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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
Use Red Loctite on the three pump stator to the rear pump housing bolts.

Torque them down to 89 in/lbs.

Or Snug and a little bit more by hand with a 1/4" inch drive ratchet.
Use a GOOD T20 or T25 (from my memory) Torx driver bit such as A SNAP ON Torx tool.

The Torx button head bolts round off easily with a poor fitting and cheaply made TORX tool.

BR
Torque them down to 89 in/lbs. are u shure u got me the right torque in/lbs?
please can u verify this..

yeah i will take in consideration all you said in your last post...i already drowe 60 mils with constant preshure plate...and was very street driveble...but did not last very long...and for the input drum..yeah i woild be very glade to have one in titanium...but it would be nice to know how much this titatnium costs...

Brian..could you tell me what is the reversive input drum end play?or what end play did u used in your rebuld?

the progress of my bukd up is going great..i will keep you informed in any step)

thanx a lot for now..
BR,Seba
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:39 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by NeurOn
Torque them down to 89 in/lbs. are u shure u got me the right torque in/lbs?
please can u verify this..

yeah i will take in consideration all you said in your last post...i already drowe 60 mils with constant preshure plate...and was very street driveble...but did not last very long...and for the input drum..yeah i woild be very glade to have one in titanium...but it would be nice to know how much this titatnium costs...

Brian..could you tell me what is the reversive input drum end play?or what end play did u used in your rebuld?

the progress of my bukd up is going great..i will keep you informed in any step)

thanx a lot for now..
BR,Seba
Hi,

I looked in my 87 Corvette service manual for the pump stator shaft button head bolt torque.
I forgot no torque spec is listed for that.
GM only serviced the front pump stator shaft with the rear pump housing as service parts.

Draw the bolts down to 3- 4 ft/lbs or around 40 inch/lbs.
That is plenty.

Titanium is expensive.
All titanium ore comes from Russia I am told.
No titanium ore in the USA.
Titanium metal ore is very expensive to process and purify also to Aerospace standards.

To make a Billet titanium input drum you have to start with a large solid chunk of the materiel and carve or machine out your desired part from there.
Much of the removed materiel during machining will be in chips.
You want to save all the Ti chips.
Still worth $$.

Figure on Titanium metal being at least 50 to 100 times more expensive than an aluminum or steel part of similar construction.

I was only planning on having 2 or 3 Titanium input drums made for a 700R4 & 4L60E trans by my brother in law for my own use.

There is not a whole lot you can do about reverse input drum endplay clearance when the geartrain and input drum is installed with the front pump assembly bolted in place.
If you see around .040- .080" you are OK.

I used a Special roller bearing in my trans to take to the place of the nylon washer used between the reverse input drum and and stator shaft.

Made for extra machine work, careful measuring with a depth Micrometer, and rechecking dozens of times.

It worked out perfectly.

But it was not an easy task to install that special thrust roller bearing.
If you decide to go that route too, you need alot of patience likewise.

It is not 100% necessary but I decided to make my 700R4 trans fully torrington thrust needle bearing equipped with GM NOS 4L65E 5- pinion planetary gearsets.

Installing that torrington needle bearing did eliminate all upshift and downshift clunks everyone complains about in all 700R4 & 4L60E performance transmission builds.

My trans performs better than new, clean and super fast upshifts at part throttle street driving.

When you floor it the trans ushifts very hard and slams you into the seat hard with each automatic gear change upshift.

I hardly ever manually upshift it unless I am playing around drag racing.

I am using the stock GM Valvebody modified by me along with selected Trans Go componets.

Brian
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:49 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
Hi,

I looked in my 87 Corvette service manual for the pump stator shaft button head bolt torque.
I forgot no torque spec is listed for that.
GM only serviced the front pump stator shaft with the rear pump housing as service parts.

Draw the bolts down to 3- 4 ft/lbs or around 40 inch/lbs.
That is plenty.

Titanium is expensive.
All titanium ore comes from Russia I am told.
No titanium ore in the USA.
Titanium metal ore is very expensive to process and purify also to Aerospace standards.

To make a Billet titanium input drum you have to start with a large solid chunk of the materiel and carve or machine out your desired part from there.
Much of the removed materiel during machining will be in chips.
You want to save all the Ti chips.
Still worth $$.

Figure on Titanium metal being at least 50 to 100 times more expensive than an aluminum or steel part of similar construction.

