Twin Turbos
Positive or Negative comments are welcome
84 is forgeed and with gears headers, ETC you can probabaly pick up a couple of seconds atleast.There is an article somewhere of an 84 that was sooped up cheap and nitrous and now a fast car.
just google it.
unless you have plenty of money tools and fab potential then change everything out and twin turbo it.
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I guess what I 'm trying to point out is that while doing a turbo install can be a great learning experience, if the basic engine is not up to the task of handling a big increase in power, there is a distinct possibility of finding pieces of metal and fluid on the ground along with possibly having large cooling holes in the block
And with 125K miles on the engine in your car, that's more of a reality than a possibility.I would suggest that you first concentrate on doing a rebuild of the motor. Concentrate on quality parts for the bottom end. Good bearings, proper machine work based on the mods you want to do, the correct pistons and rings to support the boost levels anticipated, and a suitable cam.
You have to consider the necessary cylinder head work too; valve springs to match the cam, rocker arms that will work with the cam specs, port matching of the intake, and finally proper assembly of the entire engine. The 84 iron heads may be OK to start, but later aluminum heads will provide a much better base for building power.
Once you have a foundation that will handle power increases, then you can start the planning for the turbos.
I guess what I 'm trying to point out is that while doing a turbo install can be a great learning experience, if the basic engine is not up to the task of handling a big increase in power, there is a distinct possibility of finding pieces of metal and fluid on the ground along with possibly having large cooling holes in the block
And with 125K miles on the engine in your car, that's more of a reality than a possibility.I would suggest that you first concentrate on doing a rebuild of the motor. Concentrate on quality parts for the bottom end. Good bearings, proper machine work based on the mods you want to do, the correct pistons and rings to support the boost levels anticipated, and a suitable cam.
You have to consider the necessary cylinder head work too; valve springs to match the cam, rocker arms that will work with the cam specs, port matching of the intake, and finally proper assembly of the entire engine. The 84 iron heads may be OK to start, but later aluminum heads will provide a much better base for building power.
Once you have a foundation that will handle power increases, then you can start the planning for the turbos.
when i first rebuild my engine i came here 2 years ago and i felt like
all the guys here didn't want to help me or they keep turning my ideas down, i follow their advices,because what they say is because they have been there and they are giving you the shortcuts,and making you avoid a terrible failure ! There is no way your engine with 125K will live longer,i had to rebuild it 2 years ago with 126K ...and when i first got here i started asking for 500 hp and wanted more power...i rebuild it healthy and mild,now 2 years later i got rid of my stock heads/intake and zz4 cam and just now i want some more.-

This picture was taken the day i knew i had to rebuild.-
My bet is REBUILD healthy first,then turbocharge it !
Last edited by Calderone; Oct 3, 2009 at 12:18 PM.




I sooo agree with this approach. I also think that he should go for it, if his engine blows the first day, is he really out anything? Unless of course he takes something out that he just purchased, which is unlikely. And so if he has to do something over, or 2 or 3 times, that just helps the learning process even more. I say DO IT and tell us all about it during the process. If you have some success, go get the parts to make it bulletproof and then turn the dial up to 11 on that old, stock motor and videotape its destruction! Reminds me of the good ol' days when we would strip down a 2.2 turbo car like a Lebaron or New Yorker and rig the wastegate to not open until about 16 pounds of boost and try to break it. There was a article in Mopar Action called "12 seconds for 1200 bucks". Great fun.
i haven't thought about it !
But this is from the experimental point of view only.-
Yes its a insurance or test mule engine before the real one to make sure the turbo works
i like it !
But after that ...a rebuild is a must !
And if the motor goes TU because of a catastrophic failure due to the HP increase, he will be without a car that much longer. And deeper into his wallet.
At least with a rebuild or some sort of fresh motor, he will still have a car that will run strong and be dependable. And he still hasn't commented about his experience level with regard to working on the C4, much less a budget level.




And if the motor goes TU because of a catastrophic failure due to the HP increase, he will be without a car that much longer. No, because he hasn't spent his rebuild money yet. If he grenades the rebuilt motor, he has to wait until the money is replenished. And deeper into his wallet.
I disagree. At least with a rebuild or some sort of fresh motor, he will still have a car that will run strong and be dependable. Not if there is a failure caused by the fueling or spark control. And he still hasn't commented about his experience level with regard to working on the C4, much less a budget level.
I guess what I 'm trying to point out is that while doing a turbo install can be a great learning experience, if the basic engine is not up to the task of handling a big increase in power, there is a distinct possibility of finding pieces of metal and fluid on the ground along with possibly having large cooling holes in the block
And with 125K miles on the engine in your car, that's more of a reality than a possibility.I would suggest that you first concentrate on doing a rebuild of the motor. Concentrate on quality parts for the bottom end. Good bearings, proper machine work based on the mods you want to do, the correct pistons and rings to support the boost levels anticipated, and a suitable cam.
You have to consider the necessary cylinder head work too; valve springs to match the cam, rocker arms that will work with the cam specs, port matching of the intake, and finally proper assembly of the entire engine. The 84 iron heads may be OK to start, but later aluminum heads will provide a much better base for building power.
Once you have a foundation that will handle power increases, then you can start the planning for the turbos.
I'm expecting my engine to last a little bit with a low boost level without doing work to it but I am being realistic and going into this project with in mind that my engine can go at any given moment.
Last edited by eilax053; Oct 3, 2009 at 04:10 PM.

















