Transverse Spring Vs. Coilover Lowering
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,316
Likes: 246
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
I found these by Bilstein, kinda neat 46mm which would be 1.82 inches are so. A 1-7/8 spring would barely fit over. But you would have to adapt the stud and TieBar on, but the compressed and extended lengths are very close 10 and 13 inches
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BS...2030/?rtype=10
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BS...2030/?rtype=10
My rears are 46mm Bilsteins, and my sleeves that fit them are 2.350" OD, so a 2 1/2" ID spring is as small as I can go.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
The metal dust shield just slips off the top.
Here is the shock from Bilstein's site
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/24-002288/1041219
Here is the shock from Bilstein's site
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/24-002288/1041219
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
You know, another approach is to cut the top parallel flat piece off so there is no top on it.
Then flare the sides out the way you want them, then weld 1/8" thick supports to the side of the tower, just take cardboard and trace a template of each side and cut a piece of 1/8" steel from Home Depot ,, same width and length etc.
Then buy a piece of 1/4" CRS thick by the length and width of the top plate on the car,, and weld it on the top and weld it to the sides, with the side and top pieces cut to size using just a basic band saw or cutoff wheel, this could all be welded up and you would be much much better off in terms of strength.
Then flare the sides out the way you want them, then weld 1/8" thick supports to the side of the tower, just take cardboard and trace a template of each side and cut a piece of 1/8" steel from Home Depot ,, same width and length etc.
Then buy a piece of 1/4" CRS thick by the length and width of the top plate on the car,, and weld it on the top and weld it to the sides, with the side and top pieces cut to size using just a basic band saw or cutoff wheel, this could all be welded up and you would be much much better off in terms of strength.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3
From: Seattle Area WA
Those are threaded bodies so only the perches are needed, no sleeve. They might work, but I'd call bilstein to ask what spring sizes they can take. Also, if you are going to a different shock as opposed to Vette Bilsteins, you'd probably want to get them from Bilstein with a vette specific valving built in. Otherwise you might be at a handling loss when all is said and done.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,316
Likes: 246
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Those are threaded bodies so only the perches are needed, no sleeve. They might work, but I'd call bilstein to ask what spring sizes they can take. Also, if you are going to a different shock as opposed to Vette Bilsteins, you'd probably want to get them from Bilstein with a vette specific valving built in. Otherwise you might be at a handling loss when all is said and done.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: BOHEMIA NY
Here is a great source for the sleeve kits for the shocks.They also sell hyperco springs and all sorts of stuff!
http://shop.a1racing.com/coiloverkits.aspx
Is this where u are getting your sleeves from agent86?
Did you have your shocks modded for clips to retain sleeves?
Thanks man!
http://shop.a1racing.com/coiloverkits.aspx
Is this where u are getting your sleeves from agent86?
Did you have your shocks modded for clips to retain sleeves?
Thanks man!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,316
Likes: 246
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Here is a great source for the sleeve kits for the shocks.They also sell hyperco springs and all sorts of stuff!
http://shop.a1racing.com/coiloverkits.aspx
Is this where u are getting your sleeves from agent86?
Did you have your shocks modded for clips to retain sleeves?
Thanks man!
http://shop.a1racing.com/coiloverkits.aspx
Is this where u are getting your sleeves from agent86?
Did you have your shocks modded for clips to retain sleeves?
Thanks man!
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,316
Likes: 246
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Who did you order from ?
What parts you have coming ?
My front sleeve kits arrived today, they were supposed to be black, but they are silver.
I will live with it 
I mocked one up to get a rough idea on what I will need to do.
Looks like a flare of about 2 red hairs, will be required on the towers.
Sway bar relocation is most likely not needed, as a slight shaping of the backside of sway end link bracket, will give more clearance(bar it self is not even close).
I will know better when I get to the front, as I'm working on the back suspension now.
Neither of my kits came with snap rings. Yesterday I ordered the correct snap rings direct from Bilstein in California. If you need snap rings, call Wes at Bilstein, great guy to deal with and get info.
What parts you have coming ?
My front sleeve kits arrived today, they were supposed to be black, but they are silver.
I will live with it I mocked one up to get a rough idea on what I will need to do.
Looks like a flare of about 2 red hairs, will be required on the towers.
Sway bar relocation is most likely not needed, as a slight shaping of the backside of sway end link bracket, will give more clearance(bar it self is not even close).
I will know better when I get to the front, as I'm working on the back suspension now.
Neither of my kits came with snap rings. Yesterday I ordered the correct snap rings direct from Bilstein in California. If you need snap rings, call Wes at Bilstein, great guy to deal with and get info.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
Who did you order from ?
What parts you have coming ?
My front sleeve kits arrived today, they were supposed to be black, but they are silver. I will live with it
I mocked one up to get a rough idea on what I will need to do.
Looks like a flare of about 2 red hairs, will be required on the towers.
Sway bar relocation is most likely not needed, as a slight shaping of the backside of sway end link bracket, will give more clearance(bar it self is not even close).
I will know better when I get to the front, as I'm working on the back suspension now.
Neither of my kits came with snap rings. Yesterday I ordered the correct snap rings direct from Bilstein in California. If you need snap rings, call Wes at Bilstein, great guy to deal with and get info.
What parts you have coming ?
My front sleeve kits arrived today, they were supposed to be black, but they are silver.
I will live with it I mocked one up to get a rough idea on what I will need to do.
Looks like a flare of about 2 red hairs, will be required on the towers.
Sway bar relocation is most likely not needed, as a slight shaping of the backside of sway end link bracket, will give more clearance(bar it self is not even close).
