NEW Interior LED Mod Thread
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 482
From: Brea CA
...
The only place that seems to not light up so well is the traction control. Has anyone figured out a way of improving the lighting in that which doesn't involve hacking it apart or soldering lights directly to the board? Reflective materials perhaps?
Also, JW / Tim, I really dig the under-door lighting for when the doors are open, but I'm none too hot on just slapping a strip of LEDs under the door. Have either of you looked into a directed lighting setup that would replace the butt-ugly red reflector that's factory installed with some kind of directed lighting setup? I know I've seen some mods that put a light behind it, but I'd sooner be rid of that thing with some hidden lighting behind a panel.
The only place that seems to not light up so well is the traction control. Has anyone figured out a way of improving the lighting in that which doesn't involve hacking it apart or soldering lights directly to the board? Reflective materials perhaps?
Also, JW / Tim, I really dig the under-door lighting for when the doors are open, but I'm none too hot on just slapping a strip of LEDs under the door. Have either of you looked into a directed lighting setup that would replace the butt-ugly red reflector that's factory installed with some kind of directed lighting setup? I know I've seen some mods that put a light behind it, but I'd sooner be rid of that thing with some hidden lighting behind a panel.
Yeah there's ALOT of info in here, just takes some time decyphering it.... pun intended! 
The Traction Plate is a real problem with LEDs... I've found it best to remove the wave guide and insert a 3mm LED into the back of the Traction Button by drilling a hole in the back of it. I think that procedure is in here. Gary came up with a way to solder a LED in with longer leads and having it extended below the PCB and aimed right at the back of the button, this works well for bright LEDs like Blue and White...
You can try to wrap the wave giude with a reflective material like mylar or aluminum foil like in the Radio. I use metal duct tape in the Radio... Do you have Selective Ride?
Tim
The Traction Plate is a real problem with LEDs... I've found it best to remove the wave guide and insert a 3mm LED into the back of the Traction Button by drilling a hole in the back of it. I think that procedure is in here. Gary came up with a way to solder a LED in with longer leads and having it extended below the PCB and aimed right at the back of the button, this works well for bright LEDs like Blue and White...
You can try to wrap the wave giude with a reflective material like mylar or aluminum foil like in the Radio. I use metal duct tape in the Radio... Do you have Selective Ride?
Tim
Flaagn, like Tim said, I have posted pics of how I modify the AH/TC button. It involves removing the light guide and positioning an LED right behind the button soldered to the circuit board.
I have done a set of door reflectors also. There is a bit of room behind them in the center not much on the sides. The only place to power these is from the foot well lights.
Gary
CF "Young" Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,034
Likes: 26
From: Cupertino CA
St. Jude Donor '12
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I'm marking this one for future reference. Great info! Thanks
__________________________
License Plate Replacement Bulb LED kit
__________________________
License Plate Replacement Bulb LED kit
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 92
Likes: 1
From: Downers Grove IL
Anybody ever have all the LED's in the radio work and then the #4 preset button went out so i tapped the faceplate and then all the lights went out and remain out, but the radio still works and functions, and i removed a bulb and out it to a 9volt battery, and its good, so the bulbs aren't blown, anyone got any ideas, did i fry something or blow a fuse
please help
please help
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Anybody ever have all the LED's in the radio work and then the #4 preset button went out so i tapped the faceplate and then all the lights went out and remain out, but the radio still works and functions, and i removed a bulb and out it to a 9volt battery, and its good, so the bulbs aren't blown, anyone got any ideas, did i fry something or blow a fuse
please help
please help
Tim
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 92
Likes: 1
From: Downers Grove IL
oh ok, fraction threw me off, yum i just checked them all by removing from the board and putting on a 9v battery, and the 1-4 bulb was shorted out, all others worked, so i replaced that bulb and plugged everything back in, and still nothing. Any ideas
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I sent ya a PM with some ideas...
I haven't had a Radio short out so I really don't exactly what could've happened to the lighting circuit. Scan the display board with a magnifying glass... the Red harness has the lighting circuits on it so follow it back to the mother board and again look very closely for any burnt tracks or components...
Tim
I haven't had a Radio short out so I really don't exactly what could've happened to the lighting circuit. Scan the display board with a magnifying glass... the Red harness has the lighting circuits on it so follow it back to the mother board and again look very closely for any burnt tracks or components...
