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Tonight we installed the boost a pump. This increases the power supply to the stock in tank fuel pump to increase fuel pressure needed for the 60# injectors. It has to be wired into the under hood fuse panel. It required cutting a gray wire from the underside of the fuse panel and splicing and soldering in between the cut gray wire the 2 power wires for the BAP. It is essential that the fused red wire is attached to the gray wire coming from the fuse panel and the unfused red wire get attached to the line closest to the engine compartment. One ground wire to frame . One RF cable that runs into the cockpit to control the fuel boost. And one pressure activated switch that is hooked to a vacum line from the supercharger.
Here it is installed sounds involved but really straight foward. Directions were great. PS. soldering wires is the only way to go and srink wrap makes for a professional water tight finish . You must know how to do it for this install
So the boost a pump has 5 wires coming from it------and they are now installed
Where exactly did you mount your BAP? I can't quite tell from this picture
Well no trip today got tied up at the dentist then wife said I had to go to dinner at 6:00 pm. So will leave early tomorrow and will post pics tommorrow night. Here is the BAP , IT IS in front of the battery and next to the fuse panel , It's red in the pic. I backed out one screw so you could see where it mounts Sad Brian
Well it off to VA Speed . I hope Shawn is up to this ad.
Master engine builder, Shawn Miller, just about lives in the build room or on the dyno (we think it's because the build room is climate controlled). Parts only enter the build room after they have been inspected, machined, washed, checked and rewashed. Another sign of a great builder is when you open the oil filter after break in and you find no metal, no lint, no pieces of rtv etc. Just clean oil and assembly lube. Shawn has built everything from 2800 hp twin turbo small blocks to high performance diesel engines.
Well my father inlaw and I started aT 7:00 AM FOR THE DRIVE. He is an old motor head/ retired airforce mechanic that has RA so bad that his hands are deformed and he is unable to move his knees. He is wheelchair bound physically but his mind is sharp and he flies high when we talk speed and cars. He came along for the trip. He rides well, ask for very little, and no bathroom stops.
Unloaded motor and unwrapped it. Looks clean and you can tell Shawn paid alot of attention to detail. Motor turns very freely and I have to admit the head studs while 260.00 bucks compare to the ARP 149.00 bolts that I already had are well worth the money. STUDS ARE THE WAY....in any build but essential for boost. My heads had to be milled .010 so he picked a 9cc dish pistons and Phil T. hooked me up with some awsome howard billet rods. I also had ARP main studs installed. I noticed that the ARP kit did not include the bolts that bolt thru the side of the block into the main caps. I was a little bumbed about that but live and learn
I want to try to build as much as I can prior to installing the motor. So tonight I started. Followed instructions in the manual and you must make sure you install knock sensors(yellow wire to right), the cAMSHAFT POSITION sensor( black flat plug in the middle ) and the oil pressure sending unit ( brass base to the left)prior to sitting the manifold on the motor. If not you will do it again. The oil pressure sensory is a bear even with this much access. I can't imagine it be changed in the car. I understand why people relocated this bugger....... had to stop tonight as you need an inch pound torque wrench that goes down to 44 inch lbs and mine starts at 120 so to bed I go......
I've really enjoyed your writeups and updates in this thread!! I can't wait to see and read the final results.
, I loved reading about the grond chronicles but there hasn't been much activity on that front lately so your thread is something that I look forward to reading before I go to bed.
, I loved reading about the grond chronicles but there hasn't been much activity on that front lately so your thread is something that I look forward to reading before I go to bed.
Great write-up buddy! I was touched by the pics and story about your F-I-L.
Well last night I left of installing the intercooler manifold. Got my torque wrench capable of 44 inch pounds and torqued the manifold. Piece of cake. 10 easy hex bolts.
Next was the twin screw. I really give credit to those that install this in the car. As it was a job for me standing above the motor.There are 7 hex nut bolts that must be torqued properly. The problem a regular 3/8 drive hex socket hits the side of the blower and this is a great opportunity to strip the heads. What you need is a 8 inch hex wrench that is attached to a socket. You can see these in this pictures next to the supercharger
Last edited by brian vette; Dec 3, 2008 at 06:05 PM.
You start all 3 bolts and install very loose then you tighten the collar around the supercharger then torque the 3 bolts to 37 ft lbs. I pray I don't have any alignment issues but it looks good
The collar is squeezed around supercharger by tightening the hex bolt on top of the bracket . You can see the hex nut next to the back spacer that helps align the supercharger. The early issue of the supercharger had a spacer that aligned that bracket then it was removed. The instruction book has a supplement concerning this change. I guess everyone had problems with that so now the spacer (back piece) is left on. The fuel lines were installed and this was easy off the car. On the car holy crap!!!!! Those things are easy to start crooked!!!!!
Last edited by brian vette; Dec 3, 2008 at 10:03 PM.