Problems, problems, problems......
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
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The 4929?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
Yes
I went ahead and checked them again. I made certain I tighten the gauge as far as I could this time on each valve. I tried to get a couple of shots but my POS camera will not focus that close.
If you can tell anything about these the blury number at the bottom is 90. The exhaust was just past it and the intake was just before it.
I went ahead and checked them again. I made certain I tighten the gauge as far as I could this time on each valve. I tried to get a couple of shots but my POS camera will not focus that close.
If you can tell anything about these the blury number at the bottom is 90. The exhaust was just past it and the intake was just before it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,933
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Yes
I went ahead and checked them again. I made certain I tighten the gauge as far as I could this time on each valve. I tried to get a couple of shots but my POS camera will not focus that close.
If you can tell anything about these the blury number at the bottom is 90. The exhaust was just past it and the intake was just before it.
I went ahead and checked them again. I made certain I tighten the gauge as far as I could this time on each valve. I tried to get a couple of shots but my POS camera will not focus that close.
If you can tell anything about these the blury number at the bottom is 90. The exhaust was just past it and the intake was just before it.
LE is very very good, I am thinking its going to be the Opti, I just have that feeling.
Also, are your headers running real hot, glowing red. They look like they have been heated up pretty good.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 773
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis MN
You say your car is running good besides a sluggish feeling when it shifts into 3rd.I hate to say it,but if it was my car I would almost want to take that cam and springs out and get a new cam from comp cams and comp cams springs.Either way sounds like your gonna need to backtrack.
If you don't want to do that & your cam is installed correctly,my guess is a bad computer or tune.Also let us know if cam is correctly installed.Beautiful wood work.What a nice skill to have & be sure to pass that knowledge down to your kids.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I petty much told my one kid if I saw a hammer in his hand I'd kill him. He's into computer networking for a profession........ Thanks for the compliment though!
I finally got some decent photos to Pete. I'm ok with the spring height although it does make the seat pressure probably a little high for stock heads he said. The pictures I put on here weren't quite accurate because of my lack of experience with the gauge. I wasn't tightening it up enough. On that note I decided to take the front of the engine off again. I started that this afternoon. Got the opti off but was uable to look inside because I don't own a inverted torx wrench for those little screws on the opti. Where can you get one of those things? Anywhere local maybe? If the opti looks ok inside I'm going to take the TC off and degree or at least check the degree in the cam. Will see where all of this leads.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
I've tried two different PCM's, of coarse they had basically the same tune in both of them.
I petty much told my one kid if I saw a hammer in his hand I'd kill him. He's into computer networking for a profession........ Thanks for the compliment though!
I finally got some decent photos to Pete. I'm ok with the spring height although it does make the seat pressure probably a little high for stock heads he said. The pictures I put on here weren't quite accurate because of my lack of experience with the gauge. I wasn't tightening it up enough. On that note I decided to take the front of the engine off again. I started that this afternoon. Got the opti off but was uable to look inside because I don't own a inverted torx wrench for those little screws on the opti. Where can you get one of those things? Anywhere local maybe? If the opti looks ok inside I'm going to take the TC off and degree or at least check the degree in the cam. Will see where all of this leads.
I petty much told my one kid if I saw a hammer in his hand I'd kill him. He's into computer networking for a profession........ Thanks for the compliment though!
I finally got some decent photos to Pete. I'm ok with the spring height although it does make the seat pressure probably a little high for stock heads he said. The pictures I put on here weren't quite accurate because of my lack of experience with the gauge. I wasn't tightening it up enough. On that note I decided to take the front of the engine off again. I started that this afternoon. Got the opti off but was uable to look inside because I don't own a inverted torx wrench for those little screws on the opti. Where can you get one of those things? Anywhere local maybe? If the opti looks ok inside I'm going to take the TC off and degree or at least check the degree in the cam. Will see where all of this leads.
CompCams and Summit sell a valve spring pressure tester that's designed for use in a vise. I set my 388 CID springs using one. It's a Profrom.
I'll ship you mine if you want to borrow it. Let me know. jcameron266@sbcglobal.net
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 1,352
I've tried two different PCM's, of coarse they had basically the same tune in both of them.
I petty much told my one kid if I saw a hammer in his hand I'd kill him. He's into computer networking for a profession........ Thanks for the compliment though!
