Rodney at RPM sent me that NSS with 4 wires ready to hook up. call him and ask him to send you one ready to go.

4 wires- 2 for reverse which is the wires off that orange plug. 2 from the clutch so the car only starts in park/neutral

 

I'll go through the thread again when I'm back in the country but I don't believe it said where on the NSS they went to. I also cut the orange plug like what was said earlier in the thread for the reverse lights. I just either had a bad NSS which I doubt or had it wired wrong.

I did get the starter switch wired right. :P

 

Finally the end is coming, hopefully. I got the Earl fittings that was posted earlier in the thread to fit the stock cooler lines from the tranny -> bellhousing to the -6 fitting that was included in the cooler packaging. I called RPM on Friday about the NSS and Jeremy said he would get someone to wire one up and send it to me for FREE. If I get it this week and nothing bad happens installing everything back I should have it done Sunday when I'm off.

After I get everything back on and drive it for the first time what should I be worried/looking for tranny wise? When the stall is locking or not at a certain RPM during part throttle or WOT? Complete noob on autos.

 

Didn't I send you my tranny tune?

If so and you use it, just drive the car normal for a bit, make sure it shifts all the gears.. Converter will lock up in 4th around 52 mph. The car will drive very close to a stock automatic car or truck.. Once you verify all of the part throttle shifting is correct, ease into it hard and make sure it shifts at high rpms/wot. I'm sure it will be fine.. You may have to tailor the shift points some but, I have shift targets set at 6200, that yields 6500-6600 shifts. That should get you in the ball park.

 

I just wanted to know if I should look out for something with the stall if it should lock or unlock at certain rpms. I don't want to blow the tranny. I also bought some heat shield for the cooler lines and starter. I have to remove the passenger side header to connect the cooler lines together.

I do have the tune you sent me and would it be overkill to not have the transmission downshift at all? I will keep it from downshifting to 1st no matter what. Just trying to prolong the life of the transmission as much as possible.

 

Ofcourse you have to have the transmission downshift....That is the entire point of an auto... To up and downshift on its own... The only thing you need to know is, if youre gonna hammer it, pull it down to DRIVE and then floor it....It will figure out if it needs to stay in 3rd, shift to 2nd or even down to 1st if youre going that slow..... You just don't want to let it downshift from 4th (OD) when wide open... not to 3rd and DAMN SURE not to 2nd... That will kill it quick... And I would not let it upshift into 4th from 3rd when WOT...

I'm telling you, the tranny will act like a nearly stock auto vette or chevy truck when driving around town... I put a lot of work into tuning the part throttle up and down shift tables as well as converter lock up... The rest of the tune (line pressures etc etc) came from RPM... Basically the entire tune is how it comes from RPM for their tranny, other then I recalibrated the shift patterns and lock up to act like a normal car..

Just drive the thing for a while normal and get used to how it drives, you'll know if there is something wrong. Put your tranny cooler on there and drive it the first time with the PCS software open on your laptop so you can monitor all the vitals, especially tranny temp.

Its gonna be fine, the converter will lock up at 52 mph at a certain TP% (light throttle), it will unlock around 45 mph...Its seemless...

The car will drive great, other then the converter slip when putting some throttle in it.

 

Sounds good, thanks.

 

Got the tranny filled per the service manual. I filled the stall and cooler when installing them a few weeks ago. Going to throw it back together even though I'm missing the NSS. AJ, I did some researching and you have the 2004 NSS which was the only year they had that type for the C5.

 

You know you have to fill the transmission with the engine running right? Engine has to be running, transmission at temp, and you need to run it in each gear for a couple seconds, several times each, then leave it running with the side plug out of the trans, fill it until it starts coming back out of the side plug...Then put the plug in BEFORE YOU SHUT THE ENGINE OFF..... or else you will make a big mess...

Also, make sure the car is level on the jack stands to get the correct level in the tranny fluid.... Its a major pain in the A$$.... Especially with 3" cat back pipes that have to be removed to get the tranny plug in and out....so your pumping fluid into the tranny pan while an open exhaust is blasting you in the and burning your hands while you hold the hose in the pan and then install the plug...

I have had to do this about 4-5 times already for different reasons...and it sucks major A$$

This has to be done 100% correct or you will have tranny problems...

 

Yes, I followed the service manual which stated to run the car while adding, otherwise it wouldn't fill up correctly. I have nothing on the rear shaft so it made it quite easy to do and get level The temp got warm pretty quick with the headers open. Only down side is I could only do it for a minute at a time then plug the pan, turn off car and get out of the garage so I could breath again. Smurfing eyes burned like a ****, lol.

