Header Installation Question
My '88 (L98) is pretty much stock with the exception of a gutted cat and a Power Effects exhaust. I can't say I'll be doing anything to the intake anytime soon and I don't expect to do anything major to the car.
Which headers would be the easiest to install without any type of cutting/welding/etc? So far it looks like TPiS and Exotic Muscle are the two I should be looking at but I'd like more information from the "experts" (that's you all). I'm really more concerned with ease of installation than expected power gain so if it means I have to go with 'shortys', a smaller size, etc please don't hesitate to say it I am looking for as many opinions and recommendations as I can get.
Oh and please tell me if there are any concerns I should be aware of (O2 sensor, "rear alternator support", etc)
Thanks!
Last edited by Frogr1701; Sep 10, 2009 at 10:40 AM.

I just went through my header installation and here's the list of things that I had to do:
>fabricate stand offs for the oil dipstick tube, AC compressor, and alternator
>install a gear reduction starter because the headers hit the stock starter, this required lengthening the starter wires and grinding the flywheel inspection cover to clear the starter gear
>replaced the oil dipstick tube and passenger's side coolant sensor due to some damage during removal and installation
>put some reflective insulation tape on the condensor box
>modified the oil cooler adapter to allow it to pivot about 5 degrees closer to the oil pan because the lines were hitting one of the primaries
> cut down a spark plug socket and drilled a 1/2" hole through it so I could tighten down the plugs on the passenger's side.
Luckily, I didn't have to grind the steering coupler or grind the body crossmember brace.
This is a doable project, but be prepared for an adventure. Hope for the best, expect the worst. Good luck!
@ (everyone else): Thanks for the input. I guess I should of posted this in earlier but I cannot do anything with the current stock manifolds because of a recent problem...and that is a long story in itself but long story short it will be more cost effective for me if I were to just replace them with something 'newer'.
It looks like shorty's are the route I'm leaning heavily towards right now. I realize the power gains are almost negligible (from what I've read about half the HP gain versus the longtubes, if that) but if it's something I can pretty much "bolt on" (or slip on I guess) then it will be that much easier on me (and the mechanics working on this + factoring cost on my part).
Last edited by Frogr1701; Sep 10, 2009 at 08:53 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
@ (everyone else): Thanks for the input. I guess I should of posted this in earlier but I cannot do anything with the current stock manifolds because of a recent problem...and that is a long story in itself but long story short it will be more cost effective for me if I were to just replace them with something 'newer'.
It looks like shorty's are the route I'm leaning heavily towards right now. I realize the power gains are almost negligible (from what I've read about half the HP gain versus the longtubes, if that) but if it's something I can pretty much "bolt on" (or slip on I guess) then it will be that much easier on me (and the mechanics working on this + factoring cost on my part).
The TPIS long tubes are bolt on with no fabrication needed.
After some more digging and searching it looks like TPiS Longtubes are in fact the target header (I had considered Melrose in addition to). I have one remaining question. According to the "C4 Header Instructions" document on their website, step seven reads:
"7. Trial fit your catalytic converter to the Y-pipe. On cars with slip fit converters it will be necessary to have a muffler shop expand your converter slightly to fit the Y-pipe."
Since I am still an initiate, could I get a much clearer definition on a "slip fit converter"? I have consistently read that this entire system is pretty much "bolt on" that if necessary could be done in a garage with the right tools (which I do not have) so this is a sort of "quad-check". (for reference: mine is a stock converter [1988 Convertible] that has been internally gutted).














