That is the right one.

 

Ok Thank you much I went to that site you recommended but they did not have a Helms .......SO I figure I better get the Helms since thats what everyone says to do.............

 

and you're gonna be one happy camper

 

Ok I purchased the book and got 2 other electrical manuals as well only problem is about 6 days to get there............BUT I am 1 happy man now look out Service Engine Soon light your butt is mine

THANKS TO ALL OF you for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I too had this problem on my 93. code 32. replacing the egr valve would sovle it for a while. One time it didnt and changing the sensor/solenoid back there did. Eventually when cruising on the highway it would pop back on. a downdshift to 4th and redlining 4th and 5th and it would dissapear.

I too think you should clean the egr passageways. Mine were clogged up when i removed the intake.

 

That IS the one for a 1988 Corvette.

Any person, book, or resource that says "a CODE 33 which according to the book means a bad MAF sensor or relay." is absolutely full of...you know what. All a code 33, or any other code, tells you is that information was set from the named (in this case the MAF) device that didn't match up with the parameters of what the ECM expected to see, given the inputs from other sources. The FSM will tell you, in most cases, what has to occur in order for a code to be set. It is very possible that the conditions that caused the code to be set occurred OUTSIDE of the system that set the code. And that the sender of the code is operating properly. Of course, it is possible that the sender of the code is defective, but as I say, "Don't shoot the messenger". As a simple example: If you get a code that indicates a rich mixture from the O2, do you replace the O2 sensor? Or do you trouble shoot to SEE if the O2 is bad and to check if there really IS a rich mixture? It COULD be a bad O2 sensor, a stuck injector, or??? The trouble shooting charts in the FSM will help you track the problem to the precise cause. For all the parts you've replaced, it looks like you narrowed the problem down to a system, and then used the shotgun approach and replaced anything that could contribute to the system readings. Careful, organized trouble shooting will more often than not, lead you to the exact defective item, which you can specifically TEST before you replace it. It is apparent from your opening post that the $105.00 Helms manual could have already paid for itself, had it been available and utilized.

I'm still curious what "I have my own restr i checked all the requirements" means.

RACE ON!!!

 

 

spelled the word wrong.........I have my own "Code Reader" OBD 1 and OBD 2 . I got tired of going to mechanics and paying for them to do what I was fully capable of doing......... So when I checked for codes what i told you was from reading the codes from my reader.and using the haynes book to understand what they meant.......BUT I guess I was wrong for doing that...............So now with all this great help.I have the right book on the way and I WILL solve this problem...........

 

 

Like I said-you're gonna be a happy camper, I think you've got a handle on it now. BTW, most of us use a paper clip or jumper wire on the OBD1s to read codes. I believe the EGR solenoid is gonna take care of it.

 

I could not imagine what that typo meant. Thanks.

It appears a solution will be forthcoming. I agree with not wanting to pay others for what I can do, however, in THIS case you have already spent a bundle. It is a lot easier to help someone that has some direction.

RACE ON!!!

 

Hey guys I have another question while I am waitng for my book to get here. When you replace a component like I have do you need to clear the codes before you start the engine? And I believe that most are saying just disconnect the neg terminal on the battery for about 15 seconds. Is this correct?

Thanks Again!

 

Yes, disconnect battery to clear the code. Heres some reading from the bible.
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2032.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/EGR%20System.pdf

 

Can anyone PDF the Helms EGR section info. for a 92 LT1 Corvette?

I don't have my Helms manual yet, but it's on the way and I like to troubleshoot my Code 32 issue this weekend.

 

OK I need to take a second and THANK EVERYONE on this site. I fixed my problem this weekend with the HELMS book. First thing I did was I threw out that damn Haynes Book .it was the best move I made.

This morning the 88 ran GREAT turned out I had some intermint codes stored , got rid of codes and got rid of problem, further trouble shooting I found a loose wire on the EGR thermal switch.repaied and no more problem. AGAIN THANK YOU to everyone who got me straight!!!!!!!!!!

Save the Wave

 

glad it worked out.

 

That may have been the most expensive loose wire you've ever had. Remember, "Don't shoot the messenger".

RACE ON!!!

 

you are not going to believe this BUT ITS BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!! back to the helms book again....same problem today 9 mile's down the road light comes on.......shut car off and restart no more light!!!!!!!

 

some folks swear by the helms fsm, but its not perfect (ask g kilibrew if you don't believe me)

reason your mil comes on--your 88 does a ''self-check'' of the egr under certain precise conditions---one of those conditions requires an rpm and time combination which will only occur while driving at moderate speed with no change in throttle position...during this ''self-check'' the ecm fiddles with the egr position and expects to see an o2 sensor reading change--if no change occurs, the ecm thinks there is a problem in the egr and turns on the mil.
sorta sound familiar?
note that even pressing/lifting gas pedal may interrupt ''self check" and no mil results.

if you have changed the egr valve, solenoid, and sensor (known good used ones are better for troubleshoot than new-new ones occasionally not functional) and verified no wiring problems and replaced the ecm as the "holy helms" sez, and still have the problem---guess what--time to throw parts at it.
not blindly , tho...look above--note o2 sensor and tps switch are looked at by the ecm as part of this little game

 

I have heard and read about a similar problem where the MAP sensor was bad causing the engine light to come on at times. If it does not respond quick enough, the voltage the PCM expects is wrong. I realize this is a reach but something that is not really checkable but would need to be replaced to see outcome. Keep in in mind for something else to try.