Harmonic balancer wont budge
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 79
Likes: 16
From: Indianapolis
Harmonic balancer wont budge
It's always something isn't it?
So I rented the standard HB puller from Autozone. Got the bolts in as far as I could. Bolts were either junk or my dumbass crossthreaded them somehow but they flew out and stripped the threads in the HB.
Ok so on to plan B...3 jaw puller. It starts to budge but then I notice the dang center bolt is starting to freaking bend and the puller is about to slip off!!!
I watched all the videos ever and it looks like one good pop and then its just sliding off. Am I missing a step somewhere?
I really dont want to re-tap the holes as I have never done that before and we all know how tight it is in there.
Anyone have any good ideas besides rolling it out in the driveway and setting fire to it?
Thanks as always!
So I rented the standard HB puller from Autozone. Got the bolts in as far as I could. Bolts were either junk or my dumbass crossthreaded them somehow but they flew out and stripped the threads in the HB.
Ok so on to plan B...3 jaw puller. It starts to budge but then I notice the dang center bolt is starting to freaking bend and the puller is about to slip off!!!
I watched all the videos ever and it looks like one good pop and then its just sliding off. Am I missing a step somewhere?
I really dont want to re-tap the holes as I have never done that before and we all know how tight it is in there.
Anyone have any good ideas besides rolling it out in the driveway and setting fire to it?
Thanks as always!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 589
Suggest refrain from beating on damper; that can and will damage crank's main bearing inserts + thrust integral to #5 main.
Perhaps, spritz the hub-snout juncture w/ favorite penetrating aka break-away oil.
Perhaps, center bolt "should" have a separate, discrete conical bushing that slips over the end of center bolt; while bushing's cone tip fits into crank snout's bolt hole ?
Perhaps, puller's center bolt-hole threads need some hi-pressure lube.
If you pull hard-enough on outer inertia ring, you'll tear its rubber bonds loose (ruining it); plan now to replace damper.
Suggest you Re-thread/chase the three bolt holes & replace bolts w/ fresh Grade 8. Return to pulling using those three bolts and stop using jaw-puller.
If you "smear" damage the face of crank's snout; that alone can prevent hub from sliding past it.
Perhaps, spritz the hub-snout juncture w/ favorite penetrating aka break-away oil.
Perhaps, center bolt "should" have a separate, discrete conical bushing that slips over the end of center bolt; while bushing's cone tip fits into crank snout's bolt hole ?
Perhaps, puller's center bolt-hole threads need some hi-pressure lube.
If you pull hard-enough on outer inertia ring, you'll tear its rubber bonds loose (ruining it); plan now to replace damper.
Suggest you Re-thread/chase the three bolt holes & replace bolts w/ fresh Grade 8. Return to pulling using those three bolts and stop using jaw-puller.
If you "smear" damage the face of crank's snout; that alone can prevent hub from sliding past it.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 79
Likes: 16
From: Indianapolis
Suggest refrain from beating on damper; that can and will damage crank's main bearing inserts + thrust integral to #5 main.
Perhaps, spritz the hub-snout juncture w/ favorite penetrating aka break-away oil.
Perhaps, center bolt "should" have a separate, discrete conical bushing that slips over the end of center bolt; while bushing's cone tip fits into crank snout's bolt hole ?
Perhaps, puller's center bolt-hole threads need some hi-pressure lube.
If you pull hard-enough on outer inertia ring, you'll tear its rubber bonds loose (ruining it); plan now to replace damper.
Suggest you Re-thread/chase the three bolt holes & replace bolts w/ fresh Grade 8. Return to pulling using those three bolts and stop using jaw-puller.
If you "smear" damage the face of crank's snout; that alone can prevent hub from sliding past it.
Perhaps, spritz the hub-snout juncture w/ favorite penetrating aka break-away oil.
Perhaps, center bolt "should" have a separate, discrete conical bushing that slips over the end of center bolt; while bushing's cone tip fits into crank snout's bolt hole ?
Perhaps, puller's center bolt-hole threads need some hi-pressure lube.
If you pull hard-enough on outer inertia ring, you'll tear its rubber bonds loose (ruining it); plan now to replace damper.
