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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 03:33 AM
  #421  
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It appears to be in the right spot....
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 12:19 PM
  #422  
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I moved it more vertical but not much. I'd post a pic but the weld looks like ****.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 04:48 PM
  #423  
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I used 2 rivets.... no issues so far on the ZR1
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 07:50 PM
  #424  
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Transmission should be here Monday. Hopefully I can get it back together before I go to work Tuesday evening. As Bart Scott would say, CAN'T WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 05:45 PM
  #425  
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Whelp, didn't get the diff plate. Have it ordered through the dealer along with the NS switch. I have the stock cooler lines from the transmission to bellhousing then also from the bellhousing to the radiator. I don't know if it's feasible to use both of them and route it to my cooler on the passenger side in front of the tire. Which fittings do I need to hook it up from the external cooler to the stock lines?

1/4" to -6AN or -6AN to 5/8" or something else?

In a auto vette are the lines above the tunnel or below it?

Do you fill the transmission up through the drain plug?

I have the transmission bolted to the TT and I filled the stall before installing it. Is there supposed to be a gap from the TT plate to the stall (this is the plate that bolts up to the stall with 3 bolts)? I have about a 1/4" gap.

Last edited by danieloneil01; Apr 28, 2014 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:12 PM
  #426  
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Hoping one of you guys can help me figure this easy stuff out. I'm going to be using the stock hard lines. There's 2 sections that I have. One goes from the transmission to bellhousing. The other section goes from the bellhousing to the radiator.

The second picture is what I got from RPM to use but I don't need to use it. You simply slide the rubber hose they provided on the fitting then you tighten it down which locks the hose in.

What is the fitting size that I need to connect my cooler hose to the stock cooler line? I would like to have the fitting RPM provided but without the bend. Or should I use a steel braided hose from the bellhousing to the cooler and just get rid of the rubber hose and stock lines from the bellhousing to the radiator?


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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:26 PM
  #427  
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On my car, I got a couple fittings from Summit that adapt AN to the OEM trans lines - Russell 640610. I made the switch at the bell housing junction, but you don't have to.

The lines use clamps (2) that hold the trans lines up near the TT - above the tunnel plate.

Fill the trans through the drain plug. run till hot, switching from gear to gear. Fill again while engine is running. there is a write up about it on here somewhere - likely C5 tech.
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:34 PM
  #428  
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This is the gap but I'm assuming it's normal and it's not that big of a gap.


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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:38 PM
  #429  
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Originally Posted by Capthuff
On my car, I got a couple fittings from Summit that adapt AN to the OEM trans lines - Russell 640610. I made the switch at the bell housing junction, but you don't have to.

The lines use clamps (2) that hold the trans lines up near the TT - above the tunnel plate.

Fill the trans through the drain plug. run till hot, switching from gear to gear. Fill again while engine is running. there is a write up about it on here somewhere - likely C5 tech.

I'm not going to use the clamps as it's impossible to get a drill up there. Unless I try to go from the inside of the car which I might do. I have plenty of push in pins that I could use. I'll go ahead and buy 2 of those fittings then. What did you use at that fitting to the cooler?
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:53 PM
  #430  
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What is this called?



I'll buy a straight piece and connect it to that russell fitting.

This work?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-639213/overview/
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 08:31 PM
  #431  
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Originally Posted by danieloneil01
This is the gap but I'm assuming it's normal and it's not that big of a gap.


That gap is perfect.. About 1/8" is what you want before you pull it forward into the drive plate.

The tranny lines will be up in the trans tunnel attached to the torque tube with little brackets. I wouldn't even use the factory rubber hoses.. I'd do like captuff said and adapt them to an fittings and use stainless -6an hose to feed the cooler.
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 08:39 PM
  #432  
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Okay, I'll hit up a local hydraulic place and see about getting (2) 5 ft of -6 steel braided hoses. I'll see if Clear Lake speed has that fitting in stock, if not I'll order it from summit.

Last edited by danieloneil01; Apr 28, 2014 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 10:45 AM
  #433  
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Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
Ok the shifter linkage looks right, (i dunno if its supposed to come apart like that) but I dont see a Neutral Safety Switch. Looks like you can get them a Autozone etc.

So, do I need to also get the plug so I can wire my two NSS wires? I also need to get a shifter bracket that goes on the gear selector shaft as I don't have one of those either.
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 11:22 AM
  #434  
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I have a repair manual on order through Gene which is on backorder. Can anyone tell me which 2 wires are for the NSS on this plug?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...itch+connector
At that price I may just break the plastic housing and solder the wires directly.

Last edited by danieloneil01; Apr 29, 2014 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 12:31 PM
  #435  
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Dealer got the NSS and diff plate. Get home and start putting the plate on and it already has one, lol. While I was there I ordered a gear shifter lever that mounts to transmission and another double sided bolt for the shifter cable bracket as I only have one.
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 08:17 PM
  #436  
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Which one is it?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1355626546

or

http://ls1tech.com/forums/16299640-post4.html

Where does the purple and yellow wires go? Also the wire harness that went to the manual probably had the reverse light wires? If so which ones are they?
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:01 AM
  #437  
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Paid 3 days for acdelco site which has all the wiring schematics for all cars. Going to try to find all my wiring woes. Just read this thread again post by post and just need to extend the 2 wires from the clutch for the NS and cut the orange connector off the manual harness and tie them all in to the NSS.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 07:26 AM
  #438  
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The purple and yellow wires are for the neutral safety switch so that you can't start the car in gear. You should be able to pick up the other ends in the engine compartment and hook them up to the tranny harness. You'll need to buy a few end pins to make some leads.

Originally Posted by danieloneil01
Which one is it?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1355626546

or

http://ls1tech.com/forums/16299640-post4.html

Where does the purple and yellow wires go? Also the wire harness that went to the manual probably had the reverse light wires? If so which ones are they?
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #439  
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I got that but I also need the reverse light wires. So I believe I need a total of just 4 wires to the neutral safety switch. I think I found the reverse lights and they're brown and gray which went to the manual transmission. I'm trying to find where they go exactly on the connector.


for the neutral safety switch the purple and yellow wires go to C and D based on the connector on the right? What about F?




Here's the clutch pedal safety switch

Last edited by danieloneil01; Apr 30, 2014 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 11:21 AM
  #440  
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Here's the other connector on the NSS I believe. I'm trying to find what the alpha means at the end.


Last edited by danieloneil01; Apr 30, 2014 at 03:53 PM.
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