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It looks like it in the picture, but no, it’s a slimy gray gunk that I think is old oil that got blended up with water (which explains why it’s heavier).
I'm really excited to see if this engine will free up and rotate!!! If you get it primed and then rotating, are you going to just replace the head gaskets since you're almost there or are you going to wait?
I'm really excited to see if this engine will free up and rotate!!! If you get it primed and then rotating, are you going to just replace the head gaskets since you're almost there or are you going to wait?
If you get the engine freed up, then he could do a compression test. or a leakdown test or both. even though the results would be poor because the rings will need to be ran for a while to reseat. if they do. which i think they will.
but depending on the OP’s skills, a head gasket would be a wiiiise choice. root cause most likely a blown head gasket for sure.
I'm really excited to see if this engine will free up and rotate!!! If you get it primed and then rotating, are you going to just replace the head gaskets since you're almost there or are you going to wait?
Very good point about the head gaskets. But, this leads you down the slippery slope of how far to go on an engine that may be well past its prime. If you do go ahead and pull the heads that will allow you to check cylinders for pitting or cracks and would allow you to get a better idea as to the condition of the heads. You might even spot an area on the headgaskets where they were obviously leaking. Bit of a gamble either way you go but you aren't that far away from a better understanding of what happened to this engine by pulling the heads now. My only concern would be if it does have a cracked block from no antifreeze. That might not be apparent even with the heads off.
Yes, it's a good point about changing the head gaskets. I was thinking about this myself - that if I get the engine turning I'm going to have to replace several gaskets before reassembly, not even including heads, i.e. intake, plenum and runners, EGR tube, EGR valve, etc. So we are talking some money here, and I have to balance that against the likelihood of this engine failing relatively soon even if it runs again. As Viking said I figure I'll start with a compression test and see how bad it is.
Of course this whole conversation is moot if it stays seized or there's a bent rod or something I can't see
I see that it is still showing some of the milkshake but that's to be expected. Might want to drop the oil again before trying to get it to break loose. At least you know the oiling system is functioning. How long did you have it spinning?
I see that it is still showing some of the milkshake but that's to be expected. Might want to drop the oil again before trying to get it to break loose. At least you know the oiling system is functioning. How long did you have it spinning?
Not sure how long - maybe 20 secs? Oil didn’t come through all lifters at first, but eventually all of them started seeping.
I did try with a screwdriver on the flywheel to turn it - no luck yet. Kind of hard to find a good pry location.
Tonight was a fail, but that’s ok, it was a first try. Cylinders are soaking with Marvel Mystery Oil (don’t know what’s in it - it’s a mystery). Good call on the flywheel tool - will get one and try again tomorrow. I also see that if I get the right size breaker bar I have enough space to try the crank bolt, so will pick up one of those at Hobo Freight. Goin full on Vice Grip Garage tonight!
That crank bolt looks a lot smaller than I thought it would be 😬
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am using the 7000 lb capacity Quickjacks (love them by the way), so much more stable support than jack stands. Not that I still shouldn’t worry about exerting too much force on the vehicle anyway.
The flywheel turner doesn’t seem to be available at Harbor Freight, nor at any other local parts store. I ordered one from Amazon but unfortunately there wasn’t one that would come by tomorrow (gotta wait til Wednesday). Will give it a try tomorrow anyway with my pry bar, but unless it comes loose pretty easy will have to wait another day.
Best Thread in a while, rooting for a free spinning engine. Looking at your latest pictures from the first ones you posted looks like night and day. So far you are getting very sound advice. keep going. I agree the head gasket on one bank probably blew and it overheated. Once you get it rotated and do the compression test you would have a better idea. I would break her free and then pull the oil pan and clean the crank also pull the heads and work on each cylinder to free up stuck rings and look at the cylinder walls. One question, how many miles on the odometer? If it is under 100K or 150K you would have a better idea of your next step. Keep going we are all having a popcorn fest living vicariously through your experience, thank you for the entertainment beats what's on TV lol... Cheers - Jarrod
Best Thread in a while, rooting for a free spinning engine. Looking at your latest pictures from the first ones you posted looks like night and day. So far you are getting very sound advice. keep going. I agree the head gasket on one bank probably blew and it overheated. Once you get it rotated and do the compression test you would have a better idea. I would break her free and then pull the oil pan and clean the crank also pull the heads and work on each cylinder to free up stuck rings and look at the cylinder walls. One question, how many miles on the odometer? If it is under 100K or 150K you would have a better idea of your next step. Keep going we are all having a popcorn fest living vicariously through your experience, thank you for the entertainment beats what's on TV lol... Cheers - Jarrod
Thanks - glad you guys are enjoying watching this story unfold! I’m enjoying it myself, and no matter what ends up happening I’m learning a lot.
There is an issue with the LCD display so I can’t see current mileage. However I found an old oil change receipt from 2018, very shortly before it went out of commission, that noted 120,621, so it’s probably close to that.
If the engine is frozen in place don't force it with the crank bolt or use a flywheel turner (you'll end up with skinned knuckles). Get a crank turning tool, they're cheap, I actually put studs in my balancer so I can slip this on anytime I want.
