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Hey RF nice work for sure!I was looking at the connectors you used. I have something very simular from autolumination but they dont have the center yellow wire as your does. Where did you get those and what purpose does the center wire serve?Power for another circuit?
Knowing him... he made em!
Tom did you get my fix above for testing the Radio Display board?
I also wish they would quit changing the colors of the wires on the connectors! I keep having to change my instructions.NOt too many scources for these as far as I know.
Have it read "Black to Black and Red to the other wire!"
Tom did you get my fix above for testing the Radio Display board?
Tim
I did note that post! I have a couple spare radio's [cassette units] that I need to move.Time to get back to the radio stuff again! I've got all the plugs that connect the radio just havent played with them.
Anyone need a new led radio w/cassette ???
I did note that post! I have a couple spare radio's [cassette units] that I need to move.Time to get back to the radio stuff again! I've got all the plugs that connect the radio just havent played with them.
Anyone need a new led radio w/cassette ???
If you use pure (aka "cool white") LEDs for the HVAC controls, the blue tint in the buttons will give it an "aqua" color. (I call it a fruity blue) I'm working on a solution involving using "warm white" LEDs. the output from them is closer to a regular bulb and it should come out a pure white through the buttons.
OK sorry this is so late in coming. After some research and ordering here's what I've come up with so far;
Normal LED on the Left, Radio Shack LED in the middle and a "Warm White" LED on the Right!
As I thought the yellower LED creates a whiter appearence on the buttons. I learned about the Radio Shack LED P/N 276-0017 in a Flashlight Forum of all places!
I think the warm white looks awesome.
Tstar: what are the specs on those bulbs? (forward voltage, current?)
Regarding my interior LED install the other day, I will be installing 10 ohm 1/2w resistors after losing my passenger foot well lights when i opened the door with the car running this morning. Cold weather boosts my voltage from a normal 13.8 to 14.4 and it blew those LEDs. Fortunately, the others appear to be fine.
I like the different shades of blue together. Makes me wonder how the radio would look with the different shades used for different button/function groups.
I think the warm white looks awesome.
Tstar: what are the specs on those bulbs? (forward voltage, current?)
Regarding my interior LED install the other day, I will be installing 10 ohm 1/2w resistors after losing my passenger foot well lights when i opened the door with the car running this morning. Cold weather boosts my voltage from a normal 13.8 to 14.4 and it blew those LEDs. Fortunately, the others appear to be fine.
I got the Warm White LEDs from www.c-leds.com, here's the specs;
13,000 mcd (Yeah I know!!!!!!)
operating voltage - 3.2 - 3.4 volts
Max Current - 30mA
I like the different shades of blue together. Makes me wonder how the radio would look with the different shades used for different button/function groups.
good stuff...
Mele Kalikimaka, all!!
Hmmm Yeah this brings up some interestng possibilities, there's already alot you can do with varying the resistance values and now this!
I like the center one best! What mcd rating are those from radio shack??I've never been able to find strong leds at the store near me.I've got these color changing leds that I might play with in an old hvac unit.Talk about colors! I think it would look wild but dont know if I would want it in my car!
I'm not sure Tom, I got a tip on em in a flashlight Forum although they weren't as incadescent looking as they indicated. You could probably research em on the net here.... hell hang on;
I used the same LEDs as in the HVAC and Radio with 470 Ohm resistors, I don't really think the mcd rating matters as match as getting them all to look even. As you cans see I've never been able to get the "Door Locks" on the Driver's switch perfect... but in reality you can't really notice it with your eyes.
The trick on the Door switches is varying the depth of the LED and the angle for each LED location, Trial and error... I use an LED hooked up to a Battery to find the optimum position for each location. I then solder the LED/resistor directly unto the PCBs.