Auto Swap Thread
Lots of guys running A4's in the C6's go that route.
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Lots of guys running A4's in the C6's go that route.

I was going to do my Z06 this way but decided I would just sell it and wait for the C7's.
I've done a few of these conversions. The C6 Z06 differential is just so much better than the C5's and the costs off sets would more than make up for the $$$ it takes to beef up a c5 differential.
I hope it holds up for you. The C6 Z06 differential is better mounted (two mounts) that stops all of the pivoting (side to side) movement that leads to cracked cases.
There's not much to post up. It's a fairly straight forward swap.
Drop the drive train out.
Pull out the pilot bearing
Install Flex Plate
Swap Tranny harness out.
Install the new stuff.
I see you have a scattershield, you might need to clearance some of it to clear your exhaust.
Also do no not torque down the spline shaft until you let it warm up and adjust. Just tighten to hand tight.
Other than that you'll need to run some cooling lines and add a trans-cooler.
Never did an external controller so that should be different.
Swapping pedals isn't that bad. Takes about hour. Just pull out the drivers seat and flip youself in the car on your back with feet hanging in the back.
Most time consuming part is adding wires and moving pins on PCM connectors.
Also you need to weld in bracket in the trans tunnel for shifter cable.
At the track- make sure your rear tires are on the damp edge of the water box for your burn out. Anything beyond that area is hard on parts. Also adjust your rear view mirrors so you can see if both tires are spinning, bad for clutch packs otherwise.
You should also get the ECS axle loops, cheap insurance if you break an axle.(also NHRA rule)

Here's a similar thread if you haven't seen it: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...onversion.html
I ran -6 braided lines to a big front mounted cooler. We tried an electric fan cooler in the back, but it wasn't enough to keep temps under 200.

At the track- make sure your rear tires are on the damp edge of the water box for your burn out. Anything beyond that area is hard on parts. Also adjust your rear view mirrors so you can see if both tires are spinning, bad for clutch packs otherwise.
You should also get the ECS axle loops, cheap insurance if you break an axle.(also NHRA rule)
Can a A/C console be used as a big transcooler ?
great threat BTW.
thanks
Baezi
I would not recommend using A/C Condensor for cooling, they make aftermarket radiators that you could use, like Dewitts.
just the A/C Condensor sound so good if it could be used.
It´s very big and fitts right back on , no problem at all
thanks
and again sorry for stealing the threat
Baezi

He's about to find out that that's the only place the car will be effective.......except there ARE a few hondas that haven't been crushed yet.
Loser gets the Pink jack stands.
There's not much to post up. It's a fairly straight forward swap.
Drop the drive train out.
Pull out the pilot bearing
Install Flex Plate
Swap Tranny harness out.
Install the new stuff.
I see you have a scattershield, you might need to clearance some of it to clear your exhaust.
Also do no not torque down the spline shaft until you let it warm up and adjust. Just tighten to hand tight.
Other than that you'll need to run some cooling lines and add a trans-cooler.
Never did an external controller so that should be different.
Swapping pedals isn't that bad. Takes about hour. Just pull out the drivers seat and flip youself in the car on your back with feet hanging in the back.
Most time consuming part is adding wires and moving pins on PCM connectors.
Also you need to weld in bracket in the trans tunnel for shifter cable.

I got alot of parts from this guy he knows what he is talking about here. Plus if I can do the swap with only help setting the cradle up to bolt it and the trans in any one can do it for sure. But again mine was a A4 to start with no wiring to swap out are chg.. I dont see Bret doing the chg out just a hard core race guy for sure.
