I finally got some decent photos to Pete. I'm ok with the spring height although it does make the seat pressure probably a little high for stock heads he said. The pictures I put on here weren't quite accurate because of my lack of experience with the gauge. I wasn't tightening it up enough. On that note I decided to take the front of the engine off again. I started that this afternoon. Got the opti off but was uable to look inside because I don't own a inverted torx wrench for those little screws on the opti. Where can you get one of those things? Anywhere local maybe? If the opti looks ok inside I'm going to take the TC off and degree or at least check the degree in the cam. Will see where all of this leads.
I petty much told my one kid if I saw a hammer in his hand I'd kill him. He's into computer networking for a profession........ Thanks for the compliment though!
I finally got some decent photos to Pete. I'm ok with the spring height although it does make the seat pressure probably a little high for stock heads he said. The pictures I put on here weren't quite accurate because of my lack of experience with the gauge. I wasn't tightening it up enough. On that note I decided to take the front of the engine off again. I started that this afternoon. Got the opti off but was uable to look inside because I don't own a inverted torx wrench for those little screws on the opti. Where can you get one of those things? Anywhere local maybe? If the opti looks ok inside I'm going to take the TC off and degree or at least check the degree in the cam. Will see where all of this leads.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I read that guys use a torx bolt to remove the Opti screws. Never tried opening an Opti myself though.
CompCams and Summit sell a valve spring pressure tester that's designed for use in a vise. I set my 388 CID springs using one. It's a Profrom.
I'll ship you mine if you want to borrow it. Let me know. jcameron266@sbcglobal.net
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
CompCams and Summit sell a valve spring pressure tester that's designed for use in a vise. I set my 388 CID springs using one. It's a Profrom.
I'll ship you mine if you want to borrow it. Let me know. jcameron266@sbcglobal.net
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
You've been kind of off in the background on this problem I have. Care to voice your opinion on what you think it might be? This has become a very long thread but in a nutshell I have lost a ton of HP after this cam install. The dyno graph looks like an EKG instead of a dyno pull after about 4500 or so. As I have stated I've tried two different PCMs (but with the same tune in both with only an AFR adjustment on the one that's in the car now). The things I changed that might have caused this are:
Opti, new GM
Cam, LE 226/230 .565/.565 111lsa (Was not degreed in)
Tune
Valve springs, stock heads
Cloyes DR timing chain (3145)
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I'll give it a shot today.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 1,352
I've got a deep E4 torx bit too if ya can't find one no problem
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 773
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis MN
12 second quarter-mile?Man I wish my car was that fast-anyway let me/us know about possible cam install issue
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
13.3 was my best so this cam should make me wear a helmet anyway. We'll just have to see how far into the elusive 12's I can get.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
That's mighty nice of you Jake. If it gets that far I may take you up on it.
You've been kind of off in the background on this problem I have. Care to voice your opinion on what you think it might be? This has become a very long thread but in a nutshell I have lost a ton of HP after this cam install. The dyno graph looks like an EKG instead of a dyno pull after about 4500 or so. As I have stated I've tried two different PCMs (but with the same tune in both with only an AFR adjustment on the one that's in the car now). The things I changed that might have caused this are:
Opti, new GM
Cam, LE 226/230 .565/.565 111lsa (Was not degreed in)
Tune
Valve springs, stock heads
Cloyes DR timing chain (3145)
You've been kind of off in the background on this problem I have. Care to voice your opinion on what you think it might be? This has become a very long thread but in a nutshell I have lost a ton of HP after this cam install. The dyno graph looks like an EKG instead of a dyno pull after about 4500 or so. As I have stated I've tried two different PCMs (but with the same tune in both with only an AFR adjustment on the one that's in the car now). The things I changed that might have caused this are:
Opti, new GM
Cam, LE 226/230 .565/.565 111lsa (Was not degreed in)
Tune
Valve springs, stock heads
Cloyes DR timing chain (3145)
I'm going to go back to your original post and read everything that followed from that point to see if I can come up with something that can help.
Offer remains open on the pressure tester if you decide you need it. I've already fished it out of my tool chest just in case. Just let me know.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Okay, I just finished re-reading and here's what jumped out at me.
First, your cranking pressures are so high that they're usually more associated with a stock LT1 camshaft. The difference between side to side readings is a concern, but not at the core of your problem.
The stock 96 LT1 cam has about 204 degrees of duration @ .050 yet the cam you're running is almost four times bigger at 226 @ .050. I use 6 degrees difference to determine a one step change in cams.
That big a difference in duration specs should have resulted in lower cranking compression reading, assuming all else remained the same. That lessening of cranking compression would be the result of the longer duration and over-lap.
So engine's power peaks should be higher than what they are; not necessarily the numbers themselves, but the peaks (where they occur). Of course, the actual power should have been UP significantly too.
