Weav, there is nothing wrong with the valve seals you described. Prime the oil the way you were planning, and let it fire!! I can't wait to hear the update.

-Mike

 

Well thank you Mike for addressing the seals. I figured they were ok but it never hurts to ask. I'm ready to hear it run myself!

 

Mike, I APOLOGIZE for coming across so strong.

It's just that I feel so passionate about building these engines the "right" way. Force of habit, I guess, from so many years of having my engines in the heat of competition.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!

 

No problem Jake. I always respect your answers/advice and I appreciate them very much. We're gonna get thing figured out soon. You just keep um coming and we'll be fine. Thanks again and there is no apology needed.

 

Got a little more done this afternoon. Got the valves adjusted. Pretty easy with the intake off. I ended up with 7.1 push rods to make the rollers hit the center of the valve stem. Got the intake back on so it's down to the little stuff now. Shouldn't take to long to finish it up tomorrow. Of coarse, now that I've said that something will probably go nuts on me.......

 

Center of the valve stem is correct IF the valve was at mid-lift but not if the lifter was on the cam's base circle OR if the valve was at positions other than mid-lift.

Visually divide the valve stem tip into thirds.

The OUTBOARD most third (toward the exhaust manifolds) is where the mark should be with the valve at MAX LIFT.

The CENTER most third is when the valve is at HALF-LIFT

The INBOARD most third (toward the intake manifold) is when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam's lobe.

I can post CarCraft and CompCams write ups on this if you'd like.

Remember too, that it's better to have pushrods that are a little too long than a little too short.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!

 

Thanks again Jake. I did it like this. I was under the impression the roller should stay close to center throughout the entire lift process. Sounds like I was wrong again.

PR length is something that you need to check to get the EXACT length. Use an adjustable PR checker and start at 7.100" and adjust the length until you get the wear pattern most centered in the valve. Go .050" shorter and watch the wear pattern move. If it gets worse, go .050 longer. It could be anywhere from 7.00 to 7.250 depending on everything done but a 7.100" (Trik Flow 21407100) is what I suggest for people that do not know how (or do not wanna take the time) to do this.

The following is a method of verifying proper valve train geometry. After you have estimated the required pushrod length using a Pushrod Length Checker, use this method to verify that the valve train geometry is correct (using the rockers you are using in your engine):



1
The first step is to install a solid lifter and an adjustable pushrod. Mark the tip of the valve with a marker



2
Install your rocker arm and set it up with zero lash.



3
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise several times. Remove the rocker arm. The contact pattern of the rocker tip will be where the marker has been wiped away from the valve tip. The pattern should be centered on the valve tip, and as narrow as possible. If it is not, experiment with varying the pushrod length to yield the best pattern.



4
Pushrod Too Long: Notice how the pattern is wide, and shifted to the exhaust side of the valve tip.



5
Pushrod Too Short: Notice how the pattern is wide, and shifted to the intake side of the valve tip.



6
Pushrod Length Correct: Notice how the pattern is narrow and is centered on the valve tip.

 

I finally got it running after a very hectic day. Had to take the dog to Vet right off the bat. Anyway, it seems to run much better if my buttmeter is working worth a ****. I haven't had it on the road yet because of this..........it's doing it's no start thing again. I cut it off to take it down off the jack stands and just like at the dyno it wouldn't let me have my key. I couldn't get it out of the ignition. After sitting long enough to get the stands out it gave me my key but it won't start. It won't turn over. It won't do anything. None of this has ever happened until I sent the PCM off to get the tune for the cam put in it. I'm going to let it sit a while and then try it again

Anybody got any ideas?

 

Have you tried another key? I would say possible VATS problem, but that wouldn't keep the key stuck in the lock cylinder.

 

Tried that, didn't seem to make any difference.

I waited like I said and tried it again and it fired right up. Crazy damn car..... Took it for a little test drive and it seems great! Although it seemed great before until I put it on a dyno so I guess that is next. That will have to be after Christmas though.

I'm going to give the data logging a shot tomorrow and see what that may tell us.

