SBC Top End Engine Kit
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Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 57
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From: Brighton, CO
SBC Top End Engine Kit
My 1973 L82 has been diagnosed with a blown head gasket. It is currently stock with about 42,000 original miles. So my son and I are considering doing a top end replacement like this one from Edelbrock:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...gaAs9YEALw_wcB
Has anyone had any experience with this Edelbrock Total Power Package 338 HP Small Block Chevy Top End Engine Kit. It looks to be a complete and cost effective head, cam, intake, and timing chain kit. Seems to be fairly straightforward to install. Any comment or advise is appreciated.
Thanks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...gaAs9YEALw_wcB
Has anyone had any experience with this Edelbrock Total Power Package 338 HP Small Block Chevy Top End Engine Kit. It looks to be a complete and cost effective head, cam, intake, and timing chain kit. Seems to be fairly straightforward to install. Any comment or advise is appreciated.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,707
Likes: 2,153
From: Minnesota
Not bad, but the biggest difference that kit will make compared to your stock engine is in the cylinder heads. The ones recommended in this thread are probably some of the best possible for a street driven 350.
That intake has a square bore carb mounting pattern, which will force you into that kind of carburetor. Holleys aren’t bad, an Edelbrock 1400 series would be a downgrade, and a spread bore adapter would be worse yet. Finding an Edelbrock 2101 with its dual mounting pattern will allow you to keep the factory Quadrajet, and will definitely fit under the stock hood as long as your air cleaner isn’t too crazy.
The cam in the kit has barely larger specs than the factory L82 cam (218/224 .464/.470 kit vs 222/222 .450/.460 L82.) If you’re not having issues with it I would keep it, but advance it by 4 degrees. This will give you more low end torque and responsiveness at the RPMs you’ll be using on the street. 1.6 ratio rockers will pick it up a little bit too.
A new timing chain is in order if yours is original. The gaskets and other small bits will nickel and dime you too, but overall you should come out ahead and have a better combination than a pre-made “kit.”
That intake has a square bore carb mounting pattern, which will force you into that kind of carburetor. Holleys aren’t bad, an Edelbrock 1400 series would be a downgrade, and a spread bore adapter would be worse yet. Finding an Edelbrock 2101 with its dual mounting pattern will allow you to keep the factory Quadrajet, and will definitely fit under the stock hood as long as your air cleaner isn’t too crazy.
The cam in the kit has barely larger specs than the factory L82 cam (218/224 .464/.470 kit vs 222/222 .450/.460 L82.) If you’re not having issues with it I would keep it, but advance it by 4 degrees. This will give you more low end torque and responsiveness at the RPMs you’ll be using on the street. 1.6 ratio rockers will pick it up a little bit too.
A new timing chain is in order if yours is original. The gaskets and other small bits will nickel and dime you too, but overall you should come out ahead and have a better combination than a pre-made “kit.”
Last edited by Piersonpie; Mar 2, 2026 at 07:57 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2025
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suggest before adding compression / heads of any sort, First test for compression & leakdown on each cylinder, ALSO drop pan and pull a rod cap at front & rear and pull a main cap ... read the bearing inserts & journals. There's a good chance motor may've shucked some of an OE cam sprocket's Nylon cladding; that may be crowded 'round-in oil pump pickup screen. Don't wanna place added stress on a lower end that may no longer be so robust.
JME: I'm no fan of top end kits such as that; seems each and every one is someone else's idea of what's really a compromise. Seldom is it ideal for but a few. Learn to pick what's ideal for You; or hire some experience.
If the OE heads are C/N 3973487 ? don't scrap em. Those're Not worth a ton, but someone in local roundy round hobby might need em.
JME: I'm no fan of top end kits such as that; seems each and every one is someone else's idea of what's really a compromise. Seldom is it ideal for but a few. Learn to pick what's ideal for You; or hire some experience.