You're running the Cloyes 3145 timing chain set which comes with three different keyways on the crank gear. The cam you installed reportedly already has four degrees of advance ground into it.
So what I believe you did was to install the crank gear in the 4 degree advance position.
Now the cam is too far advanced, a total of eight degrees, give or take, depending on the tolerance stack. That'll raise the cranking pressures and lower the RPM point where peak power is made. That would cover both issues, the higher cranking compression and the lower rpm at which peak power is made.
To test my conclusion, you'll need to verify how you installed the crank gear. While the parts on the front of the engine are off, I recommend you should also degree-in the cam to verify that the cam was ground correctly.
You don't need any timing marks on the damper, the degree wheel you bolt to the front of the engine serves to establish Absolute Top Dead Center of the #1 piston. Use the Positive Stop method to find Absolute TDC which eliminates the error a dial indicator causes by piston dwell at TDC .
To accurately degree-in a cam, the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR is to find ABSOLUTE TOP DEAD CENTER for the #1 piston.
There's a Positive Stop tool that screws into the #1 spark plug hole for use in finding Absolute TDC. You'll need either a dial indicator with magnetic base or a dial indicator that installs directly onto the #1 intake cam lobe (the one I have; much easier to use but requires pulling the intake manifold to install it).
As far as springs:
I have a stock 96 LT1 Vette head (taken off my son's 96) sitting on my kitchen counter. I tried, as best I could, measuring the installed height of the stock springs using my digital mic. Best I could measure (and I REALLY tried to be as accurate as I could) has them at 1.800"
I, also agree with Pete that if your Patriot springs are 155# or more on the seat, that's too much seat pressure without running the risk of killing the lifters over time. I also don't like the over 400# lb/in rating of those springs. Some may disagree, but I feel they'll really stress the lifters over time, probably causing them to fail.
Your graphs showing 12.5/13.0 AFR at WOT is right on. You weren't having a AFR problem within that range.
There may be other issues yet to be resolved but this is what I suspect so far.
Hope it helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
First, your cranking pressures are so high that they're usually more associated with a stock LT1 camshaft. The difference between side to side readings is a concern, but not at the core of your problem.
The stock 96 LT1 cam has about 204 degrees of duration @ .050 yet the cam you're running is almost four times bigger at 226 @ .050. I use 6 degrees difference to determine a one step change in cams.
That big a difference in duration specs should have resulted in lower cranking compression reading, assuming all else remained the same. That lessening of cranking compression would be the result of the longer duration and over-lap.
So engine's power peaks should be higher than what they are; not necessarily the numbers themselves, but the peaks (where they occur). Of course, the actual power should have been UP significantly too.
You're running the Cloyes 3145 timing chain set which comes with three different keyways on the crank gear. The cam you installed reportedly already has four degrees of advance ground into it.
So what I believe you did was to install the crank gear in the 4 degree advance position.
Now the cam is too far advanced, a total of eight degrees, give or take, depending on the tolerance stack. That'll raise the cranking pressures and lower the RPM point where peak power is made. That would cover both issues, the higher cranking compression and the lower rpm at which peak power is made.
To test my conclusion, you'll need to verify how you installed the crank gear. While the parts on the front of the engine are off, I recommend you should also degree-in the cam to verify that the cam was ground correctly.
You don't need any timing marks on the damper, the degree wheel you bolt to the front of the engine serves to establish Absolute Top Dead Center of the #1 piston. Use the Positive Stop method to find Absolute TDC which eliminates the error a dial indicator causes by piston dwell at TDC .
To accurately degree-in a cam, the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR is to find ABSOLUTE TOP DEAD CENTER for the #1 piston.
There's a Positive Stop tool that screws into the #1 spark plug hole for use in finding Absolute TDC. You'll need either a dial indicator with magnetic base or a dial indicator that installs directly onto the #1 intake cam lobe (the one I have; much easier to use but requires pulling the intake manifold to install it).
As far as springs:
I have a stock 96 LT1 Vette head (taken off my son's 96) sitting on my kitchen counter. I tried, as best I could, measuring the installed height of the stock springs using my digital mic. Best I could measure (and I REALLY tried to be as accurate as I could) has them at 1.800"
I, also agree with Pete that if your Patriot springs are 155# or more on the seat, that's too much seat pressure without running the risk of killing the lifters over time. I also don't like the over 400# lb/in rating of those springs. Some may disagree, but I feel they'll really stress the lifters over time, probably causing them to fail.
