Now let's see....
454 small block ? 434 small block?
A big block in a C-4 Hum?
434 sbc 15.1 11x brodax heads Stahl headers? 1 7/8 that just barley
fit's between the frame and block on a sbc 434?
Broken "T" top first pass,cracked hood and nick on both front doors.
2 blown 700R4's on the 3 rd one,Which is a Monster trans 700r4 reverse shift.
Runs 10's at 137.54 mph SBC has A Barry Grant 1095 Dominator.
engined dynoed at 687 with 577 TQ and can and is set up with a 300 shot with a Zex primeter plate 2 stage.
Will this 86 c-4 hold together?
Idno?

 

full cage?
no cage?
any extra reinforcements?
X-Brace?
stronger targa piece?

lots left out from that story, and i also assume it was a D44 running slicks and probably dead hooked a couple times.

i seriously doubt my crossmember will flex any serious amount now. next work is on the frame itself. the crossmember will actually be braced to the frame and frame will be braced front and back of motor with additional underneath once the car is about tidied up and everything underneath is finished to determine room and clearances.

car will wind up with a full roll cage similar to ski's car and his is still in one piece. my goal is not to twist the thing into a pretzel...

honestly, i'm more worried about the trans and rear then chassis flex right now. if the 700R blows, i'll be going T400 no doubt, as anyone else should do after the first blown trans.

 

well guys, guess what??

MOTOR AND TRANS ARE IN! - and permanently i might add!

the alternator is sitting way high for my taste but what ya gonna do...that's what el cheapo brackets will get ya. we'll see if that's a problem later.

i now have a full 3" of clearance from the balancer face to steering rack, and the cog drive just fits with the V groove for PS on the end.

time to start building around the motor, cause that's what it feels like im doing now. it's simply huge...and i'm glad the big part is now complete!

 

Well, i've started the LONG process of rebuilding everything. motor & trans are in permanently, so are C-beam and driveshaft. everything underneath the car drivetrain-wise is done...

i've started to re-run what little of the harness i'll still be using. trans wires are hooked up as are starter & such. all grounds have been run but not hooked up. the inner fender is back in as well...

i need to get the cooling ystem in order, and run me some transmission lines and fuel lines...those are the next big projects...

and now the pics

on the hoist


EMPTY HOIST!!!


Driver's side header clearance


small hole in firewall...next time i'll be careful to check motor angle upon reinstallation


straight on shot...in all it's glory


motor to modified HVAC cover


passenger side header clearance


firewall clearance at back top of motor

 

just checking in with everyone...

i had to remodify the HVAC cover for slightly more clearance...and i used a good epoxy and glue so it's not gonna come apart.

next up on the plate is either ignition or fuel system

just to let you know i haven't given up, but just working alot...

 

wow...2 weeks without an update? figured i gave up? nah...

i got my MSD 6AL mounted and wires ran. eliminated crusie control and the box sits right above the brake booster using some custom plexiglas/right angle metal brackets. it is very secure...

my spicer u joint isn't in yet...i hate my local parts shop

my stock hood went on a diet. all crossfire ducting has been cut away. i have a 7x7 square hole iin the hood that *should* line up with the intake. i figure the intake base should almost protrude from the hood meaning i'm prolly looking at a 4-6" cowl. cops will love it

also, with all the discussion about C4 beam plates going on, i figured i'd take the time to bust out the welder again. if 4 simple little plates help to stiffen the C-beam ever so slightly then what happens when we link those 4 plates so essentially the C-Beam is sandwiched tightly in 1/4" x 3" steel? my line of thought is way stiffer than stock. also will allow for easy installation of driveshaft loops, custom drivetrain bracing, etc...i might have enough left over to actually make make the side of the C-Beam as well...we shall see. this will not be reinstalled until my U-joint is back in place...

below is said pic of top side of my C-Beam sandwich -

 

Well, went out to get started and fired of the torches...damn, out of oxygen! trip 2 to welding supply store will hopefully be oday. if not the the bottom C-Beam plate is on hold and ignition/general wiring will commence. Probably should also start removing some interior.

 

good reading

 

15:1 compression. Good for a drag car, not for street or road race. That's exactly why I went with a Big Block in my C4. Making more power with 10:5. 1/4 in 10.0s spinning, standing mile 201.82 and 180mph on the back straight at Virginia International Raceway, www.virclub.com. Will idle below 800rpms. Will run 93 octane, http://sonnysracing.com/products/eng...-555-820hp.htm
And still have a 300 shot to go. Car weights 3050# with 10 gallons of fuel in drag trim. Full interior and A/C.

