Header Installation Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164
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From: Orlando FL
Header Installation Question
I'm interested in installing headers on my '88. I've searched through the forums and found great information but I wanted a "triple-check" on my research.
My '88 (L98) is pretty much stock with the exception of a gutted cat and a Power Effects exhaust. I can't say I'll be doing anything to the intake anytime soon and I don't expect to do anything major to the car.
Which headers would be the easiest to install without any type of cutting/welding/etc? So far it looks like TPiS and Exotic Muscle are the two I should be looking at but I'd like more information from the "experts" (that's you all). I'm really more concerned with ease of installation than expected power gain so if it means I have to go with 'shortys', a smaller size, etc please don't hesitate to say it I am looking for as many opinions and recommendations as I can get.
Oh and please tell me if there are any concerns I should be aware of (O2 sensor, "rear alternator support", etc)
Thanks!
My '88 (L98) is pretty much stock with the exception of a gutted cat and a Power Effects exhaust. I can't say I'll be doing anything to the intake anytime soon and I don't expect to do anything major to the car.
Which headers would be the easiest to install without any type of cutting/welding/etc? So far it looks like TPiS and Exotic Muscle are the two I should be looking at but I'd like more information from the "experts" (that's you all). I'm really more concerned with ease of installation than expected power gain so if it means I have to go with 'shortys', a smaller size, etc please don't hesitate to say it I am looking for as many opinions and recommendations as I can get.
Oh and please tell me if there are any concerns I should be aware of (O2 sensor, "rear alternator support", etc)
Thanks!
Last edited by Frogr1701; Sep 10, 2009 at 10:40 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 143
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From: Chesapeake VA
Watch out for burnt plug wires. Everything gets quite a bit warmer under the hood with headers. I had a set on my Bronco and my Wrangler and you can bet I won't put a set on the vette. But- if you do get them, get the quality ones. I have used Banks and Heddman Hedders, both the bottom line product- go for the stainless ones that won't get surface rust and look nasty after a month.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,642
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From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Usually 1 5/8" long tubes are easier to install than larger sizes. I don't care for long tubes on a stock street car but that's personal preference. Shorty headers (if good quality) are easier to install. Why not take your stock ones off and paint or coat them, they are actually shorty headers anyway.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 82
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From: Nowthen MN
I love the color of your car! You are on the right track with the TPIS or EM from what I have heard as far as ease of installation.
I just went through my header installation and here's the list of things that I had to do:
>fabricate stand offs for the oil dipstick tube, AC compressor, and alternator
>install a gear reduction starter because the headers hit the stock starter, this required lengthening the starter wires and grinding the flywheel inspection cover to clear the starter gear
>replaced the oil dipstick tube and passenger's side coolant sensor due to some damage during removal and installation
>put some reflective insulation tape on the condensor box
>modified the oil cooler adapter to allow it to pivot about 5 degrees closer to the oil pan because the lines were hitting one of the primaries
> cut down a spark plug socket and drilled a 1/2" hole through it so I could tighten down the plugs on the passenger's side.
Luckily, I didn't have to grind the steering coupler or grind the body crossmember brace.
This is a doable project, but be prepared for an adventure. Hope for the best, expect the worst. Good luck!
I just went through my header installation and here's the list of things that I had to do:
>fabricate stand offs for the oil dipstick tube, AC compressor, and alternator
>install a gear reduction starter because the headers hit the stock starter, this required lengthening the starter wires and grinding the flywheel inspection cover to clear the starter gear
>replaced the oil dipstick tube and passenger's side coolant sensor due to some damage during removal and installation
>put some reflective insulation tape on the condensor box
>modified the oil cooler adapter to allow it to pivot about 5 degrees closer to the oil pan because the lines were hitting one of the primaries
> cut down a spark plug socket and drilled a 1/2" hole through it so I could tighten down the plugs on the passenger's side.
Luckily, I didn't have to grind the steering coupler or grind the body crossmember brace.