I was only planning on having 2 or 3 Titanium input drums made for a 700R4 & 4L60E trans by my brother in law for my own use.

There is not a whole lot you can do about reverse input drum endplay clearance when the geartrain and input drum is installed with the front pump assembly bolted in place.
If you see around .040- .080" you are OK.

I used a Special roller bearing in my trans to take to the place of the nylon washer used between the reverse input drum and and stator shaft.

Made for extra machine work, careful measuring with a depth Micrometer, and rechecking dozens of times.

It worked out perfectly.

But it was not an easy task to install that special thrust roller bearing.
If you decide to go that route too, you need alot of patience likewise.

It is not 100% necessary but I decided to make my 700R4 trans fully torrington thrust needle bearing equipped with GM NOS 4L65E 5- pinion planetary gearsets.

Installing that torrington needle bearing did eliminate all upshift and downshift clunks everyone complains about in all 700R4 & 4L60E performance transmission builds.

My trans performs better than new, clean and super fast upshifts at part throttle street driving.

When you floor it the trans ushifts very hard and slams you into the seat hard with each automatic gear change upshift.

I hardly ever manually upshift it unless I am playing around drag racing.

I am using the stock GM Valvebody modified by me along with selected Trans Go componets.

Brian
Hi Brian...thanx for help here..i still have few questions...since the reverse imput drum is assembled with 0,052'' and is aplaying super with air test...
now is time to do it with input drum...i have the same as you searched few months ago..GM #8663097...cause some other mechanics alerady played with this trans i find up that my input clutch housing has a steel piston..
1.isn't in the late modes only aliminium pistone allowed and are not interchangable..like in the ATSG maual sais?..
2.are this 3-4 release springs needed?ATSG sais that are not ok to use for improved 2-3 shift and better 3-4 clutch durability...
what do u thing?
BR,Seba
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:39 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by NeurOn
Hi Brian...thanx for help here..i still have few questions...since the reverse imput drum is assembled with 0,052'' and is aplaying super with air test...
now is time to do it with input drum...i have the same as you searched few months ago..GM #8663097...cause some other mechanics alerady played with this trans i find up that my input clutch housing has a steel piston..
1.isn't in the late modes only aliminium pistone allowed and are not interchangable..like in the ATSG maual sais?..
2.are this 3-4 release springs needed?ATSG sais that are not ok to use for improved 2-3 shift and better 3-4 clutch durability...
what do u thing?
BR,Seba
OK..........

The Reverse Input drum is OK.
The clutches within only activate in reverse gear mode.

The 700R4 Input drum............
You are building your trans the 2nd time around yourself for EXTREME PERFORMANCE STREET USE AND DRAG STRIP USE...............

Here is what I would use for Input drum parts in your application.

I personally do not like the the later 3-4 steel clutch apply piston.

I prefer the early style 1987-1/2 to 1993 3-4 aluminum clutch apply piston.

I would use a Billet aluminum 3-4 Forward clutch piston from PATC transmissions in the USA.
Do not mess with the factory aluminum forward clutch piston.

Factory GM forward clutch piston will work but depending upon the RPM's, torque going through the transmission from the engine, very high line pressures over 250 psi..............the factory forward clutch piston may fail without notice.

I would use a SONNEX brand 700R4-4L60E input drum reinforcement billet steel wedding band ring.
This improves the durability of the aluminum input drum under very high torque loads with very hard launches from a dead stop.
The kit should include a Modified Over Run Clutch apply piston to work with the Input drum reinforcement ring.
Follow the directions include in the kit to the "T".
Use green loctite to install the reinforcement ring.

Purchase a TRANSGO Hi-Rev Spring kit for the input drum.
Follow the directions included to the "T" likewise.

Run a SUPERIOR brand 3-4 clutch spring loaded Check - bleed valve.
It prevents high rpm centrifugal force from not releasing 3-4 clutch apply pressure when needed.

Actual friction materials..............

Your choice.
Choose your favorite poison of aftermarket steels and frictions.....
many arguments here likewise by pro trans builders.

I used Kolene steels and Alto Red Eagle frictions throughout my 87-1/2 vert transmission.

And I used a Alto Red Eagle Wide 2-4 band for my transmission.

I spared no expense in my trans.
If I could of found a titanium input drum at the time I would have used that too in my build.

Shopping carefully I spent just under $2K for all my parts and my full assortment of GM Kent Moore service tools.

