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i don't know exactly where in north carolina you are but i live in conway south carolina and have a few peoples cars i work on in north carolina. if its isn't too far i wouldn't mind swingin by as a second set of eyes.
That sounds good! I'm probably 1 1/2 hours from Conway on a good traffic day. Just west of Laurinburg (25 miles) on US#1 in Aberdeen. I could meet you half way if that would help.
Sure, tomorrow.
The strange thing is, it's never done this before until that day at the dyno and now today. Coincidence?????
Maybe the extra power twisted the steering column, restricting the keys ability to leave.
J/K
I would try to think how the car was handled by the dyno team. People have had the car run like crap on a dyno due to vibration, such as exhaust hitting something causing the timing to be retarded.
Maybe the extra power twisted the steering column, restricting the keys ability to leave.
J/K
I would try to think how the car was handled by the dyno team. People have had the car run like crap on a dyno due to vibration, such as exhaust hitting something causing the timing to be retarded.
Nothing that I can think of. He did it the same as always. And the other guy at RPM didn't do anything weird either. I have heard these PCMs can do some weird stuff after they have been played with a few times. The only thing other than the the no start issue is the radio light will not go off until I can start it back up again. The PKE works the lights work just won't crank over. Beats me!
Nothing that I can think of. He did it the same as always. And the other guy at RPM didn't do anything weird either. I have heard these PCMs can do some weird stuff after they have been played with a few times. The only thing other than the the no start issue is the radio light will not go off until I can start it back up again. The PKE works the lights work just won't crank over. Beats me!
Weird about the radio. Reprogram your PKE, and make sure the radio is off.
I know there is a security feature where if you try to start the car too many times is a certan amount of time, there will be no start for over five minutes.
Well guys, I can't get this software to work so I gues it's no data logging. I can see the results but I can't save it so you can. I took the car around the block just to see if I could save it to a CSV file. It's saves it but it's delimited text whatever that is. The program is Autoenginuitgy if any of you are familiar with it. It's probably me not knowing wtf I'm doing but that's the way it is for now. Guess we'll have to wait until I can get it on a dyno to see for sure how it runs.
I know there is a security feature where if you try to start the car too many times is a certan amount of time, there will be no start for over five minutes.
Weav, there is nothing wrong with the valve seals you described. Prime the oil the way you were planning, and let it fire!! I can't wait to hear the update.
-Mike
Bad Recommendation; I call 'em as I see 'em;
I just hope not too many follow it.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
Mike, I'm sorry to read about your latest series of problems. I truely hope you get things worked out.
I've decided that since you're receiving so much differing and bad information/recommendations (the too many cooks in the kitchen analogy) and that you seem to be accepting some of it, I'm going to drop out of this now.
I wish you all the best, and I'm out.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
Jake, you need to open up your mind and realize not only your opinion is right, and many times it is wrong because you base your opinions strickly from the experience with your 96.
Don't make me post the many arguments you have on other forums.
I really wish you wouldn't do that Jake. This is a public forum so I expected to have many opinions. It's up to me to choose the ones I use. There is more than one way to skin a cat and most of the time the result will be the same. You're obviously a by the book kind of guy. I kind of wish I had all the resources to be that way myself but I don't. Please reconsider and let me choose which opinion or way to go with. Besides, the motor is back together now and I'm hoping for the best on the dyno.
Just thought I’d come back and update this long a** thread. Didn’t want to leave so many hanging.
As you know I had issues after my cam install. You can read up on what they were here.I tore it all back down to retrace everything I did. This included checking the degree on the cam to make sure it was correct. It was correct and the cam and crank sprockets were correct also. I also had the springs checked for open and seat pressure. 150 lbs on the seat with a open pressure of 350 lbs. When putting it all back together I changed the optis out. I put the old one I knew was good back in to try it. The car seemed to run pretty good and I had plans to take it to a dyno in a few days just to see how well it did run. Well, the car had different ideas about that. I had driven it to town on a Sat. afternoon. It had started running a little rich but I didn’t think much about it. When I went out Sunday to crank it up to check some readings it refused to start. It would turn over but not crank. I had installed a new FPR I got from Autozone and I thought it might have gone bad and just flooded the car out. No dice on that one. I then proceeded to check spark at the plugs and coil. It had a good spark at both. The smell of gas was very strong though so I knew something wasn’t right. It was suggested my opti was the problem after the dyno runs showed such a lousy result so I started thinking opti may be the problem this time too. I bought another opti, checked the cam pin length and all of the other things that are related to the opti. Everything checked out except………..I was looking through Shbox’s site and came across a picture of the vacuum lines for the opti. It hit me then that maybe I had not installed one or both of the valves on the opti air intake correctly. After opening up my second opti it had some moisture in it. Sure enough I had put the Reverse Flow valve in backwards and it was also not in the line where the diagram showed it should be. I changed the valve. The car fired up and after a few adjustments ran the best it ever has or so it felt that way. Only your dyno knows for sure! There were a few other things I changed in all of this. I installed LS7 lifters, The GMPP lifters I had bought the first time around did not seem to want to hold the pressure of these springs. Of course this changed the push rod length. Luckily I had a set of 7.1 hardened PR’s laying around. I also installed new GM guide plates in hopes of getting the rockers to line up on the valve better. A new GM FRP, a LT4 knock module, Teflon tape on the knock sensors in hopes of making them less sensitive. I also went back to NGK spark plugs and installed a new ICM.
I’m not sure if any of these things individually was my problem. It could have been a combination of all or any of them. You can make you own deductions on that. I probably left something out but it's wasn't much if I did. Thanks once again to everyone who contributed to this thread!
Below is the best of three runs I made on the dyno this morning. I was hoping for 340 at the wheels. I didn’t miss it much! This is on a mail order tune so I’m sure a dyno tune would get a couple more. I also had my stock 48 mm TB on so that may have affected the AFR a little bit. I didn’t check it on these pulls today.
Last edited by Weav's Vet; Jan 3, 2010 at 10:34 AM.
Congrats!, may I suggest that you remove the tape from your KS and retest?
I think I'll pass on that one, sorry. It's just to much of a hassle especially after all I have gone through on this car. I see your point though. I really believe putting in the LT4 knock module did the trick. I may have saved myself a ton of work if I had just put that in to begin with. I guess I'll never know for sure. I sure wouldn't have learned as much!
Last edited by Weav's Vet; Jan 3, 2010 at 10:37 AM.