Mrvettenick

Run a compression check to see if there's a difference in cylinder pressure. If a head is cracked, you'll know it. I wouldn't add any water/coolant to avoid any further damage. I'd rather do the heads, instead of the short block.
Good luck!

Rescue Rogers

I would do the heads regardless. The new aluminum heads from AFR, Trick FLow , or Brodix are so much better than stock its not even a comparison

superdave269

Well I didn't run the engine after the antifreeze ended up in the pan but I did crank it over this morning with the plugs out.
I won't crank it again until I put fresh oil in and drain what ever is left of the anti freeze.

My plan is pretty much what Vette 5311 had suggested above.
Next Saturday I plan on going back to where my car is. I will drain the oil/water mix. I would of done that this morning but the shop owner talked me into only removing the plugs and crank it. Most likely because in his mind the engine needs to be removed and rebuilt. That is what he would do.
What I plan on doing is change the oil and filter, drain radiator. Then crank it again in hopes of flushing the bearings with new oil. Even if it doesn't really flush it at least I will feel that I tried and did not leave antifreeze in them.
Once the heads come off I can do a better inspection and put it back together with only the cost of a gasket set ( and possibly new or freshened up heads).

I appreciate all of you that have taken the time to respond to my thread with your knowledge and suggestions. Thank you!

superdave269

I will be pricing new replacement heads. I really do like the idea of once I have the top end off putting on new replacement heads makes a lot of sense to me. Having them ready to go would be faster than sending the old ones out if they need any work. I could have it apart and back together all in the same day if I can find a reasonably priced heads.

Any idea of what a set of heads cost these days? Besides Jegs & Summitt where should I look for a price? I'm scared of the low priced Aluminum heads on eBay.

Mrvettenick

Buy a name brand as mentioned before. If there isn't a name to them then don't buy them.

Rescue Rogers

the price to refurb the old heads is almost the same as a good set of heads....Im guessing SBC THese are some selections no tknowing your piston, dome or dish, etc...
you can get Edelbrock heads pretty cheap for a name brand as $1200 for the pair
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...make/chevrolet
heres a good selection runnng from $1200 per poair to $2000. ANd you do get what you pay for with these companies. You just have to decide if the head will match your piston...Im a high compression kind a guy. I like a minimum of 10:1 so you make a decision on whqt you want bu tfor a small block 180 to 185 intake runner for a street motor tends to do well. If you are running lower compression you can go down to a 165 / 170
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ume-cc%3A65_64

OldCarBum

Since you aren’t planning to go back to the shop until next Saturday, I would call the shop owner tomorrow and ask him what he would charge you to refresh the engine with new bearings, check the rods, hone the block and put it back together.
He may even be able to get you a great deal on a set of aluminum heads.
That way you know what it would cost to refresh the bottom end and have some assurance that everything is right.
It may be cheaper than you think.
If you have the intake and heads off it wouldn’t take much to pull it out and go through it.

If you do purchase heads that come complete, double check the spring rates of the springs to make sure they are compatible with your valve train components.
Too heavy of spring pressure can cause you issues really quick and too light could cause other issues.

Purple92

IMHO - before you make any decision on what to do with the bottom end - drain the oil, and see what it looks like !!!

As of right now - the only thing you can say with a high level of confidence is that you need head gaskets, intake gaskets and exhaust gaskets.

Did the overheat warp the heads - maybe, maybe not. Best way to check is to get the heads to a reputable machine shop and have them checked. You have to pull them to change the head gaskets anyway... Sure, you can try to measure warpage with a good machinists straightedge and feeler gauge blades, but I'd just haul the heads to a decent engine shop. The odds the heads are warped is significantly higher with aluminum heads than with cast iron heads. IF The heads are warped - taking a light cut on the gasket surfaces will run between $100 & $200. Now - if the guides are worn or a valve job is needed - I would agree - don't put more money into the old heads - go right to aftermarket aluminum heads. I agree that the Edelbrock Aluminum heads are a good "Bang for the Buck" performance buy - but they run over $1,000/set - if the current heads are "OK" - there is a lot to be said for just replacing the gaskets and reinstalling. OldCarBum is correct about valve spring pressure but the Edelbrock Performer line should have springs that are compatible with hydraulic flat tappet cams.

Now - as for the Bottom End. I agree coolant in the engine oil is NOT a good thing. But if there is relatively little coolant that got in, and the engine wasn't really under any load when the stuff was in there - I would think the bottom end is "OK". If you don't get primarily "milkshake" when you drain the oil, I would be very tempted to refill with new oil and a filter, reassemble the motor, and light her up. Run it twenty five to fifty miles, and for the last few miles - keep the revs up to get the oil good and warm, and then do another oil change to get out any remaining coolant, and then drive it.

augiedoggy

I have those low priced ebay heads... I bought them bare though. I ported and loaded them.. You can get the AFR enforcers which are the same heads, machined and assembled by AFR for a decent budget minded price. They flow very well. Mine cost me about $700-800 for the pair all together and thats with having them checked out by a local machine shop that recut my exhaust seats for the valves I bought. I see so many folks say to buy the big brand aftermarket heads but assumptions aside I have yet to find any actual complaints on the heads I bought even with all the youtube videos and forum threads on different forums about them. You can even check the amazon reviews on them. In the very beginning there were some machining inconsistencies with them and the older procomp style heads has left a bad taste in a lot of folks mouths which also came from china.
I know the ones I bought from AT racing are good. I replaced dart iron eagle 180s with them.

derekderek

when you cranked it with plugs out did you see which cyl blew water out? and don't waste 5 quarts of oil at a time. you want enough to show oil pressure on the gauge. 2 quarts will do it. might even wanna put in plugs and run it at idle for 1 minute. drain oil again and 2 more quarts. cracked head won't show on compression test. and chinese head castings are still suffering from their bad rep earned 20 years ago. but as auggie said, buy bare and use manley or ferrea valves. PAC or comp springs.

superdave269

Looks like my last reply didn't post.

