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After reading the post yesterday and making a post of my own, it got my mind going.
I'm running a modded ECU but its a loner for now from a guy in Toronto that has a Dyno and tune shop. He's going to take the car once I'm done with it and map it out for me, give me the best ECU for it. I'm not changing heads though.
I called him and we're looking at mid May for when I can get in and get set up. I'm convinced that the advantage I have is the full port and polish. I'm going to slap in a set of bored out throttle bodies also. I'm certain I'm going to run low 13's.
So now my issue is traction. Being that most of my power starts at about 100 kph (sorry canadian, 60mph), why is traction such an issue? Anybody got tricks, except for changing tires, on how I can get more?
The new vettes are running 11's stock (sorry, that's the ZR-1) and traction is an issue also...
Marty,
Sorry but the stock cylinder heads suck. Even with the TFS heads I had, power would peak between 4500-5000rpm. Torque peak was at 3800rpm.
Also, the more power you make the less adequate the stock injectors are. In order to get more fuel, you either need to run a higher FP, or use larger injectors. In either case the Base Pulse Width won't be small enough for good control of idle. The correction for that is using larger injectors but in parallel. They don't make larger injectors in flow capability to allow you to retain the staggered relationship the stock ones have. So you'll need to use the BB injectors, either 80 or 90 lbs.
Some things among many to think about when it comes to modding a Xfire
Yeah, I hear you. While I wouldn't go as far as to say that the heads "suck", they're not the best. I like the iron heads because they maintain the heat better.
I've looked at different plumbing options and bigger injectors. I know that the second I go that way I'm looking at some major issues with the ECU and I will need better mapping if I even want it to run right at all. Right now it runs...
Do we have anybody that's installed a TBI nitrous kit?
I can't see myself adding anymore power, especially if I start spraying, if I'm already having traction problems. Has anybody seen solutions to this issue?
Yeah, I hear you. While I wouldn't go as far as to say that the heads "suck", they're not the best. I like the iron heads because they maintain the heat better.
You just have to love it! The guy asking the questions disputing the answers of the guys that have been there, done that. The heads don't "suck" because the are cast iron. They "suck" because they have small, restrictive, ports. In addition, the 624 heads are prone to cracking. Other than that, they are just peachy.
Dominic had one of the quicker NA Crossfires around. He was even honored by a magazine article that featured his car. He and I didn't always agree on everything, but his accomplishments are proof that his thoughts are not to be taken lightly.
For thousands of dollars less than Dominic invested, my worn out stock long block Crossfire runs high 13s.
I too have the CF in my 84. I can't say I have had ANY problems with it. It has 138000 miles on it and is stock except for exhaust at this time. The 350 is peppy enough unless you really have a need to race, which when caught these days is almost $1000.00. I do intend to open the intake as I have already picked up another CF manifold. This way I can do my porting at my leisure and then it will be a fairly simple swap out. As far as daily driving,I find it to be very reliable as a daily driver with reasonable pickup from light to light and fairly good on gas about 22mpg all around. lol.
Well anyway, good luck with the new car and only do what YOU think you need. The more high speed alterations can also make it more vulnerable to breakdowns. Remember she is fairly old and should be treated with respect.
Woody
In order to get more fuel, you either need to run a higher FP, or use larger injectors. In either case the Base Pulse Width won't be small enough for good control of idle. The correction for that is using larger injectors but in parallel.
MY correction for that, which for me worked very well, was to replace the stock Fuel pressure regulator, GM Part number 17113186, but retaining the stock CFI spring, in the new regulator. This regulator is a Vacuum referenced unit, like you see on port injected engines, so at idle, cruise and decel you cut fuel pressure...and therefore, delivery. On my combo, I was making over 300 chp, using 90pph "Big block" injectors. Mine idled like completely stock, smooth, so for ME and my combo, that solution worked well. On my set up, I was seeing 15 PSI at WOT, and about 10 PSI at idle. It worked awesome for me.
So you were running same FP I was on my 350 for idle.
I had the 80# BB injectors instead and WOT FP was 20psi.
Were you running // lines or TBs still in series?
And what was your FP at cruise? What AFR were getting at
WOT? IIRC, you had a 400cid. My regulator was a
Aeromotive 13301 with vacuum port.