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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 12:08 PM
  #81  
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Clayton, use to have Potenza poles S02's, only lasted 15K, now trying Mich pilot sports. With 530 RWHP (dyno), no tire will last very long with a heavy right foot. Its just toooooo fun.
Cheers, Robi
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 11:24 PM
  #82  
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put in fresh DEXCOOL...seemed to help...only up to 221 today...mid 90's and of course humid as hell
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 03:13 AM
  #83  
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Jumping aboard here guys..... I just had a D1 procharger kit installed with andy's single intercooler setup and even with two bottles of water wetter sat my car actually overheated when i got home. Water and steam were spewing out of the overflow tank in front of the battery. The temps went to nearly 250 with A/c on and just granny driving from the shop to my house. It has never gotten that hot before and the A/c wouldn't blow cool while sitting at stop lights in traffic. The night before I drove the car for a while and temps stayed below or around 220. Is it time for a dewitts radiator????

J
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 09:11 AM
  #84  
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I've only had my twin intercooled procharger setup in for a week. I've had a few days off work and have been testing it out in 90-103 degrees weather all week and my temps wont go over mid 190's (knock on wood).

I think those single front intercoolers are the problem, or maybe the removal of the radiatior shroud.
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 09:28 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by 1bigdaddy
Jumping aboard here guys..... I just had a D1 procharger kit installed with andy's single intercooler setup and even with two bottles of water wetter sat my car actually overheated when i got home. Water and steam were spewing out of the overflow tank in front of the battery. The temps went to nearly 250 with A/c on and just granny driving from the shop to my house. It has never gotten that hot before and the A/c wouldn't blow cool while sitting at stop lights in traffic. The night before I drove the car for a while and temps stayed below or around 220. Is it time for a dewitts radiator????

J
I had my car out yesterday and the outside temps were 100+ in San Antonio and I did some traffice driving with the AC on and I was at 207 coolant/220 oil so that was ok with me and when I was out doing some boosted runs earlier coolant was 194 and oil 212 and that was after 3 back to back pulls. I would get a Dewitt without a doubt, I like mine and I have also opened up the front of my car with Z06 screens and the screen in the center, I know these do not help while at a stop light and that is where the DeWitt will help
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 09:44 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by 1bigdaddy
Jumping aboard here guys..... I just had a D1 procharger kit installed with andy's single intercooler setup and even with two bottles of water wetter sat my car actually overheated when i got home. Water and steam were spewing out of the overflow tank in front of the battery. The temps went to nearly 250 with A/c on and just granny driving from the shop to my house. It has never gotten that hot before and the A/c wouldn't blow cool while sitting at stop lights in traffic. The night before I drove the car for a while and temps stayed below or around 220. Is it time for a dewitts radiator????

J
A big radiator would not help... problem here is air flow to the radiator.

VR
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 10:57 AM
  #87  
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I know everyone says to get the Dewitts but I'm not sold on it just yet. I think the better solution would be to get the twin intercooler setup from ATI or maybe try Andy's new setup. It looks like Andy's new setup helps direct alot more airflow into the rad. Straightening the rad will of course push more air through it versus having it lying down. I wonder what it would cost to have custom rad made to fit the stock location but be a 2 core and lower in height to clear the inlet tubes of the blower-a new condencer would need to be fabbed also.
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 02:22 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Villain C5
I've only had my twin intercooled procharger setup in for a week. I've had a few days off work and have been testing it out in 90-103 degrees weather all week and my temps wont go over mid 190's (knock on wood).

I think those single front intercoolers are the problem, or maybe the removal of the radiatior shroud.
That is the best solution...replace the FMIC with ATI twins.....free up the radiator cavity to do what its supposed to do..... cool the radiator. I had the big Ron Davis...with the intercooler in the radiator cavity, it made very little difference on hot days. The intercooler in the radiator cavity will never cool as efficiently as twins that have direct flow through of ambient air. Respacing the intercooler and radiator still leaves all the heat extraction in one small cavity... the intercooler subtracts potential air volume the radiator needs for cooling.

Last edited by HIGHRPM; Jul 24, 2006 at 04:19 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 11:51 PM
  #89  
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I wonder if a forum sponser can get an upgrade to the new ATI hi flow twins and the plumbing-with enough people this could be a worthy upgrade. I'm on the fence about the Dewitts but I really don't think it will cure the problem.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 08:34 AM
  #90  
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STS TT, then no over heating problems.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:54 PM
  #91  
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I have a maggie. With the A/C on, which I usually never do, cruising on the highway in over 90F will give me 200* coolant, 225* oil. Now these numbers are well within the confines of GMs parameters...just ask the stock-tuned guys what temps they see before fans come on...
Either way, I'd like to keep the temps down a little more, as the maggie heat-soaks something wicked in hot temps.

I think the benefit of using a Dewits or other aftermarket rad is the "oil-cooler". The oil really keeps some heat in the motor, even if air-flow is sufficient. Dropping the oil-temps would certainly help keep the rest of the motor cooler...it's just another way to rid heat from the system. You centri-guys may need to address the airflow, though.