Fubar569,

Sorry I've seen this thread so late. You can see pics on my web site. www.3cracing.com. My engine is a little lower in the chassis. My crank pulley is down and behind the power steering rack. I can send detailed pics if you want.

 

so you moved the motor down & back? that's kinda nice. i wanted to make mine as direct of a bolt-in as possible. the crossmember notch and rack weren't bad to make/move at all. it's sitting right where it has to in the chassis now.

i see you have a 9"
how much did that run you? since i am dead sure i'll be needing one if i hit the strip.

feel free to pepper me with all the pics you want...that is a very trick machine you have...standing mile in 200+mph is insane.

 

The Dana 44 will live if you don't run slicks. I had a '91 auto with a stock 44/half shafts and ran many 10.3s 1/4' miles with slicks. Never broke it. But I know people running 11-12s break them because they were/are running a lot of gear, 3.73 and up. I always ran the stock 3.07. No one very believed me but it was the truth. Big torque = less gear. IMO!

I did break a half shaft once but I think it was because I wasn't straight in the burn out box. One tire in the water and the other one wasn't.

I don't remember the price, conversion in 1999, had the cage and trans cross member done at the same time. I would definitely recommend:
Ken Keir Race Cars
301-855-4988
7605 Ginger Ln
Owings, MD

I'll try to take more detailed pics of the 9" and trans x-member.

Thanks.

 

i almost forgot that would have to be fabbed if you went solid axle. would there be any benefit to having one even if you stayed with the IRS?

 

That's cool man! Do you have any trouble cooling that BBC? I am having some trouble cooling my 532....

 

I don't think so.

 

No cooling problems. Even when on a road course for 30-40 minutes. I'm normally aspirated, you're forced induction? Big difference.

 

Yes, I have a procharger F2. I did install a small radiator (10.5X24") in the rear that is fed by 3/4" heater hose. That helped a lot, the car does not get hot at idle, but at speed on the highway. So, obviously I have an airflow problem. Today I ordered an AO through the bumper air difuser. I will use this as a vent to blow directly on the front radiator, then I should be fine... What kind of headers did you use? I custom made 2.25" headers but would love to have been able to buy them off of the shelf. Sorry Fubar to highjack your thread...

 

Custom 2.25" headers. I think Hooker BBC '70 vette headers are a close fit. I thought about forced induction on a SBC but was worried about the heat generated for 800+ horsepower. Especially road racing.

Good luck.

 

no worries guys, it's all big block related so it's all good...the more we share and the more we get this knowledge out there, the less people will fear doing this conversion. it really isn't all that bad!

it's nice to know the hookers are at least a close fit. i may have to try to find a pair on the cheap and modify as nessesary.

i think it's a good general guess that the stock radiator is pretty insufficient for the job at hand. since i eliminated the AC i have to radically modify the shroud. the radiator will sit as afr forward in the shroud as possible and the top/bottom modified to fit and bolt-in as stock. at least that's the plan anyways...

i've completed relocation of the oil pressure sender/switch and extension of related wiring. spicer joints installed in driveshaft and shaft is reinstalled. torches are being refilled tomorrow i believe so i can make small progress over the rest of the week regarding C-Beam.

my stock shift cable is toast. it was an unfortunate biproduct of not double-checking everything before engine removal. **** happens i guess? oh well, gives me a good excuse to install a ratchet shifter.

still have yet to locate suitable PS brackets for SWP. anyone know where i can get a set? or just casually keep an eye out and notify me of any for sale...cause then you'd be my hero...

and i think that's about it for today. local shop is basically giving me 95 bucks to blow when i want, so it's time to come up with a list of miscellaneous stuff and cash in on the freebies. score!

 

Well blew up another 700r4 the monster trans
I agree with the stock gears I run the D44 with 3.33.
8 point roll bar.
R&D main bar and built off of that to start.
You for got to mention the carb,if you use a dominator it is a 77&*^&
to get full throttle.

 

hopefully it lives a little longer for me, otherwise i'm gonna go the TH350/400 route. cheap, plentiful, and handles a ton of power. losing OD will suck, but i don't have the money for a 4L80E