If the OE heads are C/N 3973487 ? don't scrap em. Those're Not worth a ton, but someone in local roundy round hobby might need em.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 57
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From: Brighton, CO
Really appreciate all the advice. This is really deep waters though. My main reason for the kit was to avoid all these complex decisions since I'm out of my comfort zone. Assume that Edelbrock matches everything so that it at least works together well. I'm not looking to max out the engine power. Just want to get it more drivable with reliability. I could take it to an engine builder here in Denver, CO. But my son wants to tackle this, he and I. He's definitely braver than I. He's done this work before on GM LT1's in an old Firebird and on an old pushrod 5.0 in a 90's Mustang. So he does have some experience.
Lars has done Q-jet work for me before since he only lives 30 minutes from me. I'd like to keep the Q-jet if possible. It's in good shape.
Overall, great experience from you guys. Really good stuff!
Lars has done Q-jet work for me before since he only lives 30 minutes from me. I'd like to keep the Q-jet if possible. It's in good shape.
Overall, great experience from you guys. Really good stuff!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 1,713
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I get it: why many folk buy a kit; for many of the same reasons so many crate motors are sold.
I guess it's safe to assume all their parts will actually fit & run (not so hard with ubiquitous sbc); might also assume not optimal.
Suggest engage w/ Lars on this project.
I guess it's safe to assume all their parts will actually fit & run (not so hard with ubiquitous sbc); might also assume not optimal.
Suggest engage w/ Lars on this project.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
The thing with a kit like this, Edlebrock stuff is name brand decent quality stuff.
True. You could build more power with carefully selected parts. But, yes with this kit you can rest assured that the parts will work well together.
Bottom line is even though the Edlebrock heads may not be the absolute best for power output. They are heaps better than the factory heads. There intake manifolds are widely used and accepted. Maybe that cam isn't much bigger than a stock L82 cam. But it's still bigger and yet streetable.
If your a beginner at this. This is fairly safe in terms of matched parts and generally at a fair price.
Just my 2 cents.
True. You could build more power with carefully selected parts. But, yes with this kit you can rest assured that the parts will work well together.
Bottom line is even though the Edlebrock heads may not be the absolute best for power output. They are heaps better than the factory heads. There intake manifolds are widely used and accepted. Maybe that cam isn't much bigger than a stock L82 cam. But it's still bigger and yet streetable.
If your a beginner at this. This is fairly safe in terms of matched parts and generally at a fair price.
Just my 2 cents.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,936
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From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
People don't understand just. How good the L-82 actually is. Replace heads intake install headers as mentioned advance the cam 4 degrees 1.6 rockers and I think you will be surprised.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 701
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From: Aubrey TX
Its a nice package but I dont think you need to spend that much. I have a 73 L82. One of the original heads was cracked so I changed the heads to the Edelbrock heads (5089). I also upgraded to 1:5 rockers. The L82 cam is a great cam as is and my experience with just a head swap has been great. Qjet rebuilt by Lars, distributor recurve and the result has been a great driver with good power. If I had to do it again I would probably go with the AFR heads because they have the exhaust crossover where the Edelbrock heads do not. Lars explained why that matters. In my opinion the full kit would be something to seriously consider if you had an L48 but for an L82 the heads alone will be a huge improvement by themselves. Anyway, hope this helps
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
1.5 rockers and 1.6 are a wash price wise. Intake and headers remove the cork on intake and exhaust. Never been impressed with Edelbrock heads lots of other good ones
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Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 57
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From: Brighton, CO
I've heard that the 73 L82 is very similar to the 72 LT1 except for lifters. I might be wrong on that though.
I wonder if I can get the AFR heads fully dressed? I like your idea of just the heads, do the headers, recurve the distributor, and be done with it. Any idea of your HP level now?
I wonder if I can get the AFR heads fully dressed? I like your idea of just the heads, do the headers, recurve the distributor, and be done with it. Any idea of your HP level now?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,707
Likes: 2,153
From: Minnesota
Blueprint engines sell the heads they put on their crate engines fully dressed (here) for a pretty reasonable price. Comparing them to AFRs you might find they’re very similar.
On the other hand, the heads I suggested in post #2 can be had assembled or bare, but set up like this:
An L82 is closer to an L46 with its hydraulic lifters, intake, and pistons. They were rated at 350 gross in 1970, but your L82 with any modern style cylinder heads should be able to beat that then some.
