rear bearing ... puller needed?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: 1987- L98, auto OH
rear bearing ... puller needed?
Ok, I admit ignorance here. Shortly I will be replacing a rear wheel bearing on my 1987 coupe, along with U-joints for the drive and axle shafts. I have a friend with a C3 that insists that I will need a special puller to get the bearing out. Is this correct? If so, where can I get one of these special pullers at?
Also, a big question on service manuals. I see Helms selling a 1987 manual for $75.00. I also see various Vette internet stores selling them for $85.00 and up. Are these the same publication? If so, it looks like a cheaper way to go to just buy it from Helms. Does anyone know which one I need? I am assuming that the Helms ones are the original GM version and that would be the one to get. Any insights appreciated. Thanks!
Brad
Also, a big question on service manuals. I see Helms selling a 1987 manual for $75.00. I also see various Vette internet stores selling them for $85.00 and up. Are these the same publication? If so, it looks like a cheaper way to go to just buy it from Helms. Does anyone know which one I need? I am assuming that the Helms ones are the original GM version and that would be the one to get. Any insights appreciated. Thanks!
Brad
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by 1987C4
I have a friend with a C3 that insists that I will need a special puller to get the bearing out. Is this correct? If so, where can I get one of these special pullers at?
Originally Posted by 1987C4
Are these the same publication? If so, it looks like a cheaper way to go to just buy it from Helms. Does anyone know which one I need? I am assuming that the Helms ones are the original GM version and that would be the one to get.
RACE ON!!!
Last edited by CFI-EFI; Oct 8, 2004 at 10:04 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 261
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From: Belgium WI
I just removed my rear wheel bearings, no puller or special tools. A few bolts that are tough, impact wrench helps, but nothing special.
I understand Helms printed the manuals for GM, so they are the ones to buy.
I understand Helms printed the manuals for GM, so they are the ones to buy.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
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From: Glen Burnie MD
Originally Posted by 1987C4
Ok, I admit ignorance here. Shortly I will be replacing a rear wheel bearing on my 1987 coupe, along with U-joints for the drive and axle shafts. I have a friend with a C3 that insists that I will need a special puller to get the bearing out. Is this correct? If so, where can I get one of these special pullers at?
In your case, you will remove the wheel, the castle nut on the end of the driveshaft, the axle nut, and three bolts (on the INSIDE of the hub) holding the hub assembly to the axle (or suspension? been a while). Note that since one of those three bolts is almost always blocked by part of the drivetrain it's helpful to have both sides of the car off the ground so you can rotate the wheels enough to get access.
I think it took me 2 hours to do my first rear bearing.
Regarding shop manuals, search on eBay. I got the original GM service manual for my 86 for about $30 shipped. Look for the red cover (final edition) ones rather than the white cover (prelim edition) ones.
[RICHR]
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Originally Posted by 1987C4
Ok, I admit ignorance here. Shortly I will be replacing a rear wheel bearing on my 1987 coupe, along with U-joints for the drive and axle shafts.
Ok, I admit ignorance here. Shortly I will be replacing a rear wheel bearing on my 1987 coupe, along with U-joints for the drive and axle shafts.
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You're in the wrong section for C3 help. It has been too long for me to remember the details. I haven't messed with C3 rear wheel bearings since the late 60's. RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: 1987- L98, auto OH
Thanks guys! I appreciate the help here. Sounds like a "fun" job. Glad that no special equipment appears to be needed for this task. I think the bolts in question are "torx" type heads? Any guidance on what brand of torx bit to use for this? I am wondering if I need a Snap-On or other high end brand to take the torque needed to break them loose?
Brad
Brad
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
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From: Glen Burnie MD
Originally Posted by 1987C4
Thanks guys! I appreciate the help here. Sounds like a "fun" job. Glad that no special equipment appears to be needed for this task. I think the bolts in question are "torx" type heads? Any guidance on what brand of torx bit to use for this? I am wondering if I need a Snap-On or other high end brand to take the torque needed to break them loose?
[RICHR]
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,763
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From: Connectivette
Originally Posted by rrubel
I just use Craftsman. They've got a nice set of three (40-45-50) torx sockets for a 3/8" drive wrench at a decent price, plus they'll replace them if one breaks.
[RICHR]
[RICHR]
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by 1987C4
Ok, I admit ignorance here. Shortly I will be replacing a rear wheel bearing on my 1987 coupe, along with U-joints for the drive and axle shafts.
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You're in the wrong section for C3 help. It has been too long for me to remember the details. I haven't messed with C3 rear wheel bearings since the late 60's. RACE ON!!!
Originally Posted by AGENT 86
RACE ON!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
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From: Glen Burnie MD
Originally Posted by chucks88
Those aren't gonna help.........you'll need a T-55
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Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: 1987- L98, auto OH
Thanks guys! While I'm there, I will likely want to replace the axle shaft u-joints. How hard is it to pull the shaft on that side of the differential while I'm in there? Thanks!
Brad
PS- The project grows, at least in my imagination... anyone pulled the driveshaft? I might as well do the driveshaft j-joints too. Is it really necessary to drop the exhuast system to get it out? Thanks again... I think I'm done with dumb questions!
Brad
PS- The project grows, at least in my imagination... anyone pulled the driveshaft? I might as well do the driveshaft j-joints too. Is it really necessary to drop the exhuast system to get it out? Thanks again... I think I'm done with dumb questions!
Last edited by 1987C4; Oct 11, 2004 at 11:00 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by 1987C4
Thanks guys! While I'm there, I will likely want to replace the axle shaft u-joints. How hard is it to pull the shaft on that side of the differential while I'm in there? Thanks!
Originally Posted by 1987C4
The project grows, at least in my imagination... anyone pulled the driveshaft? I might as well do the driveshaft j-joints too. Is it really necessary to drop the exhuast system to get it out?
RACE ON!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 806
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From: Langley B.C.
Originally Posted by 1987C4
Thanks guys! While I'm there, I will likely want to replace the axle shaft u-joints. How hard is it to pull the shaft on that side of the differential while I'm in there? Thanks!
Brad
PS- The project grows, at least in my imagination... anyone pulled the driveshaft? I might as well do the driveshaft j-joints too. Is it really necessary to drop the exhuast system to get it out? Thanks again... I think I'm done with dumb questions!
Brad
PS- The project grows, at least in my imagination... anyone pulled the driveshaft? I might as well do the driveshaft j-joints too. Is it really necessary to drop the exhuast system to get it out? Thanks again... I think I'm done with dumb questions!
definetly a learning curve.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 234
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From: 1987- L98, auto OH
Thanks guys. I appreciate the info. I'm off shopping the internet for a full Helms shop manual. Perhaps I won't ask so many questions after I get it? Again, thanks for your patience and generosity with your insights.
Brad
Brad
