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Old 01-09-2012, 01:29 PM
  #41  
robert miller
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Originally Posted by a/c man View Post
They do make a A4 trans brace also!
I got one but sold it ever one in the market will tell you the A4 cars really dont need one in the car. As long as you get out of the right foot in car gets into wheel hop bad. The stick cars is where ever one needs all the help dropping are slipping the left foot at high RPM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:45 PM
  #42  
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True but not everyone has a transbrake on their A4. I want a brace to keep everything lined up when I blast off.
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:24 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06 View Post
Uhh. That's not gonna happen.

He's about to find out that that's the only place the car will be effective.......except there ARE a few hondas that haven't been crushed yet. Loser gets the Pink jack stands.
if i lose my excuse is you tuned it


Originally Posted by Chris Stewart View Post
True but not everyone has a transbrake on their A4. I want a brace to keep everything lined up when I blast off.
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:22 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Chris Stewart View Post
Yeah how about a diff brace? Also, your trans needs a shift lever like this.



Here's a similar thread if you haven't seen it: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...onversion.html

I ran -6 braided lines to a big front mounted cooler. We tried an electric fan cooler in the back, but it wasn't enough to keep temps under 200.

here is the shifter i have, it looks broken
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looks nothing like yours.

here is my auto TQ tube
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:16 PM
  #45  
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Ok the shifter linkage looks right, (i dunno if its supposed to come apart like that) but I dont see a Neutral Safety Switch. Looks like you can get them a Autozone etc.

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Old 01-10-2012, 04:45 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Chris Stewart View Post
Ok the shifter linkage looks right, (i dunno if its supposed to come apart like that) but I dont see a Neutral Safety Switch. Looks like you can get them a Autozone etc.

Ya looks like im missing all the little stuff like that, anything else yall can think of post it up.

ajg1915- i might need your shifter and linkage, as mine looks broken
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:48 PM
  #47  
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Billy, did RPM mention anything about exhaust clearance issues with the deep trans pan?

Think I read that somewhere.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:02 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH View Post
Billy, did RPM mention anything about exhaust clearance issues with the deep trans pan?

Think I read that somewhere.
Nope, havent heard that.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:14 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH View Post
Billy, did RPM mention anything about exhaust clearance issues with the deep trans pan?

Think I read that somewhere.
Im running the deep RPM pan Billy do you have the front splined shaft coupler? It bolts to the flywheel
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:19 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by a/c man View Post
Im running the deep RPM pan Billy do you have the front splined shaft coupler? It bolts to the flywheel
I have this setup right here, anyone know what to tq the bolts to that hold the shaft.
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:34 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by corvette8189 View Post
I have this setup right here, anyone know what to tq the bolts to that hold the shaft.
just loose at first until you get the car good and warmed up! then just hand tight with locktite it needs room to move this is what ECS said could have made my thrust on my crank go out! But (East Texas Muscle cars) had a pilot bushing in my crankshaft! and the fact that they never balanced the eagle crankshaft! took it out!

I think GM says after running the car you should loosen and re tighten it.
they say when you loosen it you will hear a pop! like it was under pressure
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:39 PM
  #52  
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Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached. (Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.)

Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.

Raise the vehicle.

Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 130 Nm (96 lb ft).
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:42 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by a/c man View Post
just loose at first until you get the car good and warmed up! then just hand tight with locktite it needs room to move this is what ECS said could have made my thrust on my crank go out! But (East Texas Muscle cars) had a pilot bushing in my crankshaft! and the fact that they never balanced the eagle crankshaft! took it out!

I think GM says after running the car you should loosen and re tighten it.
they say when you loosen it you will hear a pop! like it was under pressure

unless im not thinking, how am i gonna tightin them once everything is put together.
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:44 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by corvette8189 View Post
unless im not thinking, how am i gonna tightin them once everything is put together.
There's only one bolt that locks the spline shaft in.

You just rotate the engine over to using a long wrench or tap the key.

Make sure tranny is in neutral.
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:47 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by ajg1915 View Post
Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached. (Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.)

Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.

Raise the vehicle.

Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 130 Nm (96 lb ft).
what about the 6 nuts that hold the hub clamp what do they go to?
Thanks guys havent messed with an auto drivetrain before.
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:50 PM
  #56  
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Hey Billy,

The flexplate replaces your flywheel. You bolt it up just like you would a flywheel.

There's a rubber cover on your bell housing that pops out that allows you access to the spline lock shaft.

Make sure use blue lock-tite on the crank bolts (6) and the spline lock.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:09 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by corvette8189 View Post
what about the 6 nuts that hold the hub clamp what do they go to?
Thanks guys havent messed with an auto drivetrain before.
So I asked RPM once... Q: What's the "torque spec for the bolts on the cone to the SFI flexplate?" A: Tight.

Being nit picky I had to use a spec. When I got near 50ft-lbs, the aluminum started distorting from the flat head bolts so I settled around 40ft-lb.

Also, I followed spec once for that hub clamp bolt and cranked it 96 ft-lb. The next time removing the torque tube, that input shaft would NOT come out. Now I go easy with max 37 ft-lb on the hub clamp. No need to smash it.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:20 PM
  #58  
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so lets get this straight
the 6 bolts that hold the cone i get them tight (can i get them tight before i put it on the car or do i have to do those too after the car is ran)
then the clamp, i tightin once the car has ran a bit. to 37-96 lb.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:47 PM
  #59  
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Yeah it's just the one bolt that gets torque after a warmup.
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:59 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by corvette8189 View Post
so lets get this straight
the 6 bolts that hold the cone i get them tight (can i get them tight before i put it on the car or do i have to do those too after the car is ran)
then the clamp, i tightin once the car has ran a bit. to 37-96 lb.
Torque Specs:

Spline Lock Assembly to Flex Plate (50 ft lbs) 1st - 25, 2nd (50)

Flex Plate to Crank Shaft (74 ft lbs), 1st -15, 2nd 35, 3rd 74

Spline Lock to input shaft (96 Ft lbs)


You should do the spline lock and flex plate in multiple stages using a star pattern just like you do when you install a tire.
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