Minus tools, my build costed me about $1500 in hard parts.

Everyone has a budget to work with always.

My motto is spend the money 1 time or once and get the job done right for my heavy right leadfoot that loves to mash the gas pedal down hard every chance I get.

Brian

Last edited by 87 vette 81 big girl; Apr 10, 2011 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 11:59 PM
  #45  
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Like you have done with the reverse input drum...........air checked it and it passed the test.

Air check the input drum..........

Check the 3-4 clutch apply and release.

Check the Forward Clutch apply and release.

Check the Overrun or coast clutch apply and release.

Absolutely no air leaks are permitted with 100 Psi air pressure applied with a rubber tipped blow gun.

If you find a leak...........

Teardown the input drum again and investigate why that clutch(s)
hydraulic apply and release circuit is leaking.

Brian

Last edited by 87 vette 81 big girl; Apr 11, 2011 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
OK..........

The Reverse Input drum is OK.
The clutches within only activate in reverse gear mode.

The 700R4 Input drum............
You are building your trans the 2nd time around yourself for EXTREME PERFORMANCE STREET USE AND DRAG STRIP USE...............

Here is what I would use for Input drum parts in your application.

I personally do not like the the later 3-4 steel clutch apply piston.

I prefer the early style 1987-1/2 to 1993 3-4 aluminum clutch apply piston.

I would use a Billet aluminum 3-4 Forward clutch piston from PATC transmissions in the USA.
Do not mess with the factory aluminum forward clutch piston.

Factory GM forward clutch piston will work but depending upon the RPM's, torque going through the transmission from the engine, very high line pressures over 250 psi..............the factory forward clutch piston may fail without notice.

I would use a SONNEX brand 700R4-4L60E input drum reinforcement billet steel wedding band ring.
This improves the durability of the aluminum input drum under very high torque loads with very hard launches from a dead stop.
The kit should include a Modified Over Run Clutch apply piston to work with the Input drum reinforcement ring.
Follow the directions include in the kit to the "T".
Use green loctite to install the reinforcement ring.

Purchase a TRANSGO Hi-Rev Spring kit for the input drum.
Follow the directions included to the "T" likewise.

Run a SUPERIOR brand 3-4 clutch spring loaded Check - bleed valve.
It prevents high rpm centrifugal force from not releasing 3-4 clutch apply pressure when needed.

Actual friction materials..............

Your choice.
Choose your favorite poison of aftermarket steels and frictions.....
many arguments here likewise by pro trans builders.

I used Kolene steels and Alto Red Eagle frictions throughout my 87-1/2 vert transmission.

And I used a Alto Red Eagle Wide 2-4 band for my transmission.

I spared no expense in my trans.
If I could of found a titanium input drum at the time I would have used that too in my build.

Shopping carefully I spent just under $2K for all my parts and my full assortment of GM Kent Moore service tools.

Minus tools, my build costed me about $1500 in hard parts.

Everyone has a budget to work with always.

My motto is spend the money 1 time or once and get the job done right for my heavy right leadfoot that loves to mash the gas pedal down hard every chance I get.

Brian
Hi.....
thanx for all good ideas here..i will do my best to do it right..i have transgo 2-3 reprograming kit...and i instaled the hi-rev spring kit..
but i will stick with the TCI preshure regulator for now..and then i will see...how to do it...i have some problems with the lo/reverse piston...cause i bought a new case 93 year...but the lo/reverse psiton is different for this year and the guy doesn't have it anymore;/..i've bought this beause my 3-4 acc was bad...so now i will go with my 91 case and i will not need 3-4 acc, cause will be blocked for my application anyway.....so i will go with the building..and i will check everything from the begining....i have the videos, corvette forum techs, ATSG books and a lot of my good mood)))......

i will use:
-raybestos blue plate 3-4 clutches(6 or 7..i will see on my build clearence and baking plate dimensions...) and wide raybestos hi energy band....
-HI-REV input drum spring kit
-new reverse imput drum AC DELCO
-29 element dual cage sprague(borg)
-TCI constant preshure regulator
-new 10 vane pump with sonnax spring
-sonnax hardened pump support
-the beast sun shell
-new bushings, also new torinton bearings
-PRECISION INDUSTIRES TC vigilante 3200 stall)
....

