Bro-I thought Andy said when you were running hot he made then "newer" intercooler which spaced out the intercooler from the condenser and all was good?

 

Well thats what I thought happened. When I pulled the top cover off, I found a couple self tapping sheet metal screws and a couple metal straps that were screwed into the front frame portion.

 

Jeff,
This justs add support to what I am saying. The FMIC will only work with extensive modifications to keep the cooling system working. (new radiator, screens all over the place with custom ducting or shields to redirect airflow) Not worth it to me.

OK, here is where I really get slammed. If the “newer” setup does work, great. But it seems to me that all this great R&D everyone is talking about, has been done on our cars. How many of you out there are running the “old” setup and having cooling problems and now are just drooling to buy the new modification to make your system work like it should have in the first place. I just understand it.

OK, flame away!!!

Clayton from Las Vegas

 

3,219 views of this topic so far probably says something

 

I personally dont think you'll get flamed.
What I dont understand is WHY should people have to spend 1,000's of dollars on a kit just to have to spend a few more thousand dollars in order to make it work..
"IF" the ATI kit is able to produce power with little heating issues, I think it is the best bet for our climate.

If I was in a climate that was 20*'s cooler, I would be all over the ECS kit like white on rice. Its the BEST kit for the money out of ANY F/I system avail for the corvette.

 

I have a very large FMIC on my car, which I put on after we found that the ATI twins (3.5s) were woefully inadequate at 14lbs of boost and 600rwhp. The car dropped nearly 100rwhp between 4 pulls.

In good temps, the FMIC completely alleviated this problem. Temps were within 15 degrees of ambient consistently.

But the recent 120 degree days in the valley have put the magnifying glass on my cooling system. Run the AC too long, its going to go boom. Drive it hard too long, its going to go boom.

Im in process of addressing this issue, and I will make sure to document the results. I think they will be of great use to everyone.

 

Clayton i would talk to alot of people before thinking that the new ATI kit will solve this issue. It may solve the cooling issue but then may have to deal with very hi IAT temps. The ATI twins only get airflow through the front brake ducts-it just seems a liittle small to effeciently cool the intake charge of the blower. Then again I could be completely wrong. We've talked about moving the condenser further away from the rad. When I was on Griffin's website ordering a rad for my car I came across this:

6) How much space should there be between the A/C condenser and the radiator?
There should be 1/4" – 3/8" (no more than 1/2") between the A/C condenser and the radiator. If there is too much space the air will go around the condenser. The condenser cannot go on the backside of radiator. Temperature of the air leaving the radiator is too high for a condenser to reject the heat required for proper A/C operation.

So moving the condenser further away from the rad may not be a good idea. There has to be more than just the intercooler in the way to this whole situation. Doesn't the STS and TTix setup put the intercooler in the same location. But The ustilize the factory shroud-I think the shroud and the use of it has to be a major part of the equation. If you look at Andy's kit the plastic shroud just covers the "open top section". I think something that seals it completely and tries to draw air from infront of the rad cavity has to be a better solution. My shroud up to the condesnser has about a 1" gap-so here the air comes up therough the nose and spills out to the engine compartment.

 

http://www.procharger.com/c6_c5_intercoolers.shtml

 

Had my car out yesterday 96 degrees and high humidity with the A&A FMIC, stock radiator and made a couple high speed WOT pulls with the AC on and I had no issues. I did modify the sides to trap air into the rad and intercooler. During my pulls the water temp reached 199 max oil was max at 205 and then water temp cooled back to 182 after driving for a while. I also have the space between the intercooler and condenser. One other thing I did with my setup was used the factory cable and spring setup and formed the front air dam in more of an L shape so that it is contacting the bottom of the stock radiator rather than the condenser as indicated by Andy's directions. I think this seems to help give cleaner air to the radiator rather than going thru the condenser first. I also did'nt like the idea of mounting the air dam with bolts since my car is slammed and if I hit some thing hard in front it could take out the brace. With the cables and springs there it has allot more forgiveness upwards and backwards if something hits the air dam.
I don't know what my modifications have made to cooling and my HP #'s are not as high as some of you guys but I can not complain about the cooling aspect of this set up.
I guess I have been lucky with this.

 

Please post some pics bro!

 

Stock LS6 motor ECS Ati complete D1SC set up with temps between 178 and 199 depending how hot it is and essentially no overheating problems after driving with kit for 11 months now and 5000+ miles! Also running methanol when she see 4 lbs of more and at full boost 10 or so i am making 600rwhp and mostly shifting around 7 to 8 lbs of boost when playing around!!