Tim
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 2
From: San Clemente CA
Found this thread on the suggestion of Mcgilles. Can someone tell me which pins in the trunk switch get energized for popping the trunk? When I removed my switch, it fell apart, and whatever makes contact with the circuit board when you push the button got lost. Feel free to respond to this thread if you don't want to clutter this one! Thanks for any help that can be offered. 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...itch-help.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...itch-help.html
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 21
From: Miami Fl
The coating that makes it look green when you put a white led can be eliminated by rubbing the plastic on a q tip against the graphics with some alcohol until the blue coating disappears. I added a whole led strip with about 30 leds along the top. Bad part is that i cracked the thin display trying to seperate it from the plastic. Any of you have a front cluster you want to "give away to experiment on"
ENJOY THE PICS TODAY I SHOULD BE FINISHING UP AN POSTING FINAL PICS WITH MY CRACKED WHITE CLUSTER.
ENJOY THE PICS TODAY I SHOULD BE FINISHING UP AN POSTING FINAL PICS WITH MY CRACKED WHITE CLUSTER.
Last edited by Rconce01; Aug 20, 2010 at 12:03 PM. Reason: image links
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
So you removed the "cosmetic" layer of the faceplate right? Good job trying the rubbing alcohol! 
I've had alot of the Manual HVACs that had the cosmetic faceplate seperating in several locations, almost everyone of them actually... Hopefully someone will front you a faceplate...
Placing the entire faceplate and the buttons in hot water sometimes will loosen it up enabling the cosmetic layer to seperate cleanly. I've had this happen with the Dual Zones also. Getting it re-glued nicely is another story! How are you re-gluing yours back on and have you messed with the four buttons?
Tim
I've had alot of the Manual HVACs that had the cosmetic faceplate seperating in several locations, almost everyone of them actually... Hopefully someone will front you a faceplate...
Placing the entire faceplate and the buttons in hot water sometimes will loosen it up enabling the cosmetic layer to seperate cleanly. I've had this happen with the Dual Zones also. Getting it re-glued nicely is another story! How are you re-gluing yours back on and have you messed with the four buttons?
Tim
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 21
From: Miami Fl
Hmm hot water, never trying that. I think that will mess up the glue. AFTER I messed up and cracked it i fiigured out where it went wrong. If you get a blow dryer and heated it up it almost comes off on its own, and the glue stays sticky so it practically sticks back on. If you really want to stick it back on good i used my spray mount from my architecture classes. It's 3M super 77 multipurpose adhesive. just mist it lightly on both parts wait 1 minute or two and reassemble. Pretty much it contact cement in a spray form.
I didn't mess with the buttons the blue film is too far in and its protected by a heavy white clear layer. I'm doing those led's individually and in blue.
The dam thing cracked from the little fan symbol across the 2 and the 3 all the way to the top where the blue and red overlap! Its driving me nuts!
I didn't mess with the buttons the blue film is too far in and its protected by a heavy white clear layer. I'm doing those led's individually and in blue.
The dam thing cracked from the little fan symbol across the 2 and the 3 all the way to the top where the blue and red overlap! Its driving me nuts!
So you removed the "cosmetic" layer of the faceplate right? Good job trying the rubbing alcohol!
I've had alot of the Manual HVACs that had the cosmetic faceplate seperating in several locations, almost everyone of them actually... Hopefully someone will front you a faceplate...
Placing the entire faceplate and the buttons in hot water sometimes will loosen it up enabling the cosmetic layer to seperate cleanly. I've had this happen with the Dual Zones also. Getting it re-glued nicely is another story! How are you re-gluing yours back on and have you messed with the four buttons?
Tim
I've had alot of the Manual HVACs that had the cosmetic faceplate seperating in several locations, almost everyone of them actually... Hopefully someone will front you a faceplate...
Placing the entire faceplate and the buttons in hot water sometimes will loosen it up enabling the cosmetic layer to seperate cleanly. I've had this happen with the Dual Zones also. Getting it re-glued nicely is another story! How are you re-gluing yours back on and have you messed with the four buttons?
Tim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The water has never seemed to dissolve the glue or anything... that I noticed anyway. Heat gun is a good idea too!
You would have to remove the cosmetic layer on the buttons also, same procedure as removing the faceplate...
I'll try the 3M Super 77 next time I come across it.
Thanks, good info!!!!
Tim
You would have to remove the cosmetic layer on the buttons also, same procedure as removing the faceplate...
I'll try the 3M Super 77 next time I come across it.
Thanks, good info!!!!
Tim