this is all for now)..
BR,Seba
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:43 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by NeurOn
Hi.....
thanx for all good ideas here..i will do my best to do it right..i have transgo 2-3 reprograming kit...and i instaled the hi-rev spring kit..
but i will stick with the TCI preshure regulator for now..and then i will see...how to do it...i have some problems with the lo/reverse piston...cause i bought a new case 93 year...but the lo/reverse psiton is different for this year and the guy doesn't have it anymore;/..i've bought this beause my 3-4 acc was bad...so now i will go with my 91 case and i will not need 3-4 acc, cause will be blocked for my application anyway.....so i will go with the building..and i will check everything from the begining....i have the videos, corvette forum techs, ATSG books and a lot of my good mood)))......

i will use:
-raybestos blue plate 3-4 clutches(6 or 7..i will see on my build clearence and baking plate dimensions...) and wide raybestos hi energy band....
-HI-REV input drum spring kit
-new reverse imput drum AC DELCO
-29 element dual cage sprague(borg)
-TCI constant preshure regulator
-new 10 vane pump with sonnax spring
-sonnax hardened pump support
-the beast sun shell
-new bushings, also new torinton bearings
-PRECISION INDUSTIRES TC vigilante 3200 stall)
....

this is all for now)..
BR,Seba
You have to use the correct Low/Reverse Apply piston and the matching Low/Reverse One Way Roller clutch support piece.

If you mix up different spec parts you will have problems or failure.

Follow ATSG specs and photos to the "T" in your situation after swapping to a 1993 700R4 trans case.

You may need to purchase correct Low/Revers piston and Low/Reverse support yet.

Do not blow off this check !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't use Raybestos Blue Frictions with Kolene Steels.
Will not last.

Use only plain steels with Raybestos Blue frictions.

That tip comes right from Raybestos enginneers I talked to last year myself.

Big reason why I chose Alto Red Eagle frictions with Kolene Steels throughout my trans.

BR
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:22 PM
  #48  
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You have to spend extra time and hard thinking about the 3-4 clutch setup in Very High Performance 700R4 & 4L60E trans applications like your Vette...... & Like I did with my 87 Vert trans.

Do not forget about the entire 3-4 hydraulic circuits that back up or operate and release the 3-4 clutch pack.

Works in conjunction with the 2-4 band.

The 3-4 clutch is a dynamic clutch in operation, unique from most any other automatic trans.

High torque loads & High RPM's will destroy the 3-4 clutch unless you have everything right the 1st time around.

Many secrets and tricks are not published on internet, ATSG, or GM service manuals.

I learned from 2 pro transmission builder in person that helped me much.

I had to exchange a few racing Horsepower tricks & secrets in return.

Actually disclosed them 1st and caught their attention.

Few hours later they taught me what they knew.

Brian
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #49  
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You do not have all the tricks with the 3-4 clutch and hydraulics I used.

I only told you maybe 10 %.

Just to let you know.

BR
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
You do not have all the tricks with the 3-4 clutch and hydraulics I used.

I only told you maybe 10 %.

Just to let you know.

BR
Brian..did you got my PM?BR,Seba
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 08:40 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by NeurOn
Brian..did you got my PM?BR,Seba
Hi,

Yes I received your PM.

I thought it over.

You are determined to do your build your own way And that is OK.

Every transmission builder does things their own way.

Talk to 100 different trans builders and you will get 100 different recipes to build a 700R4.

There is no right or wrong recipe to success when building a 700R4 unless it does not work or fails early on.

I left plenty of good tips for you in this thread of yours and parts I would wisely use in your 700R4 build if I was going to do it for you.

I used the same parts in my 87-1/2 Vert 700R4 auxiliary valvebody trans.

I built my trans to take up to 600 ft/lbs continuous engine flywheel torque into it and 650 Horsepower at over 7,000 RPM's.
The aluminum input drum may fail at the power level and then it again it may not.
Depends how hard I launch the car, the actual torque converter hit, and how well the rear tires hookup on launch.

I don not know how many RPM's and how much torque and horsepower you are feeding into your 700R4 trans build.

The hydraulic oil mods I made to my trans I want to keep to myself.
Experience from other pro trans builders did not come free to me.
Had to give in to some of my knowledge 1st and help them.

My entire parts build in my trans I have disclosed one time or another already.

You are set on using the TCI constant pressure valvebody.
I know you like it but it turns me off.
I don't like that setup.

You have a Trans Go 2-3 reprogram kit in your trans setup for a full manual valvebody.