Suggest you Re-thread/chase the three bolt holes & replace bolts w/ fresh Grade 8. Return to pulling using those three bolts and stop using jaw-puller.
If you "smear" damage the face of crank's snout; that alone can prevent hub from sliding past it.
So I am not following what you mean with Perhaps, center bolt "should" have a separate, discrete conical bushing that slips over the end of center bolt; while bushing's cone tip fits into crank snout's bolt hole ?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2025
Posts: 470
Likes: 131
From: Colorado
I pulled mine a few days ago. I used this Proform tool and it came out very easily, but my motor has been rebuilt in recent years, so things weren't rusted in. Highly recommend this tool but the cheaper one from Autozone should still work. I'd say search for some videos of that one and make sure you are using it correctly. Make sure to grease threads and contacting areas of the tool too.
Edit: I missed you have stripped threads. Maybe find some bolts that can be forced in the holes and still use the HB tool. I assume your HB is junk now anyway.
Edit: I missed you have stripped threads. Maybe find some bolts that can be forced in the holes and still use the HB tool. I assume your HB is junk now anyway.
Last edited by zxryder72; Jan 21, 2026 at 08:33 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,377
Likes: 6,376
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The center bolt is not used when pulling the balancer - it is removed, and a conical insert is installed into the removal tool.
If the 3 bolts stripped the threads out of the balancer, you used the metric bolts that are normally supplied with the tool. Try installing the tool as shown in my article here using the correct thread size bolts to see if they will "grip" on the remaining threads:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...blem-post.html
Lars
If the 3 bolts stripped the threads out of the balancer, you used the metric bolts that are normally supplied with the tool. Try installing the tool as shown in my article here using the correct thread size bolts to see if they will "grip" on the remaining threads:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...blem-post.html
Lars
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 79
Likes: 16
From: Indianapolis
I pulled mine a few days ago. I used this Proform tool and it came out very easily, but my motor has been rebuilt in recent years, so things weren't rusted in. Highly recommend this tool but the cheaper one from Autozone should still work. I'd say search for some videos of that one and make sure you are using it correctly. Make sure to grease threads and contacting areas of the tool too.
Edit: I missed you have stripped threads. Maybe find some bolts that can be forced in the holes and still use the HB tool. I assume your HB is junk now anyway.
Stephanie pulls a harmonic balancer off a chevy small block - YouTube
Edit: I missed you have stripped threads. Maybe find some bolts that can be forced in the holes and still use the HB tool. I assume your HB is junk now anyway.
Stephanie pulls a harmonic balancer off a chevy small block - YouTube
The puller tool looked so easy. Nope not for me...
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 589
Hey thanks man...yeah I'm never going to try to beat it off. Was gonna break out the crowbar first!😂
So I am not following what you mean with Perhaps, center bolt "should" have a separate, discrete conical bushing that slips over the end of center bolt; while bushing's cone tip fits into crank snout's bolt hole ?
So I am not following what you mean with Perhaps, center bolt "should" have a separate, discrete conical bushing that slips over the end of center bolt; while bushing's cone tip fits into crank snout's bolt hole ?
depending on manufacturer, some fit Over end of center bolt, others (as pictured) fit Into end of center bolt.
* many puller kits include include more than one size thread bolt to fit those three holes in hub. Perhaps ya started off on wrong foot by choosing wrong size bolts ?
Do also ensure you have all the kit's moving bits greased up !
* when ya borrow or rent tools that were previously used /abused by rookies, you might be bringing home rotten tools; just sayin'
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 79
Likes: 16
From: Indianapolis
See the conical bushings at top right?
depending on manufacturer, some fit Over end of center bolt, others (as pictured) fit Into end of center bolt.
* many puller kits include include more than one size thread bolt to fit those three holes in hub. Perhaps ya started off on wrong foot by choosing wrong size bolts ?
Do also ensure you have all the kit's moving bits greased up !
depending on manufacturer, some fit Over end of center bolt, others (as pictured) fit Into end of center bolt.
* many puller kits include include more than one size thread bolt to fit those three holes in hub. Perhaps ya started off on wrong foot by choosing wrong size bolts ?