Running a lower percentage of anti-freeze and WaterWetter should also help shed heat more efficiently.

One thing I did recently was to pull the rubber trim from the back of the hood. It has definately helped with the heat, faster cool-off after the spirited runs!!!

Be good,
ace
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 12:05 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by ace996
I have a maggie. With the A/C on, which I usually never do, cruising on the highway in over 90F will give me 200* coolant, 225* oil. Now these numbers are well within the confines of GMs parameters...just ask the stock-tuned guys what temps they see before fans come on...
Either way, I'd like to keep the temps down a little more, as the maggie heat-soaks something wicked in hot temps.

I think the benefit of using a Dewits or other aftermarket rad is the "oil-cooler". The oil really keeps some heat in the motor, even if air-flow is sufficient. Dropping the oil-temps would certainly help keep the rest of the motor cooler...it's just another way to rid heat from the system. You centri-guys may need to address the airflow, though.

Running a lower percentage of anti-freeze and WaterWetter should also help shed heat more efficiently.

One thing I did recently was to pull the rubber trim from the back of the hood. It has definately helped with the heat, faster cool-off after the spirited runs!!!

Be good,
ace
Makes sense, but I have heard that separate oil coolers (not through the radiator) works much better. I’m not so sure about removing the rubber strip at the base of the windshield is a good idea. I did a not too scientific test a few weeks ago using thin strips of paper towel taped the end of the hood and as soon as I gained any speed over 20 mph, the strips were being sucked in. I would think that it would help cooling while at a standstill, so does openning the hood, but not while moving.

Thanks,

Clayton from Las Vegas
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 12:11 AM
  #93  
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Easy solution....................sell you car!
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jersey jay
Easy solution....................sell you car!
Who are you addressing that to?

Thanks,

Clayton from Las Vegas
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 10:08 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by eb02z06
I wonder if a forum sponser can get an upgrade to the new ATI hi flow twins and the plumbing-with enough people this could be a worthy upgrade. I'm on the fence about the Dewitts but I really don't think it will cure the problem.
With a centri blower (A&A) I did the Dewitts as well as the upgraded Spal fans and even changed to a heat extractor hood...nothing solved the issue (with A/C on). This past weekend I installed an Evans water pump which seems to have made a 10-20* difference but is still short of being the final solution (with the A/C on and over 90*).

Previously to the water pump R&R I had oil temps mostly even and/or occasionally just above the water temps (with the A/C on). Now my oil temps are consistantly 15* above water temps. Next is to add an oil cooler (and continue with air flow management improvements) which should also help water temps.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 03:04 PM
  #96  
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This is interesting-why would a Maggie have cooling issues-nothing in the front radiater cavity has changed? I remember way back when I had a 91 Mustang. It was a GT and when i put a Vortech on it it had problems keeping cool in the heat. Well that car eventually became a race car so I bought a 89 LX for the street. Did the same mods but this car had no AC and a grill opening that the GT's don't. It never got hot?
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 03:06 PM
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I wonder if we just spaced the condenser further out from the rad-like say maybe another 1 inch or 2. Didn't Peter Pan say his mechanic rigged up something to space out the condenser on his combo-he's not having any overheating issues in Texas heat?
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by eb02z06
I wonder if we just spaced the condenser further out from the rad-like say maybe another 1 inch or 2. Didn't Peter Pan say his mechanic rigged up something to space out the condenser on his combo-he's not having any overheating issues in Texas heat?
Your missing the fundamental problem...there is a fixed volume of air in front of the radiator. If you put the intercooler in that volume you reduce that volume and the total air flow to the intercooler/condenser/radiator...respacing might help one element at the expense of another.

Don't confuse coolant temps with IATs....its high IATs that detonate motors. You can be safe 99+% of the time...its the one time when on a very hot day...slow town driving......heat soaked intercooler....= KABOOM. Severe detonation only has to happen once....and the motor is destroyed.

Keeping the intercooler in the radiator cavity is not the answer...go with the ATI high flow twins and let the radiator cavity cool the radiator. Adding an external oil cooler will take care of high oil temps.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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Has anyone try getting their rad/engine flushed????How about cleaning the intercooler and rad with a high pressure washer...sure works for a portable house A/C unit...gets all the crap out.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by eb02z06
This is interesting-why would a Maggie have cooling issues-nothing in the front radiater cavity has changed? I remember way back when I had a 91 Mustang. It was a GT and when i put a Vortech on it it had problems keeping cool in the heat. Well that car eventually became a race car so I bought a 89 LX for the street. Did the same mods but this car had no AC and a grill opening that the GT's don't. It never got hot?
The maggie's intercooler is mounted just above the lower/spring-loaded splitter. Air must go in through the intercooler(interheater is more like it) and then enter the radiator shroud cavity.
I have a track-day with PDA at Pocono on 8/18(Friday is the day) and I assume that I will have some issues with heat. We'll see.
-ace
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