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I think the dyno thing has been discussed a few times. Have you done a leakdown and compression test?
I have done a compression test before I started the motor after installing the heads. I did that to check for a head gasket leak, because the first time around the gaskets leaked.
I'm going to pull the timing chain cover off today and see if maybe the timing marks are off and also I'll do a compression and leak down test.
Why bother with all the extra work? If the car runs and you can drive it, go to the dyno guys and get a baseline to see what the motor is putting out. Then you can start backtracking to see if something is not right.
Right now you are just wasting your time and energy. Especially if you have no idea of the HP and torque the engine is putting out.
Why bother with all the extra work? If the car runs and you can drive it, go to the dyno guys and get a baseline to see what the motor is putting out. Then you can start backtracking to see if something is not right.
Right now you are just wasting your time and energy. Especially if you have no idea of the HP and torque the engine is putting out.
Because when I go to the dyno I am going to tune it to the correct AFR, if something mechanically is off, I want to make sure I correct it so I don't have to pay twice for the dyno.
Daniel I will try to be as clear as I can. If I were you I would be doing this.
1. stop using butt dyno and getting your engine "repaired" over the phone call
2. do nothing until you get to dyno.
3. while in there, tune for most hp and torq you can. Dont aim for "magical" 12.8 afr, tune for what ever gives you most power.
4. post your results here, not the numbers but the picture of dyno sheet.
I'm going to pull the timing chain cover off today and see if maybe the timing marks are off and also I'll do a compression and leak down test.
Originally Posted by c4cruiser
Why bother with all the extra work? If the car runs and you can drive it, go to the dyno guys and get a baseline to see what the motor is putting out. Then you can start backtracking to see if something is not right.
Right now you are just wasting your time and energy. Especially if you have no idea of the HP and torque the engine is putting out.
Please listen to this^ man.
Ya don't even know if you have a problem or not! Yet you're going to tear into the motor again? Ya have a dyno day scheduled...right?
HOLY CRAP! I think I found something! I was looking at my harmonic balancer when it was off, and I was thinking to myself, what if it spun? I went over to look at my D.U.I. distributor with a clear cap, and looked around for the rotor. I'm thinking this should be about 10* before the number 1 cylinder post on the cap. Well It wasn't. It was all the way on the other side of the cap! 180* out! How the hell is this engine running 180* out???
I have an MSD ignition box with multiple spark, would that multiple spark keep it running?
The timing marks are lined up still on the timing gears, crank at 12 o'clock, cam at 6 o'clock.
Yes, I have some ideas, but for the most part, I'll bite my tongue.
One thing I'll share however, is that the car WON'T run w/the distributor 180* out, so you're either misunderstanding something, or many things. It's not 180 out (since it runs/drives, as you claim).
Daniel here a pic from my rotor/cap/ignition module tune up,it seems to me your cap is in a different position,specially looking at BATT TACH connector
[IMG][/IMG]
this is the correct orientation of the cap in relation to a fine positioned distributor assy
look at the distributor base,the ECM/ignition module connector is pointed to the rear agaist the windshield,while your cable is coming out from distributor base in a different position see video 1:12,it comes out lined with distributor clamp ...
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Last edited by tunedport85inject; May 21, 2014 at 02:51 PM.
HOLY CRAP! I think I found something! I was looking at my harmonic balancer when it was off, and I was thinking to myself, what if it spun? I went over to look at my D.U.I. distributor with a clear cap, and looked around for the rotor. I'm thinking this should be about 10* before the number 1 cylinder post on the cap. Well It wasn't. It was all the way on the other side of the cap! 180* out! How the hell is this engine running 180* out???
I have an MSD ignition box with multiple spark, would that multiple spark keep it running?
The timing marks are lined up still on the timing gears, crank at 12 o'clock, cam at 6 o'clock.
Any ideas???
With your level of knowledge, how did you assemble this engine?
You are way over your head here... take the car to the shop and let the professionals fix it.
With your level of knowledge, how did you assemble this engine?
You are way over your head here... take the car to the shop and let the professionals fix it.
Been there, done that, they couldn't fix it. I have a lot of knowledge about cars. The only reason why I ask it to confirm. You guys make me think I'm crazy, and in the end the things that I was talking about are persistent problems.
It doesn't benefit me if someone else does my work for me. That's what I do for a living, fix cars.
Been there, done that, they couldn't fix it. I have a lot of knowledge about cars. The only reason why I ask it to confirm. You guys make me think I'm crazy, and in the end the things that I was talking about are persistent problems.
It doesn't benefit me if someone else does my work for me. That's what I do for a living, fix cars.
Maybe its just not broken bud. we keep trying to tell you that.
What did the shop that built it say was wrong/not wrong?