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Driving home last night I noticed the AC in my 1996 C4 stopped blowing cold and then I saw some smoke coming from under the hood so I pulled over and discovered the melted rubber oozing from the compressor clutch and splashed a bit around onto the surrounding area. is this a compressor failure or a clutch failure? Clutches are $$$ so I am not sure if I should take a chance and just replace the clutch or just replace everything assuming the compressor has locked up.
I think that the air conditioning compressor is from 1988 through 1996 are the same. These compressors are prone to front seal failure. At least that’s what I have seen. I think you’re going to need a new compressor just by going from what I’ve read.
They really are a pain in the backside , from what I’ve experienced.
My 2005 Tacoma just did the same thing. I replaced the clutch hub with a $25 replacement from eBay. Works perfectly. There is a great write up on the Tacoma forums with pics. The clutch looks just like the one on the corvette and the corvette part is much more accessible. 10 minute job.
I doubt there are leaks. Working fine until the clutch failed.
What I don’t know is did the compressor have a mechanical malfunction?
Yes but once the clutch failed, you should check the system for leaks before you plunge any more money and time. If it has a slow leak, this is the time to fix it. If the compressor is seizing or has rough spots, same.
Can the compressor turn freely without issues? If not, you may have to remove the clutch to see if the shaft will turn.
If rubber is coming out, it's the clutch. Have seen that. You can also test the static pressure (70 -95 depending on ambient temp), if there is Freon the compressor is probably OK.
There was a discussion within the last 2 years or so if it was possible to replace the clutch without removing the compressor and the lines. The answer is yes. Someone did do it but I can't find the thread. Some special tools were required like deep snap ring pliers. So if you can find the information on it, that would help greatly.
Yes but once the clutch failed, you should check the system for leaks before you plunge any more money and time. If it has a slow leak, this is the time to fix it. If the compressor is seizing or has rough spots, same.
Can the compressor turn freely without issues? If not, you may have to remove the clutch to see if the shaft will turn.
All good suggestions. Seeing how I will.need to replace the clutch regardless at that point I could turn the shaft by hand. Always looking for reasons to buy tools as well! I may need to wait to try this. Once the clutch is off, I am guessing the pulley is part of the assembly? That would take the car out of commission for awhile. If it turns out the compressor is bad as well I would need to have it repaired by a shop which would mean I may have to have the car towed if the pulley has been removed. Heck I don’t know if anyone around here even works on these older vetts any more.
Yes but once the clutch failed, you should check the system for leaks before you plunge any more money and time. If it has a slow leak, this is the time to fix it. If the compressor is seizing or has rough spots, same.
Can the compressor turn freely without issues? If not, you may have to remove the clutch to see if the shaft will turn.
I removed the clutch without to much trouble. It is definitely baked. However, I can turn the compressor with the clutch on but cannot if I am just trying to turn grabbing the shaft bolt with my fingers. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet it turns quite easily but with some resistance. The compressor on my 95 ZR1 turns a bit more easily. I will check the static pressure on the system as well. The clutch and magnet are in bad shape. I will post some pics.
If rubber is coming out, it's the clutch. Have seen that. You can also test the static pressure (70 -95 depending on ambient temp), if there is Freon the compressor is probably OK.
There was a discussion within the last 2 years or so if it was possible to replace the clutch without removing the compressor and the lines. The answer is yes. Someone did do it but I can't find the thread. Some special tools were required like deep snap ring pliers. So if you can find the information on it, that would help greatly.
I checked the static pressure of the system (car not running) and the needle pegged at 100 psi. Not sure how much higher it was than that. When running it should be in the 50 psi range based on what my gauge recommends for 134a. Still waiting on clutch to show up. Thought I would change my brakes and flush the brake fluid while I am waiting.