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First of all thank you for the write up on this install.
I had purchased a modified c6 short shift kit from TPS motor sports and had it installed last week on my C5.
Couldn't be any happier with this mod. Not only are the shifts shorter but each shift is buttery smooth with no extra effort because the stick is shorter.
If I tap the pin back in gently, will that reset it to the neutral position?
I left the car in neutral, unscrewed the entire shifter, plopped the new one in, lined up the groover on the shifter coupling, screwed it in, made sure the black rectangle grommet was in it's groove, then put the two torx screws in.
But as far left as it goes is third and fourth, and fourth is very hard to get into.
As a final wrap-up to this thread, I thought I'd answer the last couple questions pending.
As far as the leather color of the ****, it's just a half-shade different than my stock leather but I'd expect that since they're not matched hides. My Hurst **** is futher off my stock leather and it's not at all noticeable in the context of the interior due to how dark it normally is in the cockpit. It takes the camera flash to be able to see the mismatch. Here's the C6 **** next to my steering wheel. The **** is slightly lighter than my wheel leather and has a hint of brown in it when viewed closely in natural light.
Here's the C6 **** laying on my Vette Essentials short boot which matches my interior very closely.
And, here it is compared to my Hurst ****. Notice how similar they are. I modified and installed this **** long before the C6 was released and knew I had the right-feeling **** for me the day I installed it. I was pleasantly surprised when I first saw the C6 **** since it was so similar to my preference. This test confirmed I like this shape best.
Finally, I thought a shot of all three, the Hurst, The C6 and the stock C5 shifters side-by-side would be interesting. I measured the C6 shaft and it is ~.575" in diameter while the C5 shifter is a 9/16"-18 thread, which is slightly smaller (.5625" nominal). The C6 **** bore is ~.610" in diameter. The C6 shifter is 1.00" shorter than the stock C5 shifter.
Once again, thanks to Ralph for having this shifter sent to me to test. Ralph, the C6 shifter is repacked and ready to ship on Monday. You should receive it this week. I'm sending the modified rubber plug just in case you need it. Enjoy!
Please excuse my ignorance but will the stock shift **** from the C5 fit the C6 shifter (center picture, don't see any threads on this shifter, just a notch) and if I am going to change to this shifter should I have a new gasket between it and the shifter box.
Where should I buy this gasket. I already have this C6 shifter (long story)
Thank you
Last edited by bontrager; Feb 12, 2013 at 09:43 AM.
Reason: added comments
Please excuse my ignorance but will the stock shift **** from the C5 fit the C6 shifter (center picture, don't see any threads on this shifter, just a notch) and if I am going to change to this shifter should I have a new gasket between it and the shifter box.
Where should I buy this gasket. I already have this C6 shifter (long story)
Thank you
C5 **** will not fit the C6 shifter shaft - get a C6 **** from Gene Culley or an aftermartket **** for the C6. You will not need a new gasket if yours is not damaged. I have made my own in the past from thin rubber or neoprene or used gasket maker in a tube.
Thank you all for the information on the write up. Really easy for the install thanks to Patches and others.
I did notice after installing a new c6 shifter and **** that the shifter would stay in neutral between 1-2, 3-4, or 5-6 and not center back to normal between 3-4. Centering tension of shifter back to neutral between 3-4 was fine before install with stock c5 shifter.
Perhaps I need grease as someone else has pointed out?
Thinking of attacking this in the next week or so along with the ac display resodder fix.
This is a great writeup I plan to use. Thanks!
Friend gave me this shifter. Looks like I am missing part of the base. But I noticed the base looks identical to the C5. Can I use the C5 base or is the C6 different?
From: Longmont on the Front Range of Colorful Colorado
Yes you can use the same box (base). It has a couple of rubber grommets that may be old and hard. You can replace those also if they have started to wear or deteriorate. The C5Z06 did not have the grommets on the box, but the C6Z does and it is an improvement (IMHO).
I put a C6 shifter in my old '99 vert and used the original box. I replaced the box in my Z with a newer box with the grommets and it did reduce the vibration from the transmission.
I really like the C6Z shifter, but I am not a competition driver.
Last edited by Rickster1; Mar 23, 2014 at 01:58 PM.
Reason: spelling
I put my isolator back on and noticed my rubber plug wouldn't fit over the larger shaft.
[/QUOTE]
Patches...great writeup and thanks for taking the time.
I am wanting to do the same swap in my C5. I already have the C6 shift **** and like it a lot, but on the C5 shaft it seems to be too high?
Question and concern for you: The rubber isolator boot..why did it not fit over the C6 shaft? Was this isolator boot from the C5 or C6 shifter? Now if we need that other 2" rubber isolator boot and do not have a extra from a Hurst kit..where do we go to find it?
I followed everything to said and did closely, but I got confused on the rubber isolator boot and that part is critical in keep the noise down as you know.
Yes you can use the same box (base). It has a couple of rubber grommets that may be old and hard. You can replace those also if they have started to wear or deteriorate. The C5Z06 did not have the grommets on the box, but the C6Z does and it is an improvement (IMHO).
I put a C6 shifter in my old '99 vert and used the original box. I replaced the box in my Z with a newer box with the grommets and it did reduce the vibration from the transmission.
I really like the C6Z shifter, but I am not a competition driver.
Thank you Rickster. I've had a new shift boot for over a year that is specifically made for the C5 to C6 shifter replacement. Now that the ac display is too dim to read and I'm going to be pulling off the center console I figured I might as well tackle them both.
I put my isolator back on and noticed my rubber plug wouldn't fit over the larger shaft.
Patches...great writeup and thanks for taking the time.
I am wanting to do the same swap in my C5. I already have the C6 shift **** and like it a lot, but on the C5 shaft it seems to be too high?
Question and concern for you: The rubber isolator boot..why did it not fit over the C6 shaft? Was this isolator boot from the C5 or C6 shifter? Now if we need that other 2" rubber isolator boot and do not have a extra from a Hurst kit..where do we go to find it?
I followed everything to said and did closely, but I got confused on the rubber isolator boot and that part is critical in keep the noise down as you know.
Thanks[/QUOTE]
Holy resurrected ancient threads, Batman!
That isolator was an extra plumbing cap I bought at Home Depot and cut a hole for the shifter shaft in. The new shifter needed a bigger hole cut in it for clearance - that's all I meant.
hey Patches..or anybody really. If I wanted to shorten the C6 shifter by about .5-.75" how would you recommend going about it and still be able to retain the stock C6 ****? I know tricky huh. From what I can see, I have 2 options.
1.) Try cutting the top off by about .4" and then drill/tap a new hole in the base for where the T40 bolt goes in. Though this would only give me at most around .4" shortening.
2.) Try removing the shifter from the internal rod and make an attempt to push the entire thing down further? I dunno never seen a C6 shifter cut open to reveal its guts...only seen it done on a C5 shifter.