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It has to do with the hardness of the cam gear. If I remember correctly if it is a billit or hard steel cam gear you had to run the bronze gear; other wise it would chew up the distributor gear. That was the compromise you had to make to run a roller cam. That has since changed with softer distributor gears (iron) on less aggresive roller cams. With the poly gear you can run the agresssive ramps and it will not wear.
I was sceptical a plastic gear would wear like it does; but mine has lasted very well with .650+ lift and 7000 rpms.
According to the article, Tom's diff has already stood up to 1200hp nitrous equipped vettes running 8's!
That setup was using a spool.. I'm going with the posi setup.. The spool can't really be used on the street. First of all - the car won't turn too well and second it'll wear down the wearings due to very high stress on the axle bearings during turns...
header studs are cheap insurance, no change of stripping threads, loads distributed more equally, gaskets install easier, fewer chances of leaks... I don't see any reason why not to do it..and they are pretty reasonable priced.
header studs are cheap insurance, no change of stripping threads, loads distributed more equally, gaskets install easier, fewer chances of leaks... I don't see any reason why not to do it..and they are pretty reasonable priced.
Well - I already installed the header bolts... Maybe I'll switch to studs later..
Aluminum heads threads strip very easy if you cross thread a bolt. A cheap $40 or so set of studs makes hanging the gaskets and the pipes on EZ
Really - you can can install a new bronze gear But the metal flake oil and bronze in the bearings is a little tougher to get out. In motors that you change the oil and filter everyday after using them. To check and change the bronze gear periodicaly is not a big deal. We were forced to use them. But when somebody makes a better unit why not?
When I had my old engine, the only time when I disconnected the headers was when I pulled the engine... There's no reason at all to pull the headers off at any time.. What do I need more than 1 7/8 headers and 4 inch open sidepipes
I went with the bronze gear and I'm glad I did because I found out afterwards that my Mallory distributor gear has the cross-pin hole drilled off center so I had to drill a hole into the new bronze gear for it to fit
I thought you already put a new AR Racing engine in awhile back? Am I remembering correctly? If so, what happened to that one, and who built this one? What are specs on this one?
When I had my old engine, the only time when I disconnected the headers was when I pulled the engine... There's no reason at all to pull the headers off at any time.. What do I need more than 1 7/8 headers and 4 inch open sidepipes
You're not thinking like a racer... don't expect anything to work perfectly forever...
Well, I'm running open 4 inch side exhaust... Someone might call the police on me...
How would you hear if anything is wrong with open exhuast?? YOur engine was dynoed before???
I believe in a full exhuast for firing a motor so I can hear if something doesn't sound right and shut down before something get too galled.
Looking good
I also like my hearing and too much running around with open side pipes will destroy your hearing. The big questions is how soon, not will it???
That setup was using a spool.. I'm going with the posi setup.. The spool can't really be used on the street. First of all - the car won't turn too well and second it'll wear down the wearings due to very high stress on the axle bearings during turns...
If you are using this car on the street and it sound like it how can you get away with open pipes, What about noise pollution, your hearing and annoying everyone else. Open exhausts have no place on the street.
Hope you don't have to open a window.
Those valve covers are only temporary.. I want to get some fabricated covers.. However - I want covers on which I can re-use my wire looms..
Another good idea is installing studs in the valve covers, well not in the covers but in the head. 1/4 inch extra long set screws screwed only finger tight in the head makes installing valve covers really easy.
Slide the gasket over the studs, holds perfectly, install the cover and use self locking nuts and small washers.
Gaskets never slip.
If you are using this car on the street and it sound like it how can you get away with open pipes, What about noise pollution, your hearing and annoying everyone else. Open exhausts have no place on the street.
Hope you don't have to open a window.
And do you know what serious racers think about guys cruzin' around the streets with uncapped headers?