum w/o the roller tip. If I hadn’t already spent bank on the Comp Cams Pro Magnum full rollers, I would probably buy the LS style.

 

Yeah, you’re 100% correct.
I meant cast steel full roller, not stamped. Lol
Thanks for pointing that out.

 

I'm fortunate to have an old school carb and disto guy close by that sets these up. He does amazing work. I wouldnt be using one if he wasnt around.
I can tune a holly pretty good but an AFB style not so much

 

you are very welcome. Thanks for your service.

 

sting, I was reminded of your signature line the other day. One guy here went to replace his battery to starter cable. I do believe he’s pulling the entire drive train now

p.s. not that there’s anything wrong with that

 

Right now, my camshaft choosing skills are in the “bench racer” class

But I would think you could step it up to the 723 cam in post 55. That’s what came in the ZZ383 crate motor. I’m still several months out from pulling the trigger on my project, but I do believe I’ll get this one.

 

Looks kind of similar to the HOTCAM only a little more aggressive. ought to pull pretty well and drive fine.

 

 

I just selected the hotcam in my old dyno software and with my combo when I change the displacement to 383 and change to the hotcam it almost matches my 355 combo exactly.. Its actually uncanny.. Now I realize software like this is only theoretical using math and performance tables but its an interesting comparision. I'm guessing the extra power in the 355 combo has to come from that "area under the curve" (Or lack there of?) with the roller cam. And I do take all this with a grain of salt myself.

roller xe270hr 355 displacement

flat tappet hotcam and 383 displacement

 

Well, after much searching, debating, stressing, then searching more…I finally decided to make a change of plans.
Seeing that my car will be strictly a weekend cruiser, and I’m really not overly interested in torque numbers that will break other parts, I decided to backtrack some and I purchased a blueprint crate engine, 350 (357 with a 4.040 bore), with a 30 mo/ 50,000 mi warranty. There were only 2 of these remaining, nationwide, at the time of purchase, and that last one was spoken for soon after. So I jumped on it in the hopes of getting this car back together before October, which will mark the 1 year anniversary from when I pulled the old 350 out. Time will tell.





Considering everywhere i looked for a retro roller cam setup they were on National back order. Then, at a price point of $1,000+ for a cam, lifters and then rockers to boot, I’d be at ~1/3 the cost of a long block crate engine, just for a cam setup.
I understand, I’m taking a step backwards in torque numbers from a 383 to a 357, but I’d still be in a similar hp range as the stroker.
It comes with vortec heads, so I still plan on using my RPM Air Gap intake with my old Holley 650 carb. Haven’t decided on a torque converter yet. Most likely an 1800-2000 rpm stall.
Another factor for my decision was the fact that the machine shop doing the work on my engine is dragging his feet on the balancing work (due to labor shortages I suppose). And I have a local buddy who wants to buy my 383 short block for his S-10 strip truck once the machine shop assembles it to that point.
Needless to say, I’m no longer stressing about finding the right cam for my vette. I’ve moved on to other aspects of the build. 🤪
Thank you all for your input!
I’ll start a new thread on the 357 install soon…😎

 

Ugh, I wish you had said something earlier. I was just at Summit Racing in Arlington, Tx on Monday and they had the aluminum head, Holley Sniper version of this engine on clearance for $4,500. - Normally $6g’s.

 

Good choice for a cruiser. One thing you need to consider , which I just went thru the same thing is what intake to use. You said RPM air gap. I did the math and with a stock small hood, I dont think it will fit. If you have the big hood it should be no problem. I just tried putting a 3" air filter on my stock setup and it wont clear. Just a heads up. Also, you need to get a Vortec intake. I tried a non vortec and it wont work with those heads.

SF

 

Good choice.
Speed master just came out with some low profile vortec intake manifolds on sale. I can get you a link later if your interested.

 

yes that speedster intake is a professional products casting they are also avaliable as assault brand, deepmotor and others.. 4.2 inches tall. You can get them for $135 shipped on ebay.

 

I had to send back my Weiand and order up one of those, but I used Summit. A few bucks more