Spark Plug Wire

 

It took me several stops to find the noid lights. Yes they are called noid lights. My local harbor freight didn't have them which is why I wound up at autozone. They have a "loaner" program where you pay for the tool and they refund your money when you return it.

OBTW - my fuse blew by a "freak" occurence. Went over railroad tracks and it blew.
Ever since I put a new one in it hasen't blown, I've gone over those railroad tracks dozens of times since then with no problems.

 

????

I guess when I suggested you buy a set of noid lights you thought I pulled that word out of my azz?

 

that is a batch fire deal. Check for injector pulses and see if they are present at all the connectors. The '89 only has one O2 sensor and it is located on the driver's side pipe so if that is "lean" and cold to the touch then the passenger side is smokin' red hot the car's computer would never know there was an issue on that bank since it only samples the odd bank.

If the spark is clean, fuel injectors are doing their job and the timing is "on" you'll want to look else where for problems.

If it were me I'd pick up a inexpensive laser temperature gun (harbor freight) and check for overheating at the pre cats and main cat....I bet you got a pre cat problem/blockage on the passenger's side of the Y pipe.

 

Not everyone here has experience wrenching cars. It's not that the OP didn't believe you, he just didn't know what you were talking about.

 

Just so I understand which bank is everyone saying is not getting a signal, driver side or passenger? Passenger side is the hot side.
Also I just put a stethoscope on the injectors but couldn’t hear anything on any of them. The motor shakes to much making lots of noises. I also felt them with my finger but could tell anything that way either.

And Bomar I believed you just never heard of a noid.

 

Noid kit

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...atchallpartial

I believe you can borrow/rent one from Advance though.

 

The drivers side is the problem.
Batch fire...all injectors on each side (odd even) fire at once.
I don't think the driver side is firing at all.
Passenger side bank is attempting to compensate for it since the only O2 sensor is on the drivers side.
Possible areas of concern:
Injectors on drivers side not plugged in.
Wiring harness on drivers side FUBAR
Injector driver for drivers side FUBAR
Fuse blown for drivers side injectors
No fuel to drivers side injectors (no idea how that could happen, but I am 52 and see new **** every day.
4 bad injectors on drivers side (buy a lottery ticket)
and a few more but I need to attend to other things

 

let me add:
4 fouled spark plugs on odd bank
4 missing/bad spark plug wires on odd bank
world's strangest distributor cap issue

 

Terminology, what is a Fubar

 

F'd up beyond all repair.

 

Noooo!!!! Maybe not repairable but always replaceable.
My local Napa store has a noid light for $13 (hope that’s not a bad omen) but I can’t get it until tomorrow.

Checked both fusses and both were good. Weird one side takes a 10 amp and the other a 20?

 

Do you know how to pull codes using a paperclip?

 

Sure but i have a snap on 2500 scanner. here are the results from the scan I took the other day.

First number cold second after warm up.

Open/closed loop: open, open
Exhaust oxygen: lean, lean
TPS: .50, .52
Block learn:128, 128
IAC position:160, 160
FT cell: 0, 15
02 crossments: no, no
Base PW (ms): 0, 3.0
Decal learn: no, no
A/F learned: no, no
Coolant: 65, 195
MAT degrees: 85, 82
MAF (9m/sec): 65, 195
Air flow (9m/sec): 23, 23
Load LV8: 0, 14
Spark adv: 0, 47
Knock: no, no
Knock retard: 0, 0
EGR Diag SW: on, on
Start CLNT degree F: 65, 195
Vats problem: yes, yes
P/N switch: pn, pn
TCC ???: p1, no
TCCapplyCKT: no, no
OD switch: on, on

 

Nope not weird at all - thats the way my 92 is as well.
Too bad it wasn't a fuse, now you have a bunch of stuff to check from bomar76's posts.

 

Got a volt meter?
take out the inj 2 fuse, and poke the volt meter probe in both fuse post holders. one will have power.
The other one should go through the computer. Do not use the ohm meter selection on it with the engine off, you will ruin the computer. This is a volt meter only check.
If the fuses don't have power, it could be the fusible link that goes to the computer fuses buss.
With the engine off, you need to disconnect the left injectors, and then go to the engine computer, disconnect the computer connector, and ohm from any of the disconnected injector connectors to the computer connector to find the right wire.
Then clip onto the wire in the computer connector, and then touch the same colored wire at the injector connectors, and see if there is 0 ohms. There should be a solid connection.
do this on all 4 left injectors.
Then clip onto the car ground somewhere. then use the voltmeter probe to touch the second wire in the injector connectors. All of them should be grounds.
To double check yourself, do the same on the right side, and if the right side is correct, you should get a feel for what the left side is supposed to act like.
This will let you know that your problem isn't the actual wire harness to the injectors.
Then If the problem still persists, disconnect the injector connectors, ohm each injector. To perform a functional test on the injector solenoids, get a good 6 feet of speaker wire, and strip the ends, and pull the end wires apart for about 4 inches.
solder the wires at one end to make them into probes. Then because speaker wire is different colored clear jacketed wire, Put the silver or gold wire to a ground some where, and the brass or copper colored wire to the battery positive.
Be careful, don't let the ends touch on the loose end, and then use those home made probes to poke into the injectors with the injector connectors disconnected. It doesn't matter which terminal on the injector is positive. You just want to hear the "click".
I said into the injectors, not the connectors.
you should be able to hear the injectors clicking if you are extremely careful.
If they all click and have about 18 ohms, your problem is the computer drivers (transistors), or the drivers power source, such as fuses, or their power sources such as fusible links.

 

Does this test give the same results as a noid light does? lets you know if they are getting a signal?

 

You got some stuff in your scanner data here that is "off" from normal.

Car is @195*F but still in "open" loop....which is why you have: "0" o2 cross counts. This is possible if a "lean" codes is triggered....it will kick it out of "closed loop"...and the ecm will run off the "limp home" data.

Other issues. The "warm" numbers in the different functions don't match up either when you compare them to each other. Example: TPS is .52 and Spark advance is @ 47 at the same time

I understand the car starts and the injectors seem to be pulsing to atleast some degree but the "yes-yes" in the VATS could be still be trouble.....since the VATS signal is what enables the injector drivers to "close"

You retrieved some scanner data which you posted but you didn't post any actual "trouble codes". How about posting the code/s and some "02" sensor voltage values if the scanner will do it.

 

Just so there is no confusion, the injector fuse power does not run through the ECM. With key on, 12 volts is sent from fuses to injectors, the ECM supplys ground to fire injectors.

I'll add some more info after work.

 

Believe it or not there are no trouble codes that come up. As for the 02 I’m not very knowledgably of the scanners capabilities. I do know it is supposed to run live data but I haven’t got that far into it to perform the tests.
I just picked a Noid light and going out know to see if the injectors are getting a signal.