Go to the Trans Go main website and find the installation video on the 700R4 2-3 reprogram kit.
The 40 minute long installation video will be of great help to you.

I watched that video last year before tackling my 700R4 rebuild.
Many tips from that video were helpful to me later.

Brian

Last edited by 87 vette 81 big girl; Apr 14, 2011 at 08:42 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 08:45 PM
  #52  
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Thank you for your wisdom??????????
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Bronze85
Thank you for your wisdom??????????
You are an auto technician............

Figure out what I did for all hydraulic mods on my own 700R4 trans from where you are at home right now.

I knew all along you were looking and reading my posts.

I never forgot that.

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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #54  
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I can read Hot Rod magazine and quote manufacturers and nomenclature as well.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
You do not have all the tricks with the 3-4 clutch and hydraulics I used.

I only told you maybe 10 %.

Just to let you know.

BR
OOhhh tell us more, please, we're all waiting at your feet almighty.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:17 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Bronze85
OOhhh tell us more, please, we're all waiting at your feet almighty.
No we are waiting at your feet dude.
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 02:59 AM
  #57  
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hi everyone...i don't wanna be rude..but i don't wan't that u argue here...i live very far away from ya dudes(europe)...and knowledge is for me all...i don't have junckjards to buy cores and parts like you did...i don't have anyone who can help me here in Slovenia..here are no shops, no trans shops...nothing...so everything i do i do it to make it right by my own first time...i had already problems with this transmission and 5 times my trans fail....i didn't know nothing about this transmissions when i bought my corvette..the clever mechanics here told me a lot of bullshit and they had all the time they own right...and they blame everything that trans failed and they never saw them like they did something wrong...ouch yeah...they never been wrong...they did a great job and i lost 4k $ of my money..oh yeah...if i would know this, i would probably bought it renewed with all prefomance parts right away from the US...but no...i let that this so konwn experts did the job...so all last mechanics blame previous mechanic...look what he did...because of this the failure heppend...so my last drive last fof 60 mills...and you can see why i am so sceptic about all this...

so i deicided to do it on my own...and i asked for help here...since PeteK is very bussy with his job...Brian helped me out somehow...and i apriciate this...so i wan't to thank him for doin' this for me.........

....and now when i opened the transmisson..i saw the big mistakes that last dude did...lo/reverse piston leaking was first thing that i noticed...bushings were not changed...even if we diddn't know the real mileage of this trans..is an 90' trans on my 86 corvette....because a lot of cleaver dudes messed arround with my trans...i have now to figure out what parts are ok and what are not...and which will fit my transimssion...and which will not..this is not an easy task but i will manage it somehow..with videos and ATSG manuals......
since i work with heat pumps and repair TRANE chilers..like a full time job...and i am an engineer... i will probably do it right....

so i would be very glade that u guy help me out....also oil mods would be great to have..but if you wanna bring that secrets to the grave it's also ok for me...i will probably figure them out..but probably not with this transmission...so it will wait for another build....

i changed my 90' case with 93' case because of ruin 3-4 accumulator...(it was fastest than buy a sonnax sleeve kit for this..because is a season here and my vette is still in my garage..)... but the guy who sold me this didn't find the lo/reverse piston which is just ok for year 93'...so i will use my 90' case and like i saw i don't need this acc because it wil be blocked..so everything is ok...a lot of work was now thrown away but..when i will find this piston..i will make another trans...

my opinon is that u stop attacking each other here...your help is very usefull here..but like i can see, here is not like it was before...i don't know what you have here to bite each other..and i even don't care...like i said, i aprichiate everyone's opinion...what i will do with this informations is then my own judgment...

Thanx for all help here...if someone like to share some oil mods with me i would be very happy and can send me this on my email themindmachine@gmail.com ....i am not your competition..i will not steal your bussiness...i will not take your clients to came here 10K-15k mills away to do the job here...so why are this secrets so scary??

Thanx again for all who helped me here...GREETINGS FROM SLOVENIA!
I will post all my findings here...