Do also ensure you have all the kit's moving bits greased up !
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2025
Posts: 470
Likes: 131
From: Colorado
The center bolt is not used when pulling the balancer - it is removed, and a conical insert is installed into the removal tool.
If the 3 bolts stripped the threads out of the balancer, you used the metric bolts that are normally supplied with the tool. Try installing the tool as shown in my article here using the correct thread size bolts to see if they will "grip" on the remaining threads:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...blem-post.html
Lars
If the 3 bolts stripped the threads out of the balancer, you used the metric bolts that are normally supplied with the tool. Try installing the tool as shown in my article here using the correct thread size bolts to see if they will "grip" on the remaining threads:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...blem-post.html
Lars
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 943
Likes: 436
From: Dutchess county New York
I literally just cleaned mine up and put it away this morning That Proform tool has a conical bushing but also includes three double ended threaded adapters of different sizes. One end is for the crank snout and the other for the big main screw/bolt that that avoids any possible damage to the snout's threads. You don't need the conical bushing.
I just used a small 3 jaw puller to remove the crank sprocket and stuck a 7/16-20 grade 8 bolt & washer in the crank snout to give the puller's screw/bolt something safe to land on. You said the HB is toast anyway so if you wind up trying to use a larger 3 jaw puller and some heat I'd do that. It would suck to get the HB off only to find you boogered up the snout's threads. Incidentally, if you need to do the crank sprocket too I used that same Proform kit and a 2" section of old pipe I had laying around as a spacer to install the new sprocket. Put in the oven @ 350 for a half hour first and it slipped right on with virtually no effort - and no hammers.
Of course, since you very well might be using a torch on it you might have had the right idea right out of the gate. What's it insured for?
I just used a small 3 jaw puller to remove the crank sprocket and stuck a 7/16-20 grade 8 bolt & washer in the crank snout to give the puller's screw/bolt something safe to land on. You said the HB is toast anyway so if you wind up trying to use a larger 3 jaw puller and some heat I'd do that. It would suck to get the HB off only to find you boogered up the snout's threads. Incidentally, if you need to do the crank sprocket too I used that same Proform kit and a 2" section of old pipe I had laying around as a spacer to install the new sprocket. Put in the oven @ 350 for a half hour first and it slipped right on with virtually no effort - and no hammers.
Of course, since you very well might be using a torch on it you might have had the right idea right out of the gate. What's it insured for?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 589
Stuff happens, Soooo, I gotta ask ?
? Did You remove the damper's hex-head retaining bolt; that threads into crank's snout ?
as an aside:
The cheap-azz china ProForm install tool Not recommended. Years ago, New tool's first push snapped threaded tip off in crank snout. Garbage. Returned to ProForm and received No refund; but rec'd a replacement of SOS.
Upon that failure, immediately ordered a real tool from BHJ $$$, but worth every penny. I rarely loan gaging/tools; but, with a warning, have lent that crap ProForm out a couple times.
BHJ install tool P/N HD-1 is rock-solid and performs flawlessly; smooth as butter. Sadly, learned BHJ has recently ceased production of its automotive performance lines; thanks for the best of the best !
? Did You remove the damper's hex-head retaining bolt; that threads into crank's snout ?
as an aside:
The cheap-azz china ProForm install tool Not recommended. Years ago, New tool's first push snapped threaded tip off in crank snout. Garbage. Returned to ProForm and received No refund; but rec'd a replacement of SOS.
Upon that failure, immediately ordered a real tool from BHJ $$$, but worth every penny. I rarely loan gaging/tools; but, with a warning, have lent that crap ProForm out a couple times.
BHJ install tool P/N HD-1 is rock-solid and performs flawlessly; smooth as butter. Sadly, learned BHJ has recently ceased production of its automotive performance lines; thanks for the best of the best !
Racer
Joined: Sep 2025
Posts: 470
Likes: 131
From: Colorado
Stuff happens, Soooo, I gotta ask ?
