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I got one but sold it ever one in the market will tell you the A4 cars really dont need one in the car. As long as you get out of the right foot in car gets into wheel hop bad. The stick cars is where ever one needs all the help dropping are slipping the left foot at high RPM.
He's about to find out that that's the only place the car will be effective.......except there ARE a few hondas that haven't been crushed yet. Loser gets the Pink jack stands.
if i lose my excuse is you tuned it
Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
True but not everyone has a transbrake on their A4. I want a brace to keep everything lined up when I blast off.
Ok the shifter linkage looks right, (i dunno if its supposed to come apart like that) but I dont see a Neutral Safety Switch. Looks like you can get them a Autozone etc.
Ok the shifter linkage looks right, (i dunno if its supposed to come apart like that) but I dont see a Neutral Safety Switch. Looks like you can get them a Autozone etc.
Ya looks like im missing all the little stuff like that, anything else yall can think of post it up.
ajg1915- i might need your shifter and linkage, as mine looks broken
I have this setup right here, anyone know what to tq the bolts to that hold the shaft.
just loose at first until you get the car good and warmed up! then just hand tight with locktite it needs room to move this is what ECS said could have made my thrust on my crank go out! But (East Texas Muscle cars) had a pilot bushing in my crankshaft! and the fact that they never balanced the eagle crankshaft! took it out!
I think GM says after running the car you should loosen and re tighten it.
they say when you loosen it you will hear a pop! like it was under pressure
just loose at first until you get the car good and warmed up! then just hand tight with locktite it needs room to move this is what ECS said could have made my thrust on my crank go out! But (East Texas Muscle cars) had a pilot bushing in my crankshaft! and the fact that they never balanced the eagle crankshaft! took it out!
I think GM says after running the car you should loosen and re tighten it.
they say when you loosen it you will hear a pop! like it was under pressure
unless im not thinking, how am i gonna tightin them once everything is put together.
what about the 6 nuts that hold the hub clamp what do they go to?
Thanks guys havent messed with an auto drivetrain before.
So I asked RPM once... Q: What's the "torque spec for the bolts on the cone to the SFI flexplate?" A: Tight.
Being nit picky I had to use a spec. When I got near 50ft-lbs, the aluminum started distorting from the flat head bolts so I settled around 40ft-lb.
Also, I followed spec once for that hub clamp bolt and cranked it 96 ft-lb. The next time removing the torque tube, that input shaft would NOT come out. Now I go easy with max 37 ft-lb on the hub clamp. No need to smash it.
so lets get this straight
the 6 bolts that hold the cone i get them tight (can i get them tight before i put it on the car or do i have to do those too after the car is ran)
then the clamp, i tightin once the car has ran a bit. to 37-96 lb.
so lets get this straight
the 6 bolts that hold the cone i get them tight (can i get them tight before i put it on the car or do i have to do those too after the car is ran)
then the clamp, i tightin once the car has ran a bit. to 37-96 lb.
Torque Specs:
Spline Lock Assembly to Flex Plate (50 ft lbs) 1st - 25, 2nd (50)
Flex Plate to Crank Shaft (74 ft lbs), 1st -15, 2nd 35, 3rd 74
Spline Lock to input shaft (96 Ft lbs)
You should do the spline lock and flex plate in multiple stages using a star pattern just like you do when you install a tire.