BR,Seba
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 07:32 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by NeurOn
hi everyone...i don't wanna be rude..but i don't wan't that u argue here...i live very far away from ya dudes(europe)...and knowledge is for me all...i don't have junckjards to buy cores and parts like you did...i don't have anyone who can help me here in Slovenia..here are no shops, no trans shops...nothing...so everything i do i do it to make it right by my own first time...i had already problems with this transmission and 5 times my trans fail....i didn't know nothing about this transmissions when i bought my corvette..the clever mechanics here told me a lot of bullshit and they had all the time they own right...and they blame everything that trans failed and they never saw them like they did something wrong...ouch yeah...they never been wrong...they did a great job and i lost 4k $ of my money..oh yeah...if i would know this, i would probably bought it renewed with all prefomance parts right away from the US...but no...i let that this so konwn experts did the job...so all last mechanics blame previous mechanic...look what he did...because of this the failure heppend...so my last drive last fof 60 mills...and you can see why i am so sceptic about all this...

so i deicided to do it on my own...and i asked for help here...since PeteK is very bussy with his job...Brian helped me out somehow...and i apriciate this...so i wan't to thank him for doin' this for me.........

....and now when i opened the transmisson..i saw the big mistakes that last dude did...lo/reverse piston leaking was first thing that i noticed...bushings were not changed...even if we diddn't know the real mileage of this trans..is an 90' trans on my 86 corvette....because a lot of cleaver dudes messed arround with my trans...i have now to figure out what parts are ok and what are not...and which will fit my transimssion...and which will not..this is not an easy task but i will manage it somehow..with videos and ATSG manuals......
since i work with heat pumps and repair TRANE chilers..like a full time job...and i am an engineer... i will probably do it right....

so i would be very glade that u guy help me out....also oil mods would be great to have..but if you wanna bring that secrets to the grave it's also ok for me...i will probably figure them out..but probably not with this transmission...so it will wait for another build....

i changed my 90' case with 93' case because of ruin 3-4 accumulator...(it was fastest than buy a sonnax sleeve kit for this..because is a season here and my vette is still in my garage..)... but the guy who sold me this didn't find the lo/reverse piston which is just ok for year 93'...so i will use my 90' case and like i saw i don't need this acc because it wil be blocked..so everything is ok...a lot of work was now thrown away but..when i will find this piston..i will make another trans...

my opinon is that u stop attacking each other here...your help is very usefull here..but like i can see, here is not like it was before...i don't know what you have here to bite each other..and i even don't care...like i said, i aprichiate everyone's opinion...what i will do with this informations is then my own judgment...

Thanx for all help here...if someone like to share some oil mods with me i would be very happy and can send me this on my email themindmachine@gmail.com ....i am not your competition..i will not steal your bussiness...i will not take your clients to came here 10K-15k mills away to do the job here...so why are this secrets so scary??

Thanx again for all who helped me here...GREETINGS FROM SLOVENIA!
I will post all my findings here...

BR,Seba
I will help you out anyway I can.

But I will not reveal the hole, orffice sizes I used along with other hydraulic tricks I used.

You can see from last night I have a real fan base on C4.

Bronze 85 just wants use for my knowledge and then shoot me dead.

Be sure to watch the Trans Go 700R4 2-3 Installation video.

Also my oil & hydraulic mods are not listed on Hotrod or Carcraft.
I spent over 2 months researching the internet and all American car magazines.

Whats in my trans remains in the car and knowledge that goes with stays in my head.

Brian
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #59  
87 vette 81 big girl's Avatar
87 vette 81 big girl
Melting Slicks
 
Joined: Nov 2008
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Seba,
You are over thinking the build. Not sure how much power you are making, but if you are under 450 hp, and don't plan to spend much time above 6000 rpm, you don't need much.
Blueprint your bearing clearances, and your clutchpacks to numbers you think are correct.
I ran a stock (blueprinted) trans for 10 years with zero failures. Combination of luck, and proper clearances.
My free advice to you is to not listen to others, and do what you know is right.
It is a combination of blueprinting, doing what you think is correct, listening to others or not, and having some luck...........

I agree Pete.


Brian
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #60  
NeurOn's Avatar
NeurOn
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 125
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From: kanal/Slovenia/Europe
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PeteK i know that u only have good advices to all of us rookies here..and thanx also to Bian for all the help...

i am proceeding good with my build...i will post all in the future...
i will hook on my trans somehow about 400-500HP with the new engine...
which i have allready in my garage..but this will be a new project for me to play..
i am doing everything with the ATSG manuals and videos with your advices and then i took my ressonable way...you guys have a lot of experiance on this field..but i have the courage to do it on my own)))...
too bad that my trans was cooked by too many cooks...like PeteK said on his build...butchers....and i have to do all my researches and it's realy time consuming...
so thanx a lot for all this help here...
i will let u know about results..
BR,Seba
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