? Did You remove the damper's hex-head retaining bolt; that threads into crank's snout ?
as an aside:
The cheap-azz china ProForm install tool Not recommended. Years ago, New tool's first push snapped threaded tip off in crank snout. Garbage. Returned to ProForm and received No refund; but rec'd a replacement of SOS.
Upon that failure, immediately ordered a real tool from BHJ $$$, but worth every penny. I rarely loan gaging/tools; but, with a warning, have lent that crap ProForm out a couple times.
BHJ install tool P/N HD-1 is rock-solid and performs flawlessly; smooth as butter. Sadly, learned BHJ has recently ceased production of its automotive performance lines; thanks for the best of the best !
? Did You remove the damper's hex-head retaining bolt; that threads into crank's snout ?
as an aside:
The cheap-azz china ProForm install tool Not recommended. Years ago, New tool's first push snapped threaded tip off in crank snout. Garbage. Returned to ProForm and received No refund; but rec'd a replacement of SOS.
Upon that failure, immediately ordered a real tool from BHJ $$$, but worth every penny. I rarely loan gaging/tools; but, with a warning, have lent that crap ProForm out a couple times.
BHJ install tool P/N HD-1 is rock-solid and performs flawlessly; smooth as butter. Sadly, learned BHJ has recently ceased production of its automotive performance lines; thanks for the best of the best !
Install tool not much help getting one out. Proform tool worked great pulling for me and from what I see looks higher quality than the cheap ones loaned out by auto stores. I'll be careful when I use it to install though.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 79
Likes: 16
From: Indianapolis
Stuff happens, Soooo, I gotta ask ?
? Did You remove the damper's hex-head retaining bolt; that threads into crank's snout ?
as an aside:
The cheap-azz china ProForm install tool Not recommended. Years ago, New tool's first push snapped threaded tip off in crank snout. Garbage. Returned to ProForm and received No refund; but rec'd a replacement of SOS.
Upon that failure, immediately ordered a real tool from BHJ $$$, but worth every penny. I rarely loan gaging/tools; but, with a warning, have lent that crap ProForm out a couple times.
BHJ install tool P/N HD-1 is rock-solid and performs flawlessly; smooth as butter. Sadly, learned BHJ has recently ceased production of its automotive performance lines; thanks for the best of the best !
? Did You remove the damper's hex-head retaining bolt; that threads into crank's snout ?
as an aside:
The cheap-azz china ProForm install tool Not recommended. Years ago, New tool's first push snapped threaded tip off in crank snout. Garbage. Returned to ProForm and received No refund; but rec'd a replacement of SOS.
Upon that failure, immediately ordered a real tool from BHJ $$$, but worth every penny. I rarely loan gaging/tools; but, with a warning, have lent that crap ProForm out a couple times.
BHJ install tool P/N HD-1 is rock-solid and performs flawlessly; smooth as butter. Sadly, learned BHJ has recently ceased production of its automotive performance lines; thanks for the best of the best !
Yeah the crank bolt is out
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,347
Likes: 8,158
From: Napa Valley California
Once you get the HB off the crank, check the cranks snout for hammer marks or other damage that can happen.
When you purchase the new HB double check the diameter of the crank and the inside diameter of the HB.
The new HB may need to be bored to the correct hole size to fit properly onto the crank snout.
It’s something that should always be checked when installing a new HB so it goes on and comes off as it should without much force.
When you purchase the new HB double check the diameter of the crank and the inside diameter of the HB.
The new HB may need to be bored to the correct hole size to fit properly onto the crank snout.
It’s something that should always be checked when installing a new HB so it goes on and comes off as it should without much force.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
I use the K-tool puller.....you will need to tap the balancer to metric if the threads are boogered.....the K-tool kit has metric bolts....it also has a "foot" on the end that mushrooms out so it doesn't screw up the crank hole or lead in taper.......
The biggest thing is to put moly on the threads of the puller........this is probably the most important thing.....don't fight the resistance of dry threads.....also, use an impact on the end to pop it from its frozen position.
Jebby
The biggest thing is to put moly on the threads of the puller........this is probably the most important thing.....don't fight the resistance of dry threads.....also, use an impact on the end to pop it from its frozen position.
Jebby
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: US-PNW
