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Then you should know that your cylinder 1 tdc is when you have both of your marks 12 o'clock. With crank mark on 12 o'clock and cam mark 6 o'clock you should be firing to cylinder 6, and you are.
Put it back together, hit the dyno and let us know.
Then you should know that your cylinder 1 tdc is when you have both of your marks 12 o'clock. With crank mark on 12 o'clock and cam mark 6 o'clock you should be firing to cylinder 6, and you are.
Put it back together, hit the dyno and let us know.
I think you're mistaken. I've had 3 people from 3 different shops come over and take a look, they all agreed that it was 180 out. Plus, I took my old cam and my old timing gear, put the gear on the dowel pin on the cam and had the timing mark at 6 oclock. In the position, cylinder 1 intake valve just finished closing, meaning that it was time to fire the cylinder, I rotated it clock wise, the next valve up was the exhaust valve, then immediately after, the intake.
Sorry buddy if i insists,i see your base out about 90 degree,but someone correct me if i'm wrong
look at position of cable on the base
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look at your cable position it's lined with the distributor clamp
[IMG][/IMG]
I think you're mistaken. I've had 3 people from 3 different shops come over and take a look, they all agreed that it was 180 out. Plus, I took my old cam and my old timing gear, put the gear on the dowel pin on the cam and had the timing mark at 6 oclock. In the position, cylinder 1 intake valve just finished closing, meaning that it was time to fire the cylinder, I rotated it clock wise, the next valve up was the exhaust valve, then immediately after, the intake.
Sorry buddy if i insists,i see your base out about 90 degree,but someone correct me if i'm wrong
look at position of cable on the base
[IMG][/IMG]
look at your cable position it's lined with the distributor clamp
[IMG][/IMG]
This is an aftermarket distributor. Also, the base timing on mine has been changed from what factory was. Among other reasons.
^It doesn't really matter where the distributor body is oriented (where the "cap is pointing")
Originally Posted by DanielRicany
I think you're mistaken. I've had 3 people from 3 different shops come over and take a look, they all agreed that it was 180 out. Plus, I took my old cam and my old timing gear, put the gear on the dowel pin on the cam and had the timing mark at 6 oclock. In the position, cylinder 1 intake valve just finished closing, meaning that it was time to fire the cylinder, I rotated it clock wise, the next valve up was the exhaust valve, then immediately after, the intake.
It's really hard to believe that you "fix cars for a living" but you can't see this basic thing.
You JUST explained the cycles of a 4 stroke engine above. Tell us: if the spark fires between exhaust and intake TDC with both valves open (overlap and no cylinder pressure).....HOW IS THE ENGINE GOING TO RUN???
It won't. Your engine can't be 180 and run. It's not 180 out.
Just talked to 2 people who said they've had it run 180 out.
Well tell those 2 people to fix it for you.
I can't tell how many times I have had friends or other so called techs replace and intake or dizzy then come to me because the car would not start. The problem was always the same.
This is getting absolutely ridiculous.
This reminds me of an autozone employee who insisted I did not have a factory chevy big block 454 in my 72 Monte Carlo because the distributor was not in the front of the engine. He refused to sell me a Comp Cam. I had to sign a waiver for him to sell it to me. Haha.
^It doesn't really matter where the distributor body is oriented (where the "cap is pointing")
It's really hard to believe that you "fix cars for a living" but you can't see this basic thing.
You JUST explained the cycles of a 4 stroke engine above. Tell us: if the spark fires between exhaust and intake TDC with both valves open (overlap and no cylinder pressure).....HOW IS THE ENGINE GOING TO RUN???
It won't. Your engine can't be 180 and run. It's not 180 out.
I never said compression happened during overlap. When the camshaft was at the 6 o'clock mark, both valves were closed. Rotate the cam clockwise, go maybe 3/4 of a turn, now its the exhaust valve open, right before the exhaust valve closes the intake starts opening, then it repeats the process. Right after that intake valve is closed, according to the cam lobes, the cylinder is firing.
