When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yep, Welding works. Before I welded on them though, b/c that is a "commitment", I'd try pounding a slightly-too-big Torx socket (probably a T40?) into the hex hole, then heat the block around the plug.....Don't hold back on the heat.....and then thread it right on out of there.
I'd save the welding for a Plan B, if that didn't work.
I think you could use a easyout and some heat from a propane torch. Or, take it to the machine shop where you are going to get your heads rebuilt. I'm sure they would have the tools/expertise to get it out. The problem with using an easy out is how shallow the indentation is. Not a lot of depth for the teeth to get a grip on. It will be more of a process of heating it enough that it breaks the bond and then an easy out could remove it. I'm with you on not wanting to be drilling and chance getting shards of metal into that fresh rebuild.
I think you could use a easyout and some heat from a propane torch. Or, take it to the machine shop where you are going to get your heads rebuilt. I'm sure they would have the tools/expertise to get it out. The problem with using an easy out is how shallow the indentation is. Not a lot of depth for the teeth to get a grip on. It will be more of a process of heating it enough that it breaks the bond and then an easy out could remove it. I'm with you on not wanting to be drilling and chance getting shards of metal into that fresh rebuild.
Yeah, using an easy out requires drilling out the middle at least. I tried this on one side - the easy out was gripping really well but it’s on damn tight. I was twisting with the easy out and was afraid it would break. Didn’t try heat though- should have thought of that. Ended up drilling a little bit wider and the easy out is too small, so now I’m at a point where all I can do is fully drill it out and hope I don’t ruin the original threads, and run a tap through to clean up. Hope it turns out ok.
Other side is still as pictured. I could drill it through like I tried initially on the other side, then heat it up good with the easy out again.
Tríed heat/easy out/quenching it, nothing seemed to work. Bought the right size drill and tap set and drilled it out, carefully, upside down so metal fell away from the block, and then was able to pull the remnants out without damaging the original threads. On to the next challenge!
I’ve been out of town for about a week so will be digging back into this project again tomorrow.
Some good news and bad news…
Bad news first. The heads I purchased came and at first glance looked great. But when I took them to the machine shop they found problems and suggested I return them and find others. Both had cracking at the middle most bolt area, and a steel sleeve had been inserted. One had some JB Weld applied:
(Black marks are just pen ink)
One of the original heads is repairable so I’m looking again for a single 113 or a matching pair. Posted in the parts wanted section.
Good news is about my search for a roof panel. The only targa top that the car came with was an acrylic one that was cracked up the middle. I wasn’t relishing paying up to $1k for a good used fiberglass one. No cheaper options near home, but while I was traveling in Pennsylvania I saw someone selling one on FB Marketplace… for $50!! It is in rough cosmetic shape, but no cracks:
I’d call that a win! I just need to repair some surface defects and repaint - another thing to learn.
Found some heads and they're on their way. Second time is the charm?
Question... The guy who sold me the block gave me lifters with it. I put them in place and then noticed they don't all match. One in particular looks to have a smaller oil hole:
In this pic you can see three different lifters. Is this OK?? I suppose I could use one (or all) of my old lifters in place but given the nasty oil that was in it and rusty pushrods I'm kind of leery. Is it a dumb idea to even reuse any of them?
Also, since this is the first time I'm putting lifters in, does orientation matter? I saw a note on one site about the side oil hole needing to be oriented toward the valley, but the FSM doesn't mention this detail at all.
IDK why the lifters have different hole sizes, but I'd guess that it doesn't matter for your type of build.
Lifter orientation doesn't matter.
Reusing old lifters ain't the BEST idea....but for this type of build I think it's fine. I'm putting together a junk 400 right now, for the Kart. I sourced my roller lifters from the junk yard.
I didn't notice if you noted but are those lifters roller type? If they are I don't think they will make any difference but if they are used flat lifters I don't think I would want to use them on a new cam. They would have some wear pattern and likely wouldn't have a good break in with the new cam.
Thanks for the feedback - they're roller lifters. I'll leave them and hopefully all will be good. All the rollers seemed fine.
Another fresh question... After looking back at other threads and doing some research (one of you mentioned this as well), stock valve springs won't allow enough lift for the ZZ4 cam. Seems like folks have used LT4 springs previously. But...*any* stock LT4 springs? The part numbers that many old threads referred to seem discontinued. I'll ask the machine shop, but if they want me to buy my own parts how should I figure out the best option? Even the ones that the Chevrolet Performance site refers to for this cam don't seem to be available anymore. Here's the cam description:
Was JUST about to lower the short block back into the car for the first time, and realized the old flexplate had damaged teeth, so now off to Autozone for a new one...
Last edited by Incipheus; May 22, 2023 at 12:15 PM.
Is that a crack inside the runner to the left side of the picture also? I woulds say that the area at the gasket face could be filled but if the whole area has cracks then it might be better to find another one.
Is that a crack inside the runner to the left side of the picture also? I woulds say that the area at the gasket face could be filled but if the whole area has cracks then it might be better to find another one.
You may be right - I took as close of a look as I could, cleaned the area again, and it was hard to tell if that was a continuation of the crack or just a surface detail. But considering these intakes seem to be around $125 on EBay probably better to get a different one. The repair of the visible crack will probably be something around that cost anyway, I’m guessing.
I actually started down the path of “well, if I have to replace the intake…” but that could end up being too much of a $$ sink for this car and I’ve already gone way past my previous experience level on this project.
Finally got my freshly rebuilt heads back, and replacement intake manifold, and time to continue work on this car! With luck I just might be able to fire it up within a few days!
I thought head gaskets always come in pairs, found out just as I went to put the first head on that I only bought one Ah well, they’re in stock nearby.
You're making some progress. Looking forward to seeing you getting it back on the road. Once you get it running you can go on to finding what you really have as to the rest of the powertrain. Hopefully the next post will be a video of it running!
Potentially a minor snag today - got both heads on and torqued, which was great. But started preparing to place the pushrods and tighten rockers and came to the conclusion that my old pushrods are just too nasty, and I’m a bit worried that regardless stock ones will now be too short and/or weak to work the new springs etc. According to the machine shop tension is now about 330 lbs when open, which exceeds the rating of the stock pushrod replacements I’m seeing (for example Melling MPR373 which say max 300 lbs). I think I’ll do the Sharpie marker test with one of the old stock ones just to see how close it is with regard to length. But it might take a few days to get new ones if I need something special. Am I over thinking this?
” but that could end up being too much of a $$ sink for this car and I’ve already gone way past my previous experience level on this project.
Ah well, they’re in stock nearby.
