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Nice buddy, I remember installing mine back a few years ago. Was a fun time. Your actually not that far off from starting up the engine.Most of the fast stuff will just plug into the factory sensors. Just need a pressure regular set at 63 psl Even the factory vette pump will do that. I'm still running my stock unit. I hate fixing stuff that isn't broken.
Nice buddy, I remember installing mine back a few years ago. Was a fun time. Your actually not that far off from starting up the engine.Most of the fast stuff will just plug into the factory sensors. Just need a pressure regular set at 63 psl Even the factory vette pump will do that. I'm still running my stock unit. I hate fixing stuff that isn't broken.
I have a racetronix 255 lph in tank with hotwire upgrade from my old engine. I ordered up some fuel line fittings to plumb this little B up
Once everything is settled in, are you going to be able to pull the balancer without lifting the engine or removing the rack?
The way mine sets in, it is a piece of cake to remove the balancer without touching anything else.
Jeremy, you have any updates? Which cam did you go with again? I can't wait to hear that engine roar. This has to be the best build thread going for the C4's. Thanks buddy for sharing.
Ran into a bit of a snag. The engine is an extremely tight fit, so I am going to have to unbolt the trans and move it forward one notch on the adapter plates. the next hole forward is .600" forward which should hopefully be enough to get me some firewall clearance.
However that only leaves me with about .400" clearance from the steering rack to the front of the balancer.
Pulled the engine forward and it looks like i'm going to get by running this balancer/accessory setup.
I hacked the collector off the header real quickly, and it tucks right in! Just going to have to persuade one of the brake lines because its really close to #5 primary.
The 45 degree mandrel bend i bought to correct the angle of the header away from the trans is going to be damn near perfect. All i'll have to do is cut the collector back towards the primaries a little more and slam that 45 on there
I set the intake on there just for ***** and giggles
Last edited by Pwnage1337; Jun 15, 2019 at 01:04 AM.
Just going to clearance the #2 and #8 primaries with a hammer to get them away from the AC box and the frame, accounting for engine twist in the bay.
Tomorrow I am going to unbolt the motor mounts and shim the engine up a little bit. I don't like how close it is to the drivers side firewall, right above #7 primary. It is like 1/16" away from touching the firewall. I think if i shim it up 1/8" or so I will be a little more comfortable. not sure how much this one will twist but my 383 twisted a fair bit on the pedestals
Last edited by Pwnage1337; Jun 15, 2019 at 12:00 AM.
So c5 longtubes fit if you cut the collectors off?
Yes. I cut the collector off and pulled the engine forward .600" from it's stock positioning and it will take a little clearancing on the passenger side for the evap box and the frame. Im just gonna crack it with a hammer to get 1/2" clearance. I am going to wrap them anyways.
Edit:
I should clarify that the #8 primary isn't touching the evap box, there is about .75" to maybe an inch clearance there, I just want a little more to be safe. The #2 primary is just barely touching the frame, and will end up with only 1/2" or so of clearance to account for engine twist
Last edited by Pwnage1337; Jun 15, 2019 at 01:44 PM.
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Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Even the factory vette pump will do that. I'm still running my stock unit.
I hate fixing stuff that isn't broken.
