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I want to install a passenger side mirror on my 1970. But I don’t want to use well nuts or jack nuts to secure it. I planned to use a backing plate to secure the mounting bracket similar to what is on the driver side. I have the glass out and see that the door frame has a metal boxed support. It starts at the top of the door and goes down about 1 1/2 inches then slopes into the door skin. Using the template supplied with the mirror and eyeballing the proper angle to drill, it would be going through the proudest part of the boxed area. A backing plate with lock nuts would likely interfere with the window glass travel.
About 20 years ago I installed a passenger side mirror on a ’72 that I no longer have. I used a backing plate and don’t remember having any problems or dealing with the boxed support. Is the door frame on the ’70 different than the ’72? Can anybody share their expertise?
I don’t want to drill holes and end up with unintended results.
Recently installed one on my 70 and have the same boxed area in the door... I did however use the provided rubber collapsing nut-serts with the mirror and worked very well... curious why you dont want to use them?
if memory serves is was two 3/8 holes and the screws tighten very well
Hello,
I believe the 72 and later doors had a steel 'crash bar' that ran horizontally from front to back of the door.
It was about 6 inches high.
The ends of it can just be seen in the jambs.
Is this what you're thinking about?
I didn't realize it could interfere with mounting the mirrors.
So you shouldn't have that in your 70 door.
Regards....
I want to install a passenger side mirror on my 1970. But I don’t want to use well nuts or jack nuts to secure it. I planned to use a backing plate to secure the mounting bracket similar to what is on the driver side. I have the glass out and see that the door frame has a metal boxed support. It starts at the top of the door and goes down about 1 1/2 inches then slopes into the door skin. Using the template supplied with the mirror and eyeballing the proper angle to drill, it would be going through the proudest part of the boxed area. A backing plate with lock nuts would likely interfere with the window glass travel.
About 20 years ago I installed a passenger side mirror on a ’72 that I no longer have. I used a backing plate and don’t remember having any problems or dealing with the boxed support. Is the door frame on the ’70 different than the ’72? Can anybody share their expertise?
I don’t want to drill holes and end up with unintended results.
Thanks to all for your input. Thanks Carriljc for the link. Dubs method certainly is the way to go. Some years ago, I saw a car where the use of wells eventually cracked the fiberglass. I really appreciate you members who share their knowledge and experiences.