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Decided to go with a FAST 102 intake instead of the LS2 on my LS1 motor. They want to use the LS7 throttle body. Why not use the FAST 102 throttle body?
Well I just sent the money off today for Jon's HSW kit he was selling. So looks like I will be having this done sometime this winter.
Originally Posted by Superman09
I have a Harris Speed Works 90mm plate kit! It was originally a Dry kit and I purchased the dry-wet conversion for it so you can run it as either... wet or dry! System is complete! Comes with the complete plate system as well as MANY extras. What you get is:
HSW 90mm dry/wet plate kit, 10# bottle
HSW The Interface
HSW Microedge with Plus Progressive unit
HSW Billet Adjustable Bottle Bracket
HSW Dual outlet purge kit (NEW) w/ Install kit
Autometer Electronic Nitrous Pressure Gauge already wired in
Here are my soon to be acquisitions for my 347 TT build.
AFR custom heads - $4200
- Cometic boost head gaskets for heads - $160
- Yella Terra ultralight shaft rockers - $425
- Valve cover spacers/gaskets to clear rockers - $35
- FAST 102 Intake - $795
- Custom portwork for FAST intake by AFR (port match intake/exhaust & tunnel) - $375
- New LS7 throttlebody for FAST intake (port matched to intake) - AFR to complete - $525
- Custom Hardedned Pushrods - $100
- FAST fuel rails, mounting kit & fuel connections for LS1 install - $235
- MAP sensor relocate harness for new intake - $40
- Conversion harness to mount LS7 throttlebody on LS1 car - $60
- Gaskets for new FAST intake - $35
- Coolant block-off kit to mount aftermarket intake on LS1 car - $60
I will have a set of LPE prepped 243 heads which have minimal dyno time on them since rebuild recently for sale for $1000 if anyone is interested. These made 685 HP at 4800 rpm on 93 octane at 17lbs and made 635 on 13lbs at 6600 rpm. They have Manley severe duty SS valves and Comp Cam 921 springs with opening pressure of 130. Stock rockers. They have been moderately massaged and never milled.
Last edited by jobberone; Nov 30, 2010 at 12:08 AM.
Basically you set shift points in it that coincide to boost levels. It mostly reads the clutch vs rpm to determine what next level it will go to. At least thats how I understand it. It can also be done with WOT switches setup around the shifter. With each gear it hits a switch and adjusts boost.
Basically you set shift points in it that coincide to boost levels. It mostly reads the clutch vs rpm to determine what next level it will go to. At least thats how I understand it. It can also be done with WOT switches setup around the shifter. With each gear it hits a switch and adjusts boost.
Im really more interested in a boost by MPH than using the switches around the shifter. Im worrying about those breaking with drivetrain movement. I know the eboost2 can do it, but I just need time to figure out how.
then you would be setting up a time delay. I have not looked into doing it that way however I saw that it can.
This is what I am referring to, however, I haven't heard or seen anyone actually do it other than Louis.
Originally Posted by Louis @ LG Motorsports
I have a new solution for the guys wanting boost by gear. MUCH simpler to install, more of a MPH related system, however, still switches within a given MPH window for the EBoost 2.
Oh, its a 1/3 the price, and takes 1/2 as much time to install
The problem with the plate on the torque tube, is that it will fail. There is no room in there for the switch plate, so one instance of axle hop, and it will break a switch. It might not do it the first few times, but they will fail. There is simply not enough room.
My new system is mph based, switching the grounds for the Eboost, within each gear window. Pretty neat.
The other issue that I ran into with the actual gear based system- Say you set the car into spin- Naturally, a good wheel man would short shift to the next gear. However, with the old setup, it would toss you into the next higher boost window, causing more spin.
1 Sending my stll in the box V1-Strim into Vortech to be upgraded to the SI-trim
2 Getting my gages and pod ready for install
3 Getting my Cam/Valvetrain parts ready to go in.
4 Possibly a clutch! (gonna need one)
5 mabe some 3.73's
1 Sending my stll in the box V1-Strim into Vortech to be upgraded to the SI-trim
2 Getting my gages and pod ready for install
3 Getting my Cam/Valvetrain parts ready to go in.
4 Possibly a clutch! (gonna need one)
5 mabe some 3.73's
If you don't mind a recommendation, try the car without changing the gears first if you have 3.42's. A car that makes good power doesn't need gears unless this is going to be a purpose built car and you're trying to be banging the rev-limiter through the traps or something. JMHO.
If you don't mind a recommendation, try the car without changing the gears first if you have 3.42's. A car that makes good power doesn't need gears unless this is going to be a purpose built car and you're trying to be banging the rev-limiter through the traps or something. JMHO.
Yeah Bret the gears were last don't really need them,but figured after all the others why not gear it.
But later this spring
1 harded outputs
2 ecs trans brace
Yeah Bret the gears were last don't really need them,but figured after all the others why not gear it.
But later this spring
1 harded outputs
2 ecs trans brace
Do the shafts and brace when you do a clutch. You'll kick yourself in the *** if you don't. It will take less than an hour to complete both with the trans/rear out of the car.