^It doesn't really matter where the distributor body is oriented (where the "cap is pointing")
It's really hard to believe that you "fix cars for a living" but you can't see this basic thing.
You JUST explained the cycles of a 4 stroke engine above. Tell us: if the spark fires between exhaust and intake TDC with both valves open (overlap and no cylinder pressure).....HOW IS THE ENGINE GOING TO RUN???
It won't. Your engine can't be 180 and run. It's not 180 out.
I have purposely put the distributor body in different orientation on a couple of motor swaps so the wiring was easier, but it does not have any effect on the car running. It is only the position of the rotor matching to the cap/wire that needs to fire.
You said you have had 3 guys from 3 shops tell you it is 180° out, then you need to find some new shops.
I have purposely put the distributor body in different orientation on a couple of motor swaps so the wiring was easier, but it does not have any effect on the car running. It is only the position of the rotor matching to the cap/wire that needs to fire.
You said you have had 3 guys from 3 shops tell you it is 180° out, then you need to find some new shops.
Keep in mind, he is probably talking to people who have never seen a dizzy before.
right before the exhaust valve closes the intake starts opening,
And where is the piston at this point? It's at TDC. There is no compression, there is no fuel. You throw a spark at that point (which would be your 180 out) and guess what?? NO FIRE! Ding ding ding!! The engine won't run, buddy!
Originally Posted by DanielRicany
Did no one watch my video?
We all did which is why we're all shaking our heads at you. Palm slapping, if you will.
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Do 85's have the same reference wire that 89's have? You know the (brown) one you have to disconnect before setting the timing? Have you done so? Does the 85 bin have the same offset shown in later bins -- where you indicate the mechanical advance locked into your distributor?
Are you sure you have 35-deg total advance AND your balancer hasn't slipped, and you set the timing right and you've indicated base timing in your bin?
Anyone drive a car with the timing 10-20 degree's out? Anyone impressed with how that ran?
Since you like to tear your engine down, try this: take your driver side valve cover off. rotate your crank untill your #1 exhaust valve just finish closing and #1 intake valve starts to open. Now turn your crank one full turn. Where are your timing marks and where is your dist. rotor? I know where they going to be, but since you like to learn new, you should try it
I never said compression happened during overlap. When the camshaft was at the 6 o'clock mark, both valves were closed. Rotate the cam clockwise, go maybe 3/4 of a turn, now its the exhaust valve open, right before the exhaust valve closes the intake starts opening, then it repeats the process. Right after that intake valve is closed, according to the cam lobes, the cylinder is firing.
Did no one watch my video?
Daniel, I watched your video and it is correct, it was pointed at #6 as stated by a few people. When you install the cam it is easier to see if the cam is installed correctly by lining the crank up at 12:00 and the cam at 6:00, so that is how the most people install the cam. The issue is you cannot install and line up the distributor at this position on number one cylinder because it will be 180 degrees out and the car will not run. If you wanted to install the distributor when the cam and crank were lined up you would install it so the rotor was pointing at cylinder #6 like your video showed. Otherwise you would turn the engine over 1 revolution and install the distributor at cylinder #1 when the crank and cam marks are at 12:00.
Your distributor is installed correctly and the distributor is not 180 degrees out. The engine will not run at 180 degrees out no matter what your two mechanic friends said.
It's hard to tell. 90% of his threads/posts just scream "TROLL!" to me. I mean...who seriously asks these questions and has these issues, this often, this fast....very questionable. It has the ring of "84L83/85L98" et al. But then he posts a video which is a pretty good indicator that actual work may have been done.
What ever the case....He claims to be a mechanic....I sure wouldn't want him working on MY car! Wow.
It's hard to tell. 90% of his threads/posts just scream "TROLL!" to me. I mean...who seriously asks these questions and has these issues, this often, this fast....very questionable. It has the ring of "84L83/85L98" et al. But then he posts a video which is a pretty good indicator that actual work may have been done.
What ever the case....He claims to be a mechanic....I sure wouldn't want him working on MY car! Wow.
You're just an *** hole to everybody. I come to you for help and you insult me and put me down. You can go screw.