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[PICS] New engine is in!!

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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 11:34 AM
  #41  
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Bronze is only good for 100's of miles even with careful attention to setting the cam button at .004 or so

Polymer Carbon fiber are rated in the 25- 50K mile range.

Alumiunum heads need header studs and they make exhaust changes a breaze.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 11:35 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 69 N.O.X. RATT
It has to do with the hardness of the cam gear. If I remember correctly if it is a billit or hard steel cam gear you had to run the bronze gear; other wise it would chew up the distributor gear. That was the compromise you had to make to run a roller cam. That has since changed with softer distributor gears (iron) on less aggresive roller cams. With the poly gear you can run the agresssive ramps and it will not wear.

I was sceptical a plastic gear would wear like it does; but mine has lasted very well with .650+ lift and 7000 rpms.

Good luck on the new motor Oliver
I can always change it if it wears too bad...
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 11:38 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by gkull
Bronze is only good for 100's of miles even with careful attention to setting the cam button at .004 or so

Polymer Carbon fiber are rated in the 25- 50K mile range.

Alumiunum heads need header studs and they make exhaust changes a breaze.
I have no plans on changing anything on my exhaust. Used regular header bolts and they seem to work fine..
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 11:39 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I hope that the rear end will hold up... I talked with Tom's and they are confident that it'l hold up...
According to the article, Tom's diff has already stood up to 1200hp nitrous equipped vettes running 8's!
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 11:45 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Boofers
According to the article, Tom's diff has already stood up to 1200hp nitrous equipped vettes running 8's!
That setup was using a spool.. I'm going with the posi setup.. The spool can't really be used on the street. First of all - the car won't turn too well and second it'll wear down the wearings due to very high stress on the axle bearings during turns...
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 11:54 AM
  #46  
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header studs are cheap insurance, no change of stripping threads, loads distributed more equally, gaskets install easier, fewer chances of leaks... I don't see any reason why not to do it..and they are pretty reasonable priced.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 11:59 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
header studs are cheap insurance, no change of stripping threads, loads distributed more equally, gaskets install easier, fewer chances of leaks... I don't see any reason why not to do it..and they are pretty reasonable priced.
Well - I already installed the header bolts... Maybe I'll switch to studs later..
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 12:43 PM
  #48  
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Aluminum heads threads strip very easy if you cross thread a bolt. A cheap $40 or so set of studs makes hanging the gaskets and the pipes on EZ

Really - you can can install a new bronze gear But the metal flake oil and bronze in the bearings is a little tougher to get out. In motors that you change the oil and filter everyday after using them. To check and change the bronze gear periodicaly is not a big deal. We were forced to use them. But when somebody makes a better unit why not?
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 12:52 PM
  #49  
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When I had my old engine, the only time when I disconnected the headers was when I pulled the engine... There's no reason at all to pull the headers off at any time.. What do I need more than 1 7/8 headers and 4 inch open sidepipes
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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I went with the bronze gear and I'm glad I did because I found out afterwards that my Mallory distributor gear has the cross-pin hole drilled off center so I had to drill a hole into the new bronze gear for it to fit

Lookin good GS
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 02:23 PM
  #51  
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Grandsport---

I thought you already put a new AR Racing engine in awhile back? Am I remembering correctly? If so, what happened to that one, and who built this one? What are specs on this one?
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 02:38 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
When I had my old engine, the only time when I disconnected the headers was when I pulled the engine... There's no reason at all to pull the headers off at any time.. What do I need more than 1 7/8 headers and 4 inch open sidepipes
You're not thinking like a racer... don't expect anything to work perfectly forever...
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 03:09 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Schmucker
You're not thinking like a racer... don't expect anything to work perfectly forever...

Schmucker - Your right! It just never occurred to me about having a Vette that I never work on. I can safely bet that my Ford 4X4 doesn't have studs.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 05:58 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Well, I'm running open 4 inch side exhaust... Someone might call the police on me...
How would you hear if anything is wrong with open exhuast?? YOur engine was dynoed before???
I believe in a full exhuast for firing a motor so I can hear if something doesn't sound right and shut down before something get too galled.
Looking good
I also like my hearing and too much running around with open side pipes will destroy your hearing. The big questions is how soon, not will it???
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 06:23 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Well, I'm running open 4 inch side exhaust... Someone might call the police on me...
Got the cops called on me--4 cop cars later we all agreed that a original Cobra would also be nice 'have a nice day officer
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 07:34 PM
  #56  
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you may wanna offer them a set of ear plugs!
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:33 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I can always change it if it wears too bad...
Bronze also deposits itself in your oil. After numerous changes I contacted comp cam and found out I could run the stock hard steel gear.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:38 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
That setup was using a spool.. I'm going with the posi setup.. The spool can't really be used on the street. First of all - the car won't turn too well and second it'll wear down the wearings due to very high stress on the axle bearings during turns...
If you are using this car on the street and it sound like it how can you get away with open pipes, What about noise pollution, your hearing and annoying everyone else. Open exhausts have no place on the street.
Hope you don't have to open a window.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Those valve covers are only temporary.. I want to get some fabricated covers.. However - I want covers on which I can re-use my wire looms..

Another good idea is installing studs in the valve covers, well not in the covers but in the head. 1/4 inch extra long set screws screwed only finger tight in the head makes installing valve covers really easy.
Slide the gasket over the studs, holds perfectly, install the cover and use self locking nuts and small washers.
Gaskets never slip.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:44 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
If you are using this car on the street and it sound like it how can you get away with open pipes, What about noise pollution, your hearing and annoying everyone else. Open exhausts have no place on the street.
Hope you don't have to open a window.
And do you know what serious racers think about guys cruzin' around the streets with uncapped headers?
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