Your graphs showing 12.5/13.0 AFR at WOT is right on. You weren't having a AFR problem within that range.
There may be other issues yet to be resolved but this is what I suspect so far.
Hope it helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
Last edited by JAKE; Nov 18, 2009 at 07:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
Thanks Jake!
That's quite an explanation. I'm doing my best to understand some of it.
As far as the 3145 goes I used the slot the instructions said to use for GM which was the center one. I'm in the process of getting the tc off now so I'll see if I did it that way or not. I had read before that higher than normal compression could be the sign of an advanced cam.
You mentioned lifters. I'm beginning to wonder if that may be part of the issue. After I first installed everything and got the car running I had to continually keep adjusting them. They kept loosening up on me. I mentioned this to LE and he said sometimes they won't hold the pressure of the new springs and guys run a heavier oil to help them keep their pressure. So I don't know if they are weak now or what. I did not try the heaver oil. Is there a way to test them?
I have the opti off and snapped a picture of the inside. Looks OK to me. No obvious rubbing anywhere. I used a deck screw and vise grips I had in the van to get the inverted torx screws out with. No way to tell about the circuits I guess. No codes were thrown for it.
I'm afraid I may have major problems though. The crank hub is giving me a fit on coming out. I have it about half way I guess. I went to take the longer bolt I had used for the puller to press against out and it won't budge. When I took the OE bolt out to start with it had a few threads that had stripped on the end of it. So I may have a crank snout that is worthless now. I'll just have to continue on tomorrow with it and see what happens. Boy, when it rains it pours don't it..........
Thanks again Jake!
That's quite an explanation. I'm doing my best to understand some of it.
As far as the 3145 goes I used the slot the instructions said to use for GM which was the center one. I'm in the process of getting the tc off now so I'll see if I did it that way or not. I had read before that higher than normal compression could be the sign of an advanced cam.
You mentioned lifters. I'm beginning to wonder if that may be part of the issue. After I first installed everything and got the car running I had to continually keep adjusting them. They kept loosening up on me. I mentioned this to LE and he said sometimes they won't hold the pressure of the new springs and guys run a heavier oil to help them keep their pressure. So I don't know if they are weak now or what. I did not try the heaver oil. Is there a way to test them?
I have the opti off and snapped a picture of the inside. Looks OK to me. No obvious rubbing anywhere. I used a deck screw and vise grips I had in the van to get the inverted torx screws out with. No way to tell about the circuits I guess. No codes were thrown for it.
I'm afraid I may have major problems though. The crank hub is giving me a fit on coming out. I have it about half way I guess. I went to take the longer bolt I had used for the puller to press against out and it won't budge. When I took the OE bolt out to start with it had a few threads that had stripped on the end of it. So I may have a crank snout that is worthless now. I'll just have to continue on tomorrow with it and see what happens. Boy, when it rains it pours don't it..........
Thanks again Jake!
Last edited by Weav's Vet; Nov 17, 2009 at 06:45 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
So you're saying that the bolt you inserted into the snout of the crank is now stuck in there?
If so, is there a head on the bolt that you can grab with vice grips and wiggle?
If not, try re-installing the hub enough to give you access to the stuck bolt.
Don't fret the threads in the crank snout; not right now anyway. They can either be chased or re/tapped/re-treaded for a different thread pitch bolt. If it comes to that, just be sure not to SNAP off the chase/tap inside the crank, that'll make the job a LOT tougher to fix.
How about this: before doing anything about the crank threads, post so you can get the best advice on how to attack the repair. Right now let's concentrate on the primary issue. Okay?
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
If so, is there a head on the bolt that you can grab with vice grips and wiggle?
If not, try re-installing the hub enough to give you access to the stuck bolt.
Don't fret the threads in the crank snout; not right now anyway. They can either be chased or re/tapped/re-treaded for a different thread pitch bolt. If it comes to that, just be sure not to SNAP off the chase/tap inside the crank, that'll make the job a LOT tougher to fix.
How about this: before doing anything about the crank threads, post so you can get the best advice on how to attack the repair. Right now let's concentrate on the primary issue. Okay?
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
So you're saying that the bolt you inserted into the snout of the crank is now stuck in there?
If so, is there a head on the bolt that you can grab with vice grips and wiggle?
If not, try re-installing the hub enough to give you access to the stuck bolt.
Don't fret the threads in the crank snout; not right now anyway. They can either be chased or re/tapped/re-treaded for a different thread pitch bolt. If it comes to that, just be sure not to SNAP off the chase/tap inside the crank, that'll make the job a LOT tougher to fix.