 

Back from some real hard boosted runs in 95-101 temps today and put in 200 hard miles. Mostly watched the oil temps highest was 226 and this was when I was running my car above 4k for approx 20 minutes, keep it at this level so exiting the turns I was completely in the sweet spot of boost buildup so I could hit lots of triple digits and only time under 4k was to slow down entering turns and down shifting to the lower gear for max boost fun in our Hill Country When we got to our 2 pm lunch in a little German city north of San Antonio I saw 212 water in stop and go oil 222. I know I put in 20+ pulls today from 40ish to 100+ and no heating issues. On the way home I cruised until the out skirts of San Antonio doing 90-100 and the temps were 194 and oil 207 and when I slowed down to 70-80 temps decreased to 183 and 199 and of course I had the AC on the majority of the time as 95+ is hot here with the humidty. In our area a properly setup single FMIC is functional without a doubt as I know of the others that have a setup like mine or the ECS single I have abused mine for than they have combined and that is what I built my boost monster for was to see lots of boost regardless of the time of year not to sit in my garage collecting cob webs

 

Almost exactly the same numbers here with the ECS Paxton, single front mount cooler.
Cruised the "Annual Telegraph Road Cruise", stop and go, outside temp 97 according to car and bank thermometers.
Air on, coolant 212, oil 219.
Back on the freeway, coolant 187, oil 202.
This is with nothing that wasn't supplied in the kit, except "water wetter" and fan reprogramming.

 

Now don't be a smart A$$ some of use have to deal with SNOW

 

Why I moved from Nebraska I hated winter and that was before I was into a Vette, I hated the 0- and snow, ice etc

 

Arun, per your request I took a few pictures showing the spacing my mechanic custom did, it is hard to see how he cut the support frame and made his custom bracket to move the intercooler away from the condensor, I undid the plastic cover for you

From afar shot

Looking down the right front

Drivers side to see the spacing better

Looking down the drivers side

Some bottom shots, drivers side

And one bottom one passanger side


Not as thoughtful to take pictures while my car was put together like EG does, however next time I change the oil I will get some good pictures from the bottom close up and my mechanic has told me he has made a template of this, mine was the first he did this to, the other one he retro fitted Mikes99Corvette as he was having over heating issues and his is now setup like mine other than an A4, he sees about 5 degrees hotter water temp and about the same oil temps as I do. But he does not go out in the Hill Country like I do and do sustained abuse like I do

 

Scotty, LAPD ordered my intercooler...if you call them they can probably get you the same one. This is the ultimate setup for low IATs and coolant temps. If you want maximun cooling add an external oil cooler.

 

All I see hear is posts concerning radiator coolant temps. So one more time...its high IATs that detonate motors...not high coolant temps. The real point of concern is that with the intercooler in the radiator cavity... intercooler air flow is greatly restricted compared to a direct flow through system. Respacing the radiator and intercooler may help coolant temps a little, but moving the intercooler forward reduces the volume in front of it and decreases air flow through it. This will increase your IATS! You loose 1% power for every 10 degrees the IATs rise. On hot days you could be loosing 5-10% of your motors potential power..... not to mention the possibility of detonation and damage. Check your IATs! It only takes one boosted run when IATs spike to destroy your motor. Controlling coolant temps will not prevent detonation or damage.

 

I agree about the IATs and my simple fix was to install the ECS Meth kit and I have not had a knock in my 4300 miles and today with the heat between 95-101 during a Hill Country run where I know I was turning my motor at 4k for almost 15-20 minutes, the only time below was slowing for turns, and I was into boost as much as possible during this time, atleast 20 times into 10+ of boost. I believe your point on IATs for those without meth one time detonation and boom it could be, this is why I installed the meth setup in Texas it is just to damn hot here. All the other mods were to keep my cooling temps and oil temps lower than when my car was stock and I have accomplished that as I believe from your posts that your new custom setup has done the same. Most of the people on here are worried about coolant and oil temps and they need to also listen to what you are saying about IATs, I understand that. I do not know what they are as I do not monitor, but I believe I have no issues with running 100% meth

 

Your probably (depending how your car is tuned) very safe running 100% meth..... FJO makes a very nice IAT guage.... its on sale right at 50% off.... about $70 and $20 for the fast response sensor. You can monitor your IATs all the time.