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Hey anybody out there got any aftermarket valve covers the want to sell ???? I just cant understand why anything decent for our motors is 300-500 bucks for the LT motors nice stuff for 125-150 what the :":!!!}}}!!!!?????
Just don't buy any really tall ones. They will not fit under the intake tube and Throttlebody. My old C5R's barely clear.
Well they were C5R's but I had the Corvette C5R logo milled off and polished. Got them used off of somebody else like 7 years ago. So I have no idea where to get them now.
The drivers side is easy the pack fits beneath the washer fluid tank. You need to buy coil pack extension wire for 50 bucks from caspers but it is real easy to relocate this side.
The passenger side is a pain while you don't need a coil pack extension harness as the wire will reach from the back of the firewall area but you do need to make a bracket that keeps the coils closer to together
Last edited by brian vette; Nov 16, 2008 at 12:00 AM.
Well the C5 belt tensioner is not the way to go with this build....I have been told , so I ordered a C6 tensioner from Gene Culley who shipped it right away as always. 72 bucks later it arrived. Well I have to tell you it is much more stout piece. The pulley looks like it has a larger diameter but it is not . It just looks bigger because it has much larger side walls to keep the belt from jumping the track. The tension needed to more it forward ( like when you put the belt on) is 3-4 times as much force compared to the C5. I could almost move the C5 without a wrench. No way with the C6 !!! So I think it was great advice from Jeff G. at Total Performance/ American HP . Saving my funds for a 8 rib set up so the money needed to complete keeps building. Should be getting the motor back from VA Speed soon. Spoke with Shawn Miller said it is going to be perfect. Then the build will really take off. Sorry blurry pics
Why the heck do LS1 valve covers cost 250-500 bucks. So here is my plan. Cut of the stubs that hold the coil brackets. Bondo the surface and finish then get chromed for 125.00 bucks. Here is the start of the plan
Yelp it the only way that they learn to turn a wrench. It beats the heck out of playing XBOX, PS3. ect........ They can still text message faster than I can think but at least they know the difference between a rod and a piston.
Yelp it the only way that they learn to turn a wrench. It beats the heck out of playing XBOX, PS3. ect........ They can still text message faster than I can think but at least they know the difference between a rod and a piston.
Its up to you,but before you install your S/C'er you might want to relocate you sensor to the drivers side front of the block,if you don't and it goes out you will have to pull the whole thing off,its real easy to do.JMHO
There was some how to's,but I'm not sure how to find them,or you can get in contact with jeff at total Performance,he know's how to do it and could probably help better than I could,I did mine and it was easy.
The plastic resevoir that holds the power steering fluid must be relocated to the other side ( passenger) side of the water pump. This is done with a metal bracket that is bolted to the back of longer bolts (supplied) that holds my new C6 tensioner in place. An extension tube is used to extend the stock tube that goes to the power steering head unit. It looks like this when installed
Notice how the nice 25.00 chrome cover that use to face the passenger side fender now faces the front of the car so it is not really visable.......rats !!!!