So I have another question since I have been pondering this situation.
What would happen or would anything happen if I only resurfaced the head on the passengers side since it was #2 cylinder that filled with water. I would still replace both head gaskets since removing one head is almost as much work as removing two.

I ponder my silly question because I have no real idea if shaving .10 off of one side would hurt anything. I know my Dad would only do one head gasket so I am already doing more than he would do. I just wonder because the engine may not of been perfectly balanced to begin with.

I did call a local machine shop and explain that I am concerned that I may have warped a head. He added and burnt the valves too. So he suggested lettings him freshen up the heads( resurface & redo the seats) at $300 per side. This got me to thinking what would happen if he only freshened up the side that was leaking and I just replaced the gasket on the other side.

Since I have never heard of anyone resurfacing one one head I figured that I should ask. I know alot of people have only replaced one head gasket but this is just a little different., Good time to learn something new.

Mrvettenick

Based on the mileage. it's a toss up. If this is a street engine, and you're not serious about racing, and your budget is limited, I'd say it's worth a shot. But if this thing has over 50k on them, then it makes sense to do both. I would say it's your call, you have to live with it, especially since we don't know what condition the heads are in.

superdave269

It is or was a very strong street engine. Very low mileage only maybe 5K. Car sits most of the time. It's a project to get it out of the garage as other vehicles are parked in front of it. So I have to move a bunch to get to it. I have have a 38 Ford couple that really only comes out for the annual parade too. I hop once I retire to have more seat time with them.

Mrvettenick

Hey, if time and money are the issue, I'd give it a shot. You can make up the ..010 by using a little thicker head gasket to even it out. No one will know but you.

Rescue Rogers

Do both sides as you are changing the volume of the combustion chamber so it would increase the compression in just those 4 cylinders throwing your motor out of wack. Plus you would have the seats, guides and valves all cleaned up plus new seals...why have one side fresh and the other worn

Mrvettenick

We're not talking about a race motor, and a thicker gasket will solve the problem.

Rescue Rogers

Doesnt matter MrVette. Just a 3cc change can be almost half a point in compression. Why do a half assed job, we arent liberals here are we? You are not going to take a motor that only has 5000 miles on it and throw off the dynamic balance and chance it running shitty. JUst a few ounces on a tire can be felt and thats a lot lower RPM. Do you really think that the compressed gasket thickness is going to be exactly what is stated. YOu are going to buy 2 sets of gaskets any time you pop a cylinder head. I know its rare but you have to remember which side is what. Plus he needs to get the heads magnafluxed, hopefully thats in the price.

Also, Its just $300 DOLLARS more. $600 total which is a deal considering aluminum is close to 2 grand for the good stuff. YOu probably make $300 a day, probably more. For a strong running street motor as Super Dave says, I would just do both heads for cheap money on a budget or triple it and go aluminum.

I dont know what his bank account looks like but I would save for the aluminum

Mrvettenick

Everyone's budget is different. I laid out an option, which he has to make the final decision. I would still think a thicker head gasket, and we're talking .010 is not that big of a deal for a street engine.

superdave269

Rescue Roger & MrVetteNick I appreciate both of your points of view. Honestly the things that you mention are what has been running through my mind that's why I asked for more opinions and guidance.
I have heard of thicker gaskets but have not personally tried that trick.
The difference in compression was a big concern for me but I didn't know if I was making a mountain out of a mole hill.
Budget wise I had no budget as this was not something that I was planning on or was saving up for etc. It was an awe **** thing.
My kids are grown and out of the house now and college is behind us so yes I can find a way to pay for this unplanned repair. Having said that I don't like wasting money either.
So 2 heads freshened up is $600, double it buys me 2 new aluminum heads. Honestly not much difference. Full disclosure I want it fixed right and for as little as possible. Doesn't everyone. I do not want to do something dumb simply because I am trying to save a buck and later have everyone here say to me all you had to do was ask and we would of told you so. Many years ago I was up on these things and loved turning wrenches. Those days are behind me, not to mention that I have a bad back. I have reached the age not to be embarrassed to ask for help. Heck I haven't read a hot-rod magazine in decades. I'm a bit out of touch with building engines so I came here to you guys who have always been were helpful.
Thanks everyone

mongoose87

Maybe in your quest to asses the bearings you could remove the distributor and use one of those oil priming tools to see if you get somewhat okay oil pressure.
I think most would say you should be getting at least 20 lbs at idle, so if you get more than 20 lbs while turning the priming tool, you should be okay.
You could/should even make it more precise by only turning the priming tool a similar speed as the engine would be going at idle.
Let's say you run 750 rpm at idle, so you'd want to have around 375 rpm speed on the priming tool since it's being turned by the camshaft (1/2 as many turns as the crank).
I have this old rpm meter at my house for other projects, but they are cheap (like $20), and much cheaper than new bearings and your time.





many auto parts stores will rent you the priming tool.