 

I only had a problem of a key not coming out when it was a new key cut by other than a dealer. Can you spray some dielectric lubricant in there?
VATS may be off, depending on what the tuner did.
The little resistor on the key, can you check it too? Clean it.
I had a chart with all the resistance that all the keys had, as there were 13 different resistances. Still looking for it.

 

I can try that Steve. Vats is still on car. I did not tell him to disable it so he left it alone.

Something else that might be an issue. When the car was one the stands I put it in gear just to see how it would idle with a load. The ASR light came on so I put I back in park cut it off and that is when all of this no start/key stuck thing happened. Would the ASR have anything to do with it or was it just a coincidence?

 

The ASR light will come on after time due to rear wheels turning at different rates then front.
Here is a VATS bypass tutorial, if we need to go down this path.
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...rial-pics.html
VATS key table in KOHMS
# 1key .40, #2- .52, #3- .68, #4- .88, #5- 1.13, #6- 1.46, #7- 1.86, #8- 2.37, #9- 2.99, #10- 3.73, #11- 4.73, #12- 6.01, #13- 7.45, #14- 9.51, #15- 11.73 OHMs

 

I meant to tell you Steve40th.

Before I tore it all back down I had this noise coming from the front around the timing cover. I never could pin point it though. I really thought I had a rub from the chain because it kind of sounded like PLRX's duck when he had a rubbing on his. After removing the TC I found nothing rubbing so that wasn't it. The only other thing I changed in that area was the opti. I put my old one back on. Anyway, the noise is gone now. Do they ever make noises like that?

 

I have personally never heard an opti noise. I have only heard a water pump that was out of round, the housing, and it was binding. Weird noise.
I am finding out the Optis are a unique breed of gear. I am finding out the bearings are NTN made all the way through 2007. No replacement to meet the exact specs, but you can put a larger OD size in. The sensor is now made in the US, no markings though, so it is questinable to me.
The rotors all look different too. Opti has a bad rep. Install is critical. If I ever have to buy one again, I will buy OEM GM. I am still going to try and rebuild one, with the sensor and bearing I found.
Didnt mean to go off on a soapbox.

 

No problem Steve. I just thought I'd throw it in there.

After this is all said and done here are the things I changed. Not even sure yet if the problem is fixed but if it is maybe it was one of these.


Changed the front 02's to Delphi
Adjusted the valves 1/4 past zero lash 1/4 turn preload, both valves one cylinder at the time. I was as accurate as I possibly could be at this.
Teflon tape on knock sensors to make them less sensitive
Put NGK TR555 IX plugs back in gaped at .050
LS7 lifters. This made the push rod length go from 7.2 to 7.1
Replaced the new GM opti that was in there with my old one
Replaced all vacuum lines
New fuel pressure regulator
New GM guide plates. The depth of the notch was slightly more on these than the TPIS I had and for some reason the rockers appear to line up better. I do believe I had some rubbing going on with the TPIS.
Put my 48mm TB back on in place of the BBK 52 (idle seems much better) With stock heads I think it will be enough.
Put a battery disconnect switch on because I'm tired of disconnecting the neg battery terminal. (maybe this was the issue all along )

I think that's about it. Take your pick if it's fixed. I have no clue......

 

I'll be interested to hear the results!!

Oh, have you pulled the cap off the new opti that you replaced?

 

Me too.
Can you take some more pics of wiring, hoses etc. Since I am not there, maybe something is obvious.
The whole key thing and no start could be something totally out of our heads right now.
When I rebuilt my entire steering column, seeing how "High tech" gm was, it would not surprise me if something in the key tumbler is just old and dirty and needs a little cleaning with spray or a dry dielectric lubricant, if they make it.

 

i don't know exactly where in north carolina you are but i live in conway south carolina and have a few peoples cars i work on in north carolina. if its isn't too far i wouldn't mind swingin by as a second set of eyes.

 

Sure, tomorrow.
The strange thing is, it's never done this before until that day at the dyno and now today. Coincidence?????