1987C4

Ok, I admit ignorance here. Shortly I will be replacing a rear wheel bearing on my 1987 coupe, along with U-joints for the drive and axle shafts. I have a friend with a C3 that insists that I will need a special puller to get the bearing out. Is this correct? If so, where can I get one of these special pullers at?

Also, a big question on service manuals. I see Helms selling a 1987 manual for $75.00. I also see various Vette internet stores selling them for $85.00 and up. Are these the same publication? If so, it looks like a cheaper way to go to just buy it from Helms. Does anyone know which one I need? I am assuming that the Helms ones are the original GM version and that would be the one to get. Any insights appreciated. Thanks!
Brad

CFI-EFI

You're in the wrong section for C3 help. It has been too long for me to remember the details. I haven't messed with C3 rear wheel bearings since the late 60's. But the C3 and C4 have vastly different bearing construction. I doubt a "special" puller is needed, but a puller, indeed. A Helms is a Helms, regardless whose selling it. The one you need is the one for the car you're working on. Despite similarities in cars from year to year, a Helms only covers single model years. It is not so much whether Helms has the original GM version, it whether GM has the original Helms version. Helms PRINTS the GM service manuals for Chevrolet. You can order them, HERE.

RACE ON!!!

vsocks

I just removed my rear wheel bearings, no puller or special tools. A few bolts that are tough, impact wrench helps, but nothing special.
I understand Helms printed the manuals for GM, so they are the ones to buy.

rrubel

Good news and bad news... the good news is that on the C4's, rear bearings (and fronts, too) are sold as part of a bearing/hub assembly. No need to press or grease the bearings. Bad news is that it's now $250 for the part instead of $25...

In your case, you will remove the wheel, the castle nut on the end of the driveshaft, the axle nut, and three bolts (on the INSIDE of the hub) holding the hub assembly to the axle (or suspension? been a while). Note that since one of those three bolts is almost always blocked by part of the drivetrain it's helpful to have both sides of the car off the ground so you can rotate the wheels enough to get access.

I think it took me 2 hours to do my first rear bearing.

Regarding shop manuals, search on eBay. I got the original GM service manual for my 86 for about $30 shipped. Look for the red cover (final edition) ones rather than the white cover (prelim edition) ones.

[RICHR]

AGENT 86

1987C4

Thanks guys! I appreciate the help here. Sounds like a "fun" job. Glad that no special equipment appears to be needed for this task. I think the bolts in question are "torx" type heads? Any guidance on what brand of torx bit to use for this? I am wondering if I need a Snap-On or other high end brand to take the torque needed to break them loose?

Brad

rrubel

I just use Craftsman. They've got a nice set of three (40-45-50) torx sockets for a 3/8" drive wrench at a decent price, plus they'll replace them if one breaks.
[RICHR]

chucks88

Those aren't gonna help.........you'll need a T-55

ittlfly

Yep...and get a good one like Snap-On as those 3 torx bolts will be on tight. Ask me how I know.

CFI-EFI

I certainly messed up on THAT one. I obviously didn't read the opening question, very well.

RACE ON!!!

rrubel

Ok, ok. Maybe the set is 45-50-55. I used one for the seatbelt bolt and one for the bearings and the third is still unused. Neither broke yet, and the seatbelt was tighter than the hub bolts...
[RICHR]

1987C4

Thanks guys! While I'm there, I will likely want to replace the axle shaft u-joints. How hard is it to pull the shaft on that side of the differential while I'm in there? Thanks!

Brad

PS- The project grows, at least in my imagination... anyone pulled the driveshaft? I might as well do the driveshaft j-joints too. Is it really necessary to drop the exhuast system to get it out? Thanks again... I think I'm done with dumb questions!

CFI-EFI

It is the same as at the spindle. Four bolts retaining 2 straps. You CAN change the rear wheel bearings without undoing either end of the half shaft. It depends, somewhat on your car. If the exhaust is all stock, then probably, yes.

RACE ON!!!

Great White North

get a manual so you can prepare yourself to remove the exhaust ,introduce yourself to the c-beam etc.not rocket science but
definetly a learning curve.

1987C4

Thanks guys. I appreciate the info. I'm off shopping the internet for a full Helms shop manual. Perhaps I won't ask so many questions after I get it? Again, thanks for your patience and generosity with your insights.
Brad