On the other hand, the heads I suggested in post #2 can be had assembled or bare, but set up like this:
The components you listed are fine but use a 5746 Mahle head gasket (.028 crush) and you have to measure for pushrods....you can't and shouldn't just buy a set....you have to mock it up and check it....this cannot be skipped....wrong pushrod length is the #1 killer of valve guides....and is important for long valve tip life....
If this were my car....it would get a Trick Flow DH175 head....bare....or set up with a PAC 1.250 spring....but I would buy them bare and setup with a "Z/28" Elgin or Isky spring.....good valve control and not too much seat pressure for that old L-82 camshaft.
For rockers I use the Comp Magnum roller tip on something like this as it clears everything and is all you need....1.6 ratio.
Jebby
If this were my car....it would get a Trick Flow DH175 head....bare....or set up with a PAC 1.250 spring....but I would buy them bare and setup with a "Z/28" Elgin or Isky spring.....good valve control and not too much seat pressure for that old L-82 camshaft.
For rockers I use the Comp Magnum roller tip on something like this as it clears everything and is all you need....1.6 ratio.
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
A good part of the difference between the L-46 and LT-1 was in the intake manifold and carburetor that intake was a popular upgrade and closed the gap on those engines.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,079
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From: Marlton NJ
The L82 cam for all intents is the old 350-350HP L46 cam 224/224* duration.
Just with less compression, like 9:1 vs 11:1
And the edelbrock cam actually has less duration, only 218/224. So it is a downgrade.
Suggest keeping your cam if good lobes after inspection.
Increase the compression with good heads.
AFRs will be the best.
IIRC L82 pistons are forged but flat tops.
64cc heads would take it up to near 10:1.
It would be tough to get better than that.
73s have quiet mufflers.
Low restriction Magnaflows would help a lot, like 20+ HP.
An aluminum hi rise intake would help, but I would get one that fits the Qjet and keep it.
Stock 70s cylinder heads only flow around 188/140cfm.
AFRs 189cc street heads, CNC ported, flow 260/207.
That's a huge difference. Every cfm is about 1.6 HP, so they are worth 72 cfm, a LOT of HP.
Port volume is not much bigger 180 vs 161, so that keeps velocity & low-mid range TQ up.
10: CR makes it more efficient.
Same cam so the power curve is the same, just stronger.
I'd guess 425 HP.
What's not to like?
Just with less compression, like 9:1 vs 11:1
And the edelbrock cam actually has less duration, only 218/224. So it is a downgrade.
Suggest keeping your cam if good lobes after inspection.
Increase the compression with good heads.
AFRs will be the best.
IIRC L82 pistons are forged but flat tops.
64cc heads would take it up to near 10:1.
It would be tough to get better than that.
73s have quiet mufflers.
Low restriction Magnaflows would help a lot, like 20+ HP.
An aluminum hi rise intake would help, but I would get one that fits the Qjet and keep it.
Stock 70s cylinder heads only flow around 188/140cfm.
AFRs 189cc street heads, CNC ported, flow 260/207.
That's a huge difference. Every cfm is about 1.6 HP, so they are worth 72 cfm, a LOT of HP.
Port volume is not much bigger 180 vs 161, so that keeps velocity & low-mid range TQ up.
10: CR makes it more efficient.
Same cam so the power curve is the same, just stronger.
I'd guess 425 HP.
What's not to like?
Last edited by leigh1322; Mar 3, 2026 at 09:52 PM.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,079
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From: Marlton NJ
73 hood is about the same height as a 72 LT-1 hood. So an LT-1 intake would fit, but it fits square bore carb. They have maybe 1/2" to spare.
Eddy 7104 MIGHT fit, but Eddy 2601 would be safer.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 701
Likes: 335
From: Aubrey TX
I've heard that the 73 L82 is very similar to the 72 LT1 except for lifters. I might be wrong on that though.
I wonder if I can get the AFR heads fully dressed? I like your idea of just the heads, do the headers, recurve the distributor, and be done with it. Any idea of your HP level now?
I wonder if I can get the AFR heads fully dressed? I like your idea of just the heads, do the headers, recurve the distributor, and be done with it. Any idea of your HP level now?
Again, the E-Street heads are not bad but I wouldnt use them again.