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So im looking to make / fab an intake system for my 88. Carb. 383 stroker.
Was toying with the idea of making something like the stock system and grabbing air from the front of car similar to stock. I also have a cowl hood, so was thinking of that as well.
I dont have the original airbox anymore to play with. Of course I threw it out a few years ago.
Carb hat and factory style plumbing over to in front of the radiator would probably work nicely. I have seen fueling issues with some of the carb hats pushing some air across the venturi in the carbs. Typically on boosted applications though. I would think you may have an issue with the cowl of hot air from the engine bay trying to push out of it at higher speeds.
Carb hat and factory style plumbing over to in front of the radiator would probably work nicely. I have seen fueling issues with some of the carb hats pushing some air across the venturi in the carbs. Typically on boosted applications though. I would think you may have an issue with the cowl of hot air from the engine bay trying to push out of it at higher speeds.
Thats what i was thinking. I have an assortment of filters i can use that are rated for more cfm than im pulling.
Problem though. I would need an OE filter housing i think to clear between the radiator and hood. This is where i believe the biggest restriction would be? I wish i measured the space before i put my headlights back in as it would have been easy to see how much room is in there.
And its funny, when i got the cowl hood i was hoping id get a little more heat in the engine (old hood had huge hole in it). Engine would run around 185, oil about 210 ish. With new hood, engine was running around 175 180 ish. So the hood is actually venting more air from engine. Good thing i guess.
You could go on ebay and buy one of the surplus NASCAR cowl boxes (about $200) and use the lower half to seal it to the bottom of your cowl scoop.... or use the whole thing and duct it to the rear of your cowl scoop. They are carbon fiber and coated white for heat insulation.... search "Crawford Composite Air Box".
Thats what i was thinking. I have an assortment of filters i can use that are rated for more cfm than im pulling.
Problem though. I would need an OE filter housing i think to clear between the radiator and hood. This is where i believe the biggest restriction would be? I wish i measured the space before i put my headlights back in as it would have been easy to see how much room is in there.
True. I do not think there is much room there... maybe an inch? Could always drop some play dough on the shroud and close the hood to see.
You could go on ebay and buy one of the surplus NASCAR cowl boxes (about $200) and use the lower half to seal it to the bottom of your cowl scoop.... or use the whole thing and duct it to the rear of your cowl scoop. They are carbon fiber and coated white for heat insulation.... search "Crawford Composite Air Box".
So i dont see any great choices here. Its amazing the original air filter location gets air at all TBH..but, think this is the route i have to take..so is the lt1 and l98 air box the same? Id imagine the lt1 is bigger? Either way im trying to figure it out as id have to do a WTB for one...thanks
The early c4 air filter flows good (same filter was used in the c5) but the housing is a big restriction at the neck where it goes over the radiator. The late c4 housing won't fit early cars because they angled the radiator back to make more room over the top. With the stock housing connected to a 4 inch tube the restriction was dropping the MAP down to 92 kPa by 4800 rpm's. No room to go higher over the radiator but you can go wider. I fabricated a sheet metal housing that uses the stock filter. Now the kPa is 97-98 all the way to my rev limiter at 6200 rpm's.
The early c4 air filter flows good (same filter was used in the c5) but the housing is a big restriction at the neck where it goes over the radiator. The late c4 housing won't fit early cars because they angled the radiator back to make more room over the top. With the stock housing connected to a 4 inch tube the restriction was dropping the MAP down to 92 kPa by 4800 rpm's. No room to go higher over the radiator but you can go wider. I fabricated a sheet metal housing that uses the stock filter. Now the kPa is 97-98 all the way to my rev limiter at 6200 rpm's.
That is great information, and i really appreciate it! Was thinking this would be the case. I have a cone shapped filter for a 600hp boat engine i can use that is 4" connector.
To the drawing board! Thanks!
With your fabrication skills I'm sure you can make something that looks much neater. The Data analysis table I posted is with Bosch EV14 35 lb/hr injectors. 12.4-12.5 AFR @82% duty cycle and 97-98 kPa I consider good enough air flow. The intake air temperature stays less than 10 degrees above ambient as long as I'm moving.
With your fabrication skills I'm sure you can make something that looks much neater. The Data analysis table I posted is with Bosch EV14 35 lb/hr injectors. 12.4-12.5 AFR @82% duty cycle and 97-98 kPa I consider good enough air flow. The intake air temperature stays less than 10 degrees above ambient as long as I'm moving.
The early c4 air filter flows good (same filter was used in the c5) but the housing is a big restriction at the neck where it goes over the radiator. The late c4 housing won't fit early cars because they angled the radiator back to make more room over the top. With the stock housing connected to a 4 inch tube the restriction was dropping the MAP down to 92 kPa by 4800 rpm's. No room to go higher over the radiator but you can go wider. I fabricated a sheet metal housing that uses the stock filter. Now the kPa is 97-98 all the way to my rev limiter at 6200 rpm's.
Any chance you can get your set up 3D printed. I'm in need of one now that I have the 383 installed.
Looking for ideas for intake
