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Here is what I did on my boot. First, turn it inside out and then where it is folded over and glued you need to separate the pieces. I used some needle nose lock pliers to remove all traces of the glue from the factory. Then, I got a large o-ring that fits the groove in the new shift ****. Push the **** into the inside out boot and put the o-ring where the groove is to capture the boot onto the ****. Next, put the boot and **** onto the shifter. Lift the boot and sneak in the screw. I couldn't get the leather out from under the washer so I just tightened against the leather. Then pull the boot down and put into place in the console and pull the boot down so it fits the **** correctly and looks like it should.
I just received my C6 shifter and thought I would reread this thread. At one point in Patches great write up he decribed my driving exactly. I use my vert to commute occasionally and if you've ever been in the Washington, DC area you know we like to driver real slow and stop often during rush hour.
Installed a B&M Ripper about 2 months ago. It's a great shifter. I love the notchy/positive feeling and the very short throw. Unfortunately I've got an old wrist injury that acts up every now and then (like now) and combined with traffic it's not practical for me.
I think the C6 shifter is going be a reasonable trade off.
What I really wanted to say here was what a great service Patches did with his in-depth write up of the C6 shifter.
Installed my shifter last night. First off, great service from Bob -- shifter arrived quick and in perfect condition. Great writeup from Patches too. I installed a short shifter in my Z and this was easier. The only problem I had was not having Torx size 40 to unscrew the last big screws. Grrr. I only had up to 30. [Is it soo hard for Chevy to just make all the screws phillips and the bolts all the same size?] I had to make a late night run to Home Depot, so the install ended up taking longer than I planned -- about 2 hours total.
It looks and feels sooooo much better than the stock shifter. Haven't done any driving in it yet, but I will this weekend. I also had problems with the stock boot, but since I'm ordering a new set of boots, I didn't really care too much. If you hate the stock shifter as much as I do, then this mod is definitely worth it. The leather is a tiny bit off from the black, but maybe some Lexol will help...
I went into the local chevy dealorship a couple months ago and sat in a new C6 and new that the shifter was a must. I'm looking forward to driving the car to work tomorrow. I guess I look forward to driving it to work everyday though.
After successfully installing the C6 shifter in my 2004 vert, I helped a local member install his on a 1999 Vert.
We ran into a problem where the shifter mount on the bottom, allowed the assembly to shift about 3/4 of an inch from front to back. We originally had it located at the front position, but the shifts were not staying in gear. Once we saw where the original "screws" mounted on the the original shifter, we mounted the new shifter in the same location.
That goes through a hole at the bottom of the shifter **** and threads into the shaft. It anchors the **** on to the shaft. Yo can se the hole in the shaft, the hole in the tab on the base of the **** and the screw in this pic.
I was expecting a $3 "bolt" to mean something larger. All my questions are answered for now. I hope to have the C6 shifter in this weekend with help of mechanic/son (rather with me helping).
This forum is great! I read every C5 post before buying my '02 convertible (5K mi) from Rogers 2 weeks ago. Still have to get the CLB and ...
Ok!! I installed my C6 Shifter just now, took her for a spinm and WOW, major improvement over stock.. I drove a Z with the hurst, and like dit alot, but I'm sittin in Houston Rush hour for 3hrs of the day, and let me say again, WOW.. I love this thing, very easy install (THANKX PATCHES)
Am I correct that you place the transmission in Neutral before the swap? I remember one of the aftermarket shifter installation directions had you place trans in 4th. I realize that C6 swap is the whole assembly and would be different.
Also, there was a post a day or two ago about a CF member having shifting problems after making the C6 swap but can't find it today. Any additional caveats?
Thanks,
DBD
dunbindun(tov)
St Marys GA
'02 triple black
Am I correct that you place the transmission in Neutral before the swap? I remember one of the aftermarket shifter installation directions had you place trans in 4th. I realize that C6 swap is the whole assembly and would be different.
Also, there was a post a day or two ago about a CF member having shifting problems after making the C6 swap but can't find it today. Any additional caveats?
Thanks,
DBD
dunbindun(tov)
St Marys GA
'02 triple black
Yes, keep it in neutral. That's where the new shifter is locked by the
right angle pin in the front. (Pin needs to be lifted up after install)
Before removing the old shifter, make a mark on the linkage
to locate how far it slides on. But this probably isn't necessary as
the bolt on the linkage will center itself on the shaft.
Also note where the mounting bolts are in relation to the elongated
mounting holes are on the shifter base. It allows fo a slight adjustment
if needed.
This is really a no-brainer. (Sorry to dig up a "Nineties" term).
George is correct. The only thing that I can add is that the bolt that clamps onto the shaft, needs to go thru the groove on the shifter shaft. Another member had an issue when the clamp was too far back, behind the shaft, so there was only friction to provide the "twist" left and right in the shift pattern.
Also, before you re-assemble the console, start the car and run thru the gears to make sure that forward to back adjustment on the assembly (2 Torx 40 screws) is correct, and remember to pull the pin.
Best of luck, it is a great mod to the driving experience.
You can grease the rod and work it through its range of motion. Also, make sure you grease the pivot ball inside of the base if the action is sticky. Make sure you engage the neutral lock pin before pulling the shaft out of the housing first.
You can grease the rod and work it through its range of motion. Also, make sure you grease the pivot ball inside of the base if the action is sticky. Make sure you engage the neutral lock pin before pulling the shaft out of the housing first.
...yep and it looks like the pros still know the drill...