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The throttle body is the real clearence problem on the hood. Where the air bellows bolts to the tb is about 3/4 in above the hood. Moreso than the front of the plenum.
You can angle cut/weld the tb mount pad to drop the front of the tb. Then mill 3/4 in from the runners and that will put the plenum below the hood.
Or you can build a plenum out of 1/4 in aluminium with the above and put it under the hood.
The HSR fuel rails will clear with the plenum down about an inch. Then you start hitting the cables linkage bracket, and fuel rail mount bolt holes which you can tig mount pads on the sides of the plenum. Of course, if you angle the TB forward at the top (lowers the front of the TB) you can remount the cables linkage bracket upward.
Shortening the runners raises the rpm level of the intake and kills more bottom end torque.
This is from my experimenting.
johnny
BTW slalom4me, the distributor install/removal is not a problem with the plenum in place.
Last edited by johnnyevans; Jan 15, 2006 at 03:04 AM.
You can use any TB on the HSR, that will physically bolt to it. If you're running a manual, you can do away with the lower part of the bracket, or if you're running one of the electronic trans you won't have a tp cable anyways, or if you've modified to fit on an LT1. Not hard to do btw, and you can lower the plenum even more, no tstat housing. Clearence for the tstat housing is not a pain either, use the TPIS mini tstat housing.
The throttle body is the real clearence problem on the hood. Where the air bellows bolts to the tb is about 3/4 in above the hood. Moreso than the front of the plenum.
You can angle cut/weld the tb mount pad to drop the front of the tb. Then mill 3/4 in from the runners and that will put the plenum below the hood.
Or you can build a plenum out of 1/4 in aluminium with the above and put it under the hood.
I have borrowed a TPI throttle body now and hood clearance is not an issue at all. It is plenty of space.
I will have to use the cruise control location for the throttle wire and cut the throttle wire thingie off to clear the fuel rail.
The thermostat housing is a minor problem. I can remove the IAC housing and use a block off plate instead, that is no big deal to me. It might be enough to just grind the water passage off.
Any difficulties with welding the casting? Any special steps?
About the interfererence between the IAC and the thermostat housing.
I know you have limited space to plumb from the turbo - but for a
naturally aspirated combination, what is your opinion about a spacer
between the plenum and the throttle body to push the TB forward?
Would 50mm (2") be sufficient ?
If you have interferance with the IAC, I like the spacer idea. But you could also consider blocking off the thermastat hole by welding it shut and relocating the the thermastat block just like the LT1 conversion.
BTW, will you be getting any flow bench testing before you install the intake on the car?
Some very good work here. Would it be possible to cut some off the fuel rail and retap it for the brass fitting to get the clearance for the throttle lever to turn?
Some very good work here. Would it be possible to cut some off the fuel rail and retap it for the brass fitting to get the clearance for the throttle lever to turn?
Actually it is not a problem. The throttle lever already turns freely. I removed the pin for the trottle and connected the throttle wire to the cruise control pin.
Just as a FWIW. On my StealthRam setup I had a ~300 degree difference in EGT's between my hottest and coolest cylinders. At the Cruise-In drag day on the last pass my #1 cylinder was 1705 and #8 was 1403. Couple of days later with a nitrous plate with dry 90 degree nozzles biased towards the front cylinders the EGT difference came down to ~180. The cylinder temps stepped back pretty much in pairs, ie. 1+2 were pretty much even, 3+4 cooler, 5+6 even cooler, 7+8 coolest. I'd be interested in seeing if tilting the plenum down in the front might help in balancing the manifold.