I will know better when I get to the front, as I'm working on the back suspension now.
Neither of my kits came with snap rings. Yesterday I ordered the correct snap rings direct from Bilstein in California. If you need snap rings, call Wes at Bilstein, great guy to deal with and get info.
Thats funny... I spoke to Wes today twice
The outside measurement of the springs are 2.25 inches so I was thinking of taking a 2x4 and cutting it to the correct size. Then trying to draw it up from botom of the tower using a large C-clamp. This way maybe it would keep the sides straighter and cleaner looking.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
I talked to him about that. It cost 10 bucks ea to do them. Which is fine..however to ship from NY to CA takes 8 days then back would be another 8 days plus the cost of shipping. Add that to the cost of shipping everything to me first. I was very close to just buying exotic muscle's today. By the time I got done buying the parts $435, then it I did what I said above the differance would be only a few bucks plus less aggravation.
There is a CNC shop locally I'm gonna talk to.
There is a CNC shop locally I'm gonna talk to.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
It was Dan that had gotten me motivated to move forward with this.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 830
Likes: 6
This is an 84,Z51 suspension
Rear height- floor to top of wheel well 27"
Front height- floor to top of wheel well almost 28"
Been trying to figure out for months why all of a sudden the height is so much higher. Haven't found any reason for it.... At this point I'm past that.
My Goal is to get the front down to just under 27", 26.75 would be perfect
A few weeks ago I raised the car up and removed the front transverse spring. I bought a softer spring from an 87... HMZ is the code. It has a higher arch than the Z51 I had removed.
I shaved the rubbers down to almost the spring... even have the new style retainers.....
The C4 had multiple spring suppliers, each apparently had it's own color code. There was a significant height difference between the suppliers. Changing springs is likely your answer.
then I got to thinkin..... maybe coilovers would be the best way to go. They would give definetly give me an adjustment of 0-3 inches to lower.
Now... I've been debating what if the monospring doesn't work the way I want it to... i don't want to do this job twice. So I started shoping around and asking questions/searching.
Bought the QA-1's.... they are NOT going in the stock tower..even if you flare the sides out. I do not have the ability to weld nor am I going to pay a welder to come to me.
Now I'm looking into using the 36MM Bilsteins with 1-7/8 I.D spring.
Now that you know what I'm up to which route would you go? (QA1's are out of the question at this point)
I've also searched an searched but can someone actually confirm that this size spring... 1-7/8 I.D actually work with just flaring out the stock towers?
A picture would be great if anyone has one.
Rear height- floor to top of wheel well 27"
Front height- floor to top of wheel well almost 28"
Been trying to figure out for months why all of a sudden the height is so much higher. Haven't found any reason for it.... At this point I'm past that.
My Goal is to get the front down to just under 27", 26.75 would be perfect
A few weeks ago I raised the car up and removed the front transverse spring. I bought a softer spring from an 87... HMZ is the code. It has a higher arch than the Z51 I had removed.
I shaved the rubbers down to almost the spring... even have the new style retainers.....
The C4 had multiple spring suppliers, each apparently had it's own color code. There was a significant height difference between the suppliers. Changing springs is likely your answer.
then I got to thinkin..... maybe coilovers would be the best way to go. They would give definetly give me an adjustment of 0-3 inches to lower.
Now... I've been debating what if the monospring doesn't work the way I want it to... i don't want to do this job twice. So I started shoping around and asking questions/searching.
Bought the QA-1's.... they are NOT going in the stock tower..even if you flare the sides out. I do not have the ability to weld nor am I going to pay a welder to come to me.
Now I'm looking into using the 36MM Bilsteins with 1-7/8 I.D spring.
Now that you know what I'm up to which route would you go? (QA1's are out of the question at this point)
I've also searched an searched but can someone actually confirm that this size spring... 1-7/8 I.D actually work with just flaring out the stock towers?
A picture would be great if anyone has one.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
You know, another approach is to cut the top parallel flat piece off so there is no top on it.
Then flare the sides out the way you want them, then weld 1/8" thick supports to the side of the tower, just take cardboard and trace a template of each side and cut a piece of 1/8" steel from Home Depot ,, same width and length etc.
Then buy a piece of 1/4" CRS thick by the length and width of the top plate on the car,, and weld it on the top and weld it to the sides, with the side and top pieces cut to size using just a basic band saw or cutoff wheel, this could all be welded up and you would be much much better off in terms of strength.
Then flare the sides out the way you want them, then weld 1/8" thick supports to the side of the tower, just take cardboard and trace a template of each side and cut a piece of 1/8" steel from Home Depot ,, same width and length etc.
Then buy a piece of 1/4" CRS thick by the length and width of the top plate on the car,, and weld it on the top and weld it to the sides, with the side and top pieces cut to size using just a basic band saw or cutoff wheel, this could all be welded up and you would be much much better off in terms of strength.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
Naturally I don't have any parts yet to do the coilovers. However I was playing out in the garage and came up with an idea. I took a piece of PVC with an outside diameter of 2-3/8, which a 1-7/8 I.D spring should have an O.D of about 2-1/4. I made my pieces 11 inches long. Placed them over a KYB shock and bolted it up. Raised my lower control arm and came up with the following pics
I had plenty of room all the way around top to bottom. It didn't even appear to interfere with the sway bar joint. Of course the true test will be when installing the actual spring but I thought this is a positive result and if it does have to be flared it won't be by much.
I had plenty of room all the way around top to bottom. It didn't even appear to interfere with the sway bar joint. Of course the true test will be when installing the actual spring but I thought this is a positive result and if it does have to be flared it won't be by much.