This is a doable project, but be prepared for an adventure. Hope for the best, expect the worst. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
@ 1BAD88: Thanks a lot! I thought so too after looking at 400-something swatches and wanted something unique. Now your list of instructions, is that for longtube headers?
@ (everyone else): Thanks for the input. I guess I should of posted this in earlier but I cannot do anything with the current stock manifolds because of a recent problem...and that is a long story in itself but long story short it will be more cost effective for me if I were to just replace them with something 'newer'.
It looks like shorty's are the route I'm leaning heavily towards right now. I realize the power gains are almost negligible (from what I've read about half the HP gain versus the longtubes, if that) but if it's something I can pretty much "bolt on" (or slip on I guess) then it will be that much easier on me (and the mechanics working on this + factoring cost on my part).
@ (everyone else): Thanks for the input. I guess I should of posted this in earlier but I cannot do anything with the current stock manifolds because of a recent problem...and that is a long story in itself but long story short it will be more cost effective for me if I were to just replace them with something 'newer'.
It looks like shorty's are the route I'm leaning heavily towards right now. I realize the power gains are almost negligible (from what I've read about half the HP gain versus the longtubes, if that) but if it's something I can pretty much "bolt on" (or slip on I guess) then it will be that much easier on me (and the mechanics working on this + factoring cost on my part).
Last edited by Frogr1701; Sep 10, 2009 at 08:53 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,149
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From: Glenbeulah Wi
@ 1BAD88: Thanks a lot! I thought so too after looking at 400-something swatches and wanted something unique. Now your list of instructions, is that for longtube headers?
@ (everyone else): Thanks for the input. I guess I should of posted this in earlier but I cannot do anything with the current stock manifolds because of a recent problem...and that is a long story in itself but long story short it will be more cost effective for me if I were to just replace them with something 'newer'.
It looks like shorty's are the route I'm leaning heavily towards right now. I realize the power gains are almost negligible (from what I've read about half the HP gain versus the longtubes, if that) but if it's something I can pretty much "bolt on" (or slip on I guess) then it will be that much easier on me (and the mechanics working on this + factoring cost on my part).
@ (everyone else): Thanks for the input. I guess I should of posted this in earlier but I cannot do anything with the current stock manifolds because of a recent problem...and that is a long story in itself but long story short it will be more cost effective for me if I were to just replace them with something 'newer'.
It looks like shorty's are the route I'm leaning heavily towards right now. I realize the power gains are almost negligible (from what I've read about half the HP gain versus the longtubes, if that) but if it's something I can pretty much "bolt on" (or slip on I guess) then it will be that much easier on me (and the mechanics working on this + factoring cost on my part).
The TPIS long tubes are bolt on with no fabrication needed.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
I am still appreciating the recent posts.
After some more digging and searching it looks like TPiS Longtubes are in fact the target header (I had considered Melrose in addition to). I have one remaining question. According to the "C4 Header Instructions" document on their website, step seven reads:
"7. Trial fit your catalytic converter to the Y-pipe. On cars with slip fit converters it will be necessary to have a muffler shop expand your converter slightly to fit the Y-pipe."
Since I am still an initiate, could I get a much clearer definition on a "slip fit converter"? I have consistently read that this entire system is pretty much "bolt on" that if necessary could be done in a garage with the right tools (which I do not have) so this is a sort of "quad-check". (for reference: mine is a stock converter [1988 Convertible] that has been internally gutted).
After some more digging and searching it looks like TPiS Longtubes are in fact the target header (I had considered Melrose in addition to). I have one remaining question. According to the "C4 Header Instructions" document on their website, step seven reads:
"7. Trial fit your catalytic converter to the Y-pipe. On cars with slip fit converters it will be necessary to have a muffler shop expand your converter slightly to fit the Y-pipe."
Since I am still an initiate, could I get a much clearer definition on a "slip fit converter"? I have consistently read that this entire system is pretty much "bolt on" that if necessary could be done in a garage with the right tools (which I do not have) so this is a sort of "quad-check". (for reference: mine is a stock converter [1988 Convertible] that has been internally gutted).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
