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Why would you want to disable the light, it is telling you there is a problem with your car? See this link to pull the code and then use the factory service manual to repair the problem.
Why would you want to disable the light, it is telling you there is a problem with your car? See this link to pull the code and then use the factory service manual to repair the problem.
thanks, that was very helpful. I saved this info for future reference. here's what i'm trying to do. i just bought a car that has been highly modified for more power (no EGR, no PCV). i need to have it pass emissions but the check engine light is on because of the missing equipment so it won't pass visual inspection (think it will pass the smell test). i just want to disable the light until it passes inspection. it also has a second computer running to do diagnostics on the engine so not concerned about there being a problem i'm not aware of.
not sure what the rules are in your state but round here they will check to ensure the light flashes on when you turn the key on. This ensures people dont do what you are trying to do.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
What year is your car?
IIRC the EGR code doesn't throw unless you are at highway speeds.
You could disconnect the battery for a few min, reconnect drive short distance to emissions with no SES light.
Disconnect the wire from the ECM to the bulb. Find someone who knows how to build enectronic circuits. Have them design a simple timer circuit that will flash the bulb once after ignition is turned on. I have a similar situation with my '91. With the EGR removed the light only comes on while on the highway and is off when you start the car. I can live with that. You may be able to "trick" the ECM by putting a resistor/diode across the missing sensor leads. That won't work with the EGR though because of the way the test runs, using both the EGR and O2 info together.
Have someone reprogram the car to eliminate the devices that are no longer being used and this will eliminate the check engine light for those items but it will still work as required for the remaining equipment.
Have someone reprogram the car to eliminate the devices that are no longer being used and this will eliminate the check engine light for those items but it will still work as required for the remaining equipment.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by lumij3
she is an '89. standard if it makes a difference.
OK, now we're talking.
SES is on so what codes specifically is it reporting?
There may be ways to clear each one so you can get through the test.
I know on my 92 the EGR code I get is triggered at highway speed under part throttle. As long as I avoid that circumstance I can keep the SES light off.
If it pops on during the test you can blame the tester for breaking your car
Sounds like the folks that suggested removing the bulb might be a solution for you.
Although removing the bulb or taping it over will work, that won't pass inspection since they'll likely be looking for the light to flash on during the bulb check when you first turn on the ignition. Covering or removing the bulb prevents you from seeing the light when there's a real problem with the car.
If your only issue is the EGR code, that typically isn't on when you first start the car. You can probably fake out the ECM for other sensors that are missing, but the EGR's a tough one to bypass.
ODBII your ONLY option is to reprogram the computer and perform the required drive cycles.
Before 1996 the computer is ODBI and that trick works because they can't talk to the computer.
Excuse me, guys. My C2 is fine but my 90 Suburban 383 just flunked its California smog test for the first time. HC were a hair over max, but fresh plugs should take care of that.
My main problem is an SES light on. The tech's printout said "EGR disconnected". Does that mean a hole in the hose, or stuck open? Doesen't match any GM code answers I can find, so maybe it was a visual?
I never paid attention to the SES light. I bought the truck new and it now has 459,000 miles, the 383 replaced the original 350 at 370,000. Drivability and mileage are fine, 15-16 highway with a 3.73 rear.
Why don’t you either use the car or use a scanner to find out what the codes are. Then you will know what you're up against. Then with that information it may be possible to repair if it is within reason for you. You're not even sure if the stuff you removed pertains to the codes or not.
It could easier to fix it than to go thru all these gyrations.