I also went through the gears. I'm going to make sure it's perfect and fill it again and let it drain one more time before bolting everything back up.

 

So all I need to do is remove the jack stands and it's done. I got another NSS and tried to wire it up and got it. I tried to put my front bumper back on and the cooler was in the way. I tried to remount it and it just wasn't going to work since my s/c piping was in the way. So I had to move it to the drivers side which sucked and took forever. Later I was kicking myself because I had the rear end back on and had the 4 nuts holding it in when I realized I didn't have the mufflers back on. So I had to drop it again. Then I thought I was done and had my wife pump the brakes while I was going to bleed them only to discover the two connections above the transmission were only hand tight. This was a complete nightmare as I couldn't look to see what I was doing and could only use one hand. I ended up having to cut a wrench in half to do this.


Buuuuut, PCS controller guys I have a question. I use a add-a-circuit to supply it with a 12v source and get it from the fuse box in the cabin on the passenger side. I verified this source gets no power when the key is removed too. I was under the car and the transmission was making a noise like it had power going to it (weird noise like it's running). So I removed the power to the controller and the sound went away. I verified the circuit I used and indeed it was 0v and this killed the noise from the transmission immediately when I pulled the power wire from the controller even though it had 0v going to it.

 

Well I took it out and it's not shifting out of 1st even if I manually switch it with the shifter. In the PCS program it show D as 1st.

If you use the shifter to manually put the car in 3rd or 2nd it doesn't use any anything but that shaft to put the car in that gear, correct? Only when it's in D does it need the solenoids to shift the car? Looking at the program it says Park is actually Neutral but when I go down to Reverse it says it's reverse. How does that work if Neutral separates reverse and drive? I put the shifter lever on the tranny all the way back towards the rear for Park. I'm stumped as usual.

 

Well for what it's worth I started the car and looked at the readings the PCS is seeing and it's not getting the vehicle speed. I thought I wired it up right on the PCM. I tried tapping into the same wire under the gauge cluster and still got nothing. I did hook the power up to the injector fuse with my add-a-link per Jeremy.

 

When looking at my PCS dashboard, I believe when I have it in Park, it shows Neutral on the PCS software, however when the shifter is in OD or D, the PCS dashboard will show the transmission in 1st.. obviously as you drive and it upshifts, the PCS dashboard goes 1, 2, 3, 4... Then the red TCC light lights up when the converter locks. I can't remember if the PCS dashboard shows R when the shifter is in reverse but I believe it does..... Only weird thing is the Park/neutral thing.

As for not shifting you must not be getting one of the inputs you need... When driving are you watching the PCS dashboard on your laptop? If so, are you seeing Speed/TP% on the display as you drive?

 

I see everything but speed which is why it's not shifting. I had removed the plug to the PCS and it would shift if I used the shifter but I only did that for 20 ft then put it back in the garage. Now I'm trying to verify if the wire didn't come undone at the PCM but I soldered it so I doubt it. I wished I knew if it sends out a voltage to the gauge cluster for the speed or something else so I can verify if it is sending the signal but the pcs isn't working.

 

I tapped the speedo wire at the speedo sensor on top of the diff... Although it would be hard for you to get to now...

I thought I recalled telling you to tap the wire at the sensor..

 

You could have but I might have forgot. If that's what you did and it worked then I'll try it. I can fish a small wire back there to the top of the diff to get to it.

 

So I hooked up the controller to the yellow wire off the speed sensor directly off the plug on the rear end. I had the rear end on jack stands and put it in D and the Speedo showed 10mph while the controller showed 3mph. Gotta believe something in the tune is off since I'm getting mph readings now.

 

What size are your tires? You have to have the same tire size settings in both the PCS software as you do your engine tune so the speedo in the pcs will match the speedo on the dash.

Did you drive it? Does it shift now? It should be shifting. You can just try to get both speedos to read as close as you can, however they don't have to match EXACTLY.. You can just adjust your shift points in the pcs software based on the speeds that IT is seeing.. That's all that really matters..

I believe my pcs speedo is 2 mph off from my car'a speedo at 70mph.. Not an issue..

 

Make sure I didn't send you my pcs tune for 28" tires... That will slow the pcs speedo down... I don't think I did tho.. I think I sent you the tranny tune that I run on the street which is 26.25" tire size..