How about this: before doing anything about the crank threads, post so you can get the best advice on how to attack the repair. Right now let's concentrate on the primary issue. Okay?
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
If so, is there a head on the bolt that you can grab with vice grips and wiggle?
If not, try re-installing the hub enough to give you access to the stuck bolt.
Don't fret the threads in the crank snout; not right now anyway. They can either be chased or re/tapped/re-treaded for a different thread pitch bolt. If it comes to that, just be sure not to SNAP off the chase/tap inside the crank, that'll make the job a LOT tougher to fix.
How about this: before doing anything about the crank threads, post so you can get the best advice on how to attack the repair. Right now let's concentrate on the primary issue. Okay?
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
I was probably in to much of a hurry yesterday. I hadn't locked the engine yet so it wouldn't turn. That is my mission here in a few minutes. Then I can get it out I think. Then I can tell more about the threads. I also have to jack the engine up so I can get to the hub better. That way if I have to pull the cam it will be up and ready.
I'll post pictures of the chain and timing gears when I get the timing cover off.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
There's a deamon in my car...........
and he has his nasty hands on my crank hub!!! Either that or there are some things that are just meant not to be.
Another non productive afternoon on this POS car.
I got the bolt out that was stuck from yesterday. The threads on it are beat all to hell so I assume the inside of the crank hub is toast. But......just in case they weren't I put a smaller bolt in to let the puller push against. Bad mistake, that bolt bent in the hub and will not come out. I can't get anything on it to try and pull it out either. It will turn but is obviously bent from the rotation it makes while turning. So I figure I have a couple of options. I can cut the hub off enough to get the bent bolt out but then how do I get the rest of the remaining hub off with nothing to fasten the puller to. I can pull the engine and get another one because this one obviously hates me but no funds so that is out too. So I'm just going to give it a rest again. Maybe one day I'll pick back up on it and solve this thing.
When I decided to take this cam project on I was trying to rely on the experience of others that had done something similar many, many times in the past. With that being said I assumed I could get the correct parts to do this with without the problems I am having now. I bought good parts and did my very best to install them correctly. I was wrong........never assume anything! Always double check what you are doing and especially the parts being used.
This thread has become way to long so as far as I'm concerned it is closed. If and when I decide to tackle this problem again I'll just start a new one with a link to this one in it.
I want to thank all of you that have taken so much time to try and help me through this mess. If nothing else you have taught me a lot and I appreciate it very much!!!
Thanks for listening to my rant........... I'm just over this car for now!!
Later, Weav
Another non productive afternoon on this POS car.
I got the bolt out that was stuck from yesterday. The threads on it are beat all to hell so I assume the inside of the crank hub is toast. But......just in case they weren't I put a smaller bolt in to let the puller push against. Bad mistake, that bolt bent in the hub and will not come out. I can't get anything on it to try and pull it out either. It will turn but is obviously bent from the rotation it makes while turning. So I figure I have a couple of options. I can cut the hub off enough to get the bent bolt out but then how do I get the rest of the remaining hub off with nothing to fasten the puller to. I can pull the engine and get another one because this one obviously hates me but no funds so that is out too. So I'm just going to give it a rest again. Maybe one day I'll pick back up on it and solve this thing.
When I decided to take this cam project on I was trying to rely on the experience of others that had done something similar many, many times in the past. With that being said I assumed I could get the correct parts to do this with without the problems I am having now. I bought good parts and did my very best to install them correctly. I was wrong........never assume anything! Always double check what you are doing and especially the parts being used.
This thread has become way to long so as far as I'm concerned it is closed. If and when I decide to tackle this problem again I'll just start a new one with a link to this one in it.
I want to thank all of you that have taken so much time to try and help me through this mess. If nothing else you have taught me a lot and I appreciate it very much!!!
Thanks for listening to my rant........... I'm just over this car for now!!
Later, Weav
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,933
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Hey, I would loan you my hub pulling tool that is specific to GM, but shipping from Hawaii might be a few bucks. But it could be sent to my relatives when done, which is SC. Let me know. But others on this forum have the tool to. Its not cheap, but can be borrowed froma cool dealership maybe. You need it to make the install of the hub easier, and it is definitely a lifesaver when taking the hub off.
I have broken the bolt off in the crank before. Its not hard to repair the damaged threads, trust me. Many ways to go about it. Tools are easy to get and borrow to repair.
I have broken the bolt off in the crank before. Its not hard to repair the damaged threads, trust me. Many ways to go about it. Tools are